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Compression Check Number ?s, and bottom end ?s.

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Old Dec 6, 2016 | 09:35 PM
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Default Compression Check Number ?s, and bottom end ?s.

I have a LQ4 with unknown miles, had issues with heads. Before I took the heads off, I did a compression check, 6 cylinders were about 150psi, the other was 120, that cylinder had some carbon buildup on the valve seat. The last one had a valve spring break. Should I hone the walls out and put in new rings? The cylinder walls look great, I can still see the factory hone. Also, some of the cylinder walls have some discoloration, from water, no pits, just some strains.

Now for the bottom end, I want to check out the main and rod bearings.
Are the rod bolts torque to yield, and what about the main caps, are they as well?

Thanks.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 07:26 AM
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only the head bolts are TTY.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 07:28 AM
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Rod and main bolts are not TTY, but they do torque to an angle. I've reused them successfully in a few builds.

If you have it apart, I'd go ahead an bump the hone through it and use new rings. You can use a brush hone or have the machine shop do it without a torque plate without removing much material from the cylinder walls. If you are planning on replacing pistons, have it torque plate honed to the next bore size.
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Old Dec 7, 2016 | 10:12 AM
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compression tests should be run at operating temp. was yours done cold?
try a leak down test to see where you are losing pressure. It all might be in your heads/valve seal
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