Arp main studs vs stock
I wouldnt be the least bit surprised if the stock main studs held. Im sure someone somewhere has done it time and time again. However, if the motor isnt something you want to replace I would spend the extra money and put arp main studs in there along with rod bolts and head studs. Add strength now for peace of mind and reliability later.
I wouldnt be the least bit surprised if the stock main studs held. Im sure someone somewhere has done it time and time again. However, if the motor isnt something you want to replace I would spend the extra money and put arp main studs in there along with rod bolts and head studs. Add strength now for peace of mind and reliability later.
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Perhaps not a line bore, but a line hone indeed. The greater clamping force of the ARP main studs will distort the main bore to some degree.
Lots of guys run totally stock bottom ends with turbo setups, and have little to no problems with the GM hardware.
Lots of guys run totally stock bottom ends with turbo setups, and have little to no problems with the GM hardware.
Anyone have any real experience in this subject? What numbers have been put down with stock main studs. My car will make roughly 900 on spray to the crank.
I agree though, nitrous is normally harder on parts at the same power.
Do it, just so you can say you did. I've notice the the 12 point nuts in an ARP stud kit have wider base than stock bolts. You get a more accurate degree of clamping with ARP because you're using a finer thread with the nuts that will hold your caps in place. Other than that? Total waste of money. Don't forget to line hone and have your ARP hardware in and torqued if you bore and hone your block.










