383 build
hey guys. So I'm asking about a 383 stroker I'm building from an ls1.this is my first build. I was wondering how the stock heads and intake performed on the 383? I'm aiming for 500 hp st the crank. Any input would be helpful.
You can hit 500hp at the crank with the 346, thats about 440rwhp.
With the 3.9 bore the 346 and 4 inch stroke 383 will make very similar peak hp. However, the 383 will make it at lower rpm and the 383 will usually make about 25 to 35 more foot pounds of torque.
LS1/LS6 383 stroker motors are more about torque under the curve than peak hp.
If big peak hp numbers are important toss the LS1 block and upgrade to a LS2 with 4 inch bore or LS3 with 4.06 bore.
A good set of ported heads & cam will benefit more for the dollar cost than a 4 stroker crank.
Expect to spend $2000 to $2400 on a stroker crank, rods, & piston rotating assembly plus usually some extra work clearancing the block and balacing the assembly. Often about $500 for the typical shop to do for you. So $2500 to $2800 to do stroker crank. Plus windage tray & custom crank scraper.
Excellent heads & cam set ups can be had for less.
Personally, I like the driveability of the 383 LS1 stroker with heads & cam in my RS with the extra torque way better than heads & cam LS1 in my TA. Under 3000 rpm in the daily drive range the RS is way more fun to drive. Both cars are six speeds with 4.10's. The extra 35 to 40ish foot pounds of torque were worth the cost.
With the 3.9 bore the 346 and 4 inch stroke 383 will make very similar peak hp. However, the 383 will make it at lower rpm and the 383 will usually make about 25 to 35 more foot pounds of torque.
LS1/LS6 383 stroker motors are more about torque under the curve than peak hp.
If big peak hp numbers are important toss the LS1 block and upgrade to a LS2 with 4 inch bore or LS3 with 4.06 bore.
A good set of ported heads & cam will benefit more for the dollar cost than a 4 stroker crank.
Expect to spend $2000 to $2400 on a stroker crank, rods, & piston rotating assembly plus usually some extra work clearancing the block and balacing the assembly. Often about $500 for the typical shop to do for you. So $2500 to $2800 to do stroker crank. Plus windage tray & custom crank scraper.
Excellent heads & cam set ups can be had for less.
Personally, I like the driveability of the 383 LS1 stroker with heads & cam in my RS with the extra torque way better than heads & cam LS1 in my TA. Under 3000 rpm in the daily drive range the RS is way more fun to drive. Both cars are six speeds with 4.10's. The extra 35 to 40ish foot pounds of torque were worth the cost.
thank you for the advice! i like hearing the torque number for the 383. i'm looking at a lunati 4in crank rotating assembly. i just want to start with that. but eventually i would like to add a Comp Cam Tri-Power Xtreme™, TPX 254HR-16. and then stock heads and intake. i have looked at afr heads for the engine. but i'm on a budget and would like to add them way later. should i expect any problems from this set up?
Normally, I select cylinder heads first and plan the build around what best supports the cylinder head with in all the other restrictions. Next what intake selection is available and will fit the application. Next displacement. Last cam selection to best support the motor in the rpm range desired.
Comp Cams Tri-Power Xtreme™, TPX 254HR-16 Part number 54-530-11?
If that's the cam in question is like a 202/212 at .050 with .507ish lift - way too small for a 346 in my opinion, never mind for a 383 in my opinion unless its being used for towing. I dont think this cam will get you near 500 crank/fly wheel hp without a power adder.
I think Lunati makes a nice crank based on what I've read but i haven't had a build done with their products. Both Callies Compstar cranks (one in the RS and one in the vette) were spot on when checked. They didn't require a lot of extra work.
It's my understanding that Molnar LS cranks and rods usually are high quality, very close to the mark and don't require as much machine work normally. I'm reseaching Molnar and K1 next time around with an engine project.
Comp Cams Tri-Power Xtreme™, TPX 254HR-16 Part number 54-530-11?
If that's the cam in question is like a 202/212 at .050 with .507ish lift - way too small for a 346 in my opinion, never mind for a 383 in my opinion unless its being used for towing. I dont think this cam will get you near 500 crank/fly wheel hp without a power adder.
I think Lunati makes a nice crank based on what I've read but i haven't had a build done with their products. Both Callies Compstar cranks (one in the RS and one in the vette) were spot on when checked. They didn't require a lot of extra work.
It's my understanding that Molnar LS cranks and rods usually are high quality, very close to the mark and don't require as much machine work normally. I'm reseaching Molnar and K1 next time around with an engine project.
I have a Lunati VooDoo 4" crank in my 383ci. Very nice crank and my local machine shop didn't have any trouble with it either. I agree with Black Bird as well with the heads/cam/intake. If it were me I would save up some more $$$ and build the entire package at once. Might take a little longer but you won't be doing the job twice.
I have a Lunati VooDoo 4" crank in my 383ci. Very nice crank and my local machine shop didn't have any trouble with it either. I agree with Black Bird as well with the heads/cam/intake. If it were me I would save up some more $$$ and build the entire package at once. Might take a little longer but you won't be doing the job twice.
I will be building a 383 this winter using Molnar crank and rods in a 5.3 block and will let you know how they work. My brother just built a 427 SBF with a Molnar rotating assembly. The engine builder said the Molnar quality was great and they are fair priced





