FAST LSXRT definitely, MAMOFIED if funds allow, advance cam
2-4*, if thats not enough (should be 20-30 lb ft from 1500-4500
compared to now. don't know specs on v2 but Cam Motion stage II
truck cam would help a bunch more as well.

Alternately TBSS Intake ported by Peak Speed,
would be close to Fast in performance out of the box,
for much less than 1/2 of LSXRT price, + the cost of shave & dip,
don't know what that would be.
i

 

Play with EOIT injection timing in your tune as well. That cam is big enough you can pick up a lot from delaying when injection timing starts. It makes little to no difference up top since the injector is open most of the time anyway. But down low, it can have a huge impact on performance in the range where that stall is likely to be slipping during street driving. It also improves the idle.

 

You have to be careful with the intake side piston-to-valve clearance on LS engines when doing this.

 

What is EOIT injection timing? Probably a stupid question lol. I'm gonna put the lsxrt intake on it and go from there. Thanks for all the help guys!

 

It's a parameter for when to fire the injector in the cycle.

Delaying it can really boost low-end torque on larger cams. They are "later" than stock in terms of the overlap cycle, and spraying later will ensure you maximize time on a hot intake valve. Otherwise, you're spraying earlier than you need to (at low speed).

Honestly, you're probably see more power from that than the intake change. Or do both and really up the torque.

 

Good to know. I'll definitely let my tuner know when I bring it back to him in the spring. Thanks

 

Not sure if I did something wrong or what but I didn't notice any real change with my EOIT settings.

To be fair though I think at the time I was also fighting a corrupted tune file and am not sure if the current tune I am running has the changes to the EOIT table.

 

Gotcha and good point. Sometimes I assume the reader puts "if possible" and/or "within reason" at the end of my statement lol.

 

That is not a lot of converter IF it is a good converter for a given application. Guys run YANK 3600's all day in F-bodys. I run the higher stall version of the converter below in my Silverado. It's actually pretty tight at low throttle. Lay into and it flashes right up. My wife drove my truck the other day and didn't say anything about it, which shows how "stock" it can feel when driven normally. My motor is bone stock, only mods are a shitty cat back and a K&N. And I'm talking about a 5.3 pushing a 5,500 pound truck. Give Circle D a call. I actually wish the thing would flash a bit higher sometimes, lol.

http://www.circledspecialties.com/p-...converter.aspx

Subbing to this thread. Can't wait to see some good, real world results.

BTW - yes a TBSS manifold is almost as good as a FAST and yes, it is ugly as F. But what about running it and then putting an engine cover on it? Could custom paint one cheap and have it look really nice for not much money.

 

And you say you have no bottom end LMAO geez no way you will with that exhaust. You need to decide what you want? Good Street runner OR big everything that just doesn't work on the street. At least put a x or h pipe in there, you need to get the exhaust velocity up at low rpms to get bottom end. Either choke it with the intake or choke the exhaust.

I was making 400hp with the stock exhaust in my 99TA and it ran awesome from bottom to top end. I raced a bunch of modded street cars and I can't remember ever losing. I raced a highly modded yellow limited edition TA, on the bottom I walked away from him like he turned off the key. After we stopped to talk, he was pissed I took him so badly with minimum mods. He had full headers blaa blaa blaa.

My 01 WS6 has the stock exhaust with a stainless flow master welded in. Its not the loudest, its not the best flowing BUT it matches the engine and street driving PERFECTLY. The car MOVES HARD from bottom to top and makes me smile every time I touch the skinny pedal.

 

I completely disagree with choking the exhaust as a means to boost performance.

 

We'll I'm ditching the turbo 350 and going with a 4l80e that I just had built. Looking for a converter now. Probably going with a Yank 3400 stall. Plus I'm still doing the fast 102 lsxrt and building some type of cold air kit because my ait were pretty high. Is that 4l80 gonna rob power compared to the turbo 350?

 

Depends on who you ask.

With the converter locked, the 80e will probably make more power on the dyno.

 

Choking it properly will only add a BUNCH of bottom end.

 

Thanks for this, I was just wondering how to launch my attack but ya know, this just about sums it up.

 

Hi, who's your daddy

 

Pretty poor terminology.
Choking it will cause you to lose low end. Don't believe me? Clog a converter.

I think the term you're looking for is proper scavenging, and it really only applies to headers. You want the exhaust to leave the head at optimal velocity so that it is forced out fast enough to create a low pressure area or "dead zone" behind it. That way it will be far enough from the valve to prevent it from sitting on the back of the valve and creating problems the next time that the valve is open.

With proper headers, there isn't any need for more exhaust at all. You could run open headers and retain all low end power.

Taking a mild setup or low-cube small cam engine and throwing on 1 7/8" or 2" headers with a dual 3" exhaust and straight-through mufflers is going to make it struggle down low.

 

Agreed on all points with further clarification that I would not have any qualms about 1 7/8" on a stock ls1 or modded lq4. I'd say chances are high the op is using a 1 3/4" primary longtube.

 

The Edelbrock is a nice forced induction intake but just about any factory plastic intake or FAST will give more tq.

 

The problem comes from the guys with small cam 4.8s or stock cam 5.3s running 1 7/8" race headers with a 3.5" collector and dual 3" exhaust complaining about lack off performance when they mash the throttle at cruising speeds. Lots of noise, but you don't really go anywhere.