How to pin cam bearings?
64post, calm down. There are many many options alot of places dont offer on their websites. Like previously said, this happened some on old school sbc and bbc, but i see no reason why youd want to on an LS. Stock blocks now are pushing 8krpm and over 1000hp with no spun cam bearings. Doweling a cam bearing wont fix oil control/supply issues or the odd wear caused by cam flex.
Honestly with all of that said and the possibility of complications or issues, its not necessary at all.
FWIW that block with the spun cam bearing i saw was built into an iron 383 and has been punished for nearly 70k miles now in a heavy truck.
Those locktite compounds would be alot better alternative. Using what you learned or heard on the gen1 stuff doesnt always translate to engines now days, even ls blocks. Esp with the advancements in material and machining.
Honestly with all of that said and the possibility of complications or issues, its not necessary at all.
FWIW that block with the spun cam bearing i saw was built into an iron 383 and has been punished for nearly 70k miles now in a heavy truck.
Those locktite compounds would be alot better alternative. Using what you learned or heard on the gen1 stuff doesnt always translate to engines now days, even ls blocks. Esp with the advancements in material and machining.
Hey OP, try this first.
https://www.jbtoolsales.com/loctite-...FZNgfgodokIAqg
https://www.jbtoolsales.com/loctite-...FZNgfgodokIAqg
I'll check out yellowbullet and post over there, since they may have more experience with this.
They never offered any such thing. Please show a link to that service or a link where anybody's build on this site where this proceedure was done and I'll eat crow and take it back, I call B.S. Who is going to drill holes in their main saddles, the holes would counter bored to be bigger than the set set screw, the bearing would have to have a precise depth hole drilled in it and be aligned, this sounds like a great deal of work and, well, B.S. Once again, Loc-tite makes an adhesive for this purpose. Show the link, any link and I'll correct myself.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh...d.php?t=485116
Stevieturbo is a member on here too so you can PM him for more info if you are that interested.
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They never offered any such thing. Please show a link to that service or a link where anybody's build on this site where this proceedure was done and I'll eat crow and take it back, I call B.S. Who is going to drill holes in their main saddles, the holes would counter bored to be bigger than the set set screw, the bearing would have to have a precise depth hole drilled in it and be aligned, this sounds like a great deal of work and, well, B.S. Once again, Loc-tite makes an adhesive for this purpose. Show the link, any link and I'll correct myself.
http://www.yellowbullet.com/forum/sh....php?t=1165594
http://www.erlperformance.com/wp-con...hure-Web-1.pdf
On this ERL Catalog scroll down to block Modifications and upgrades
Last edited by slogo; Apr 28, 2017 at 05:14 PM.
64post, calm down. There are many many options alot of places dont offer on their websites. Like previously said, this happened some on old school sbc and bbc, but i see no reason why youd want to on an LS. Stock blocks now are pushing 8krpm and over 1000hp with no spun cam bearings. Doweling a cam bearing wont fix oil control/supply issues or the odd wear caused by cam flex.
Honestly with all of that said and the possibility of complications or issues, its not necessary at all.
FWIW that block with the spun cam bearing i saw was built into an iron 383 and has been punished for nearly 70k miles now in a heavy truck.
Those locktite compounds would be alot better alternative. Using what you learned or heard on the gen1 stuff doesnt always translate to engines now days, even ls blocks. Esp with the advancements in material and machining.
Honestly with all of that said and the possibility of complications or issues, its not necessary at all.
FWIW that block with the spun cam bearing i saw was built into an iron 383 and has been punished for nearly 70k miles now in a heavy truck.
Those locktite compounds would be alot better alternative. Using what you learned or heard on the gen1 stuff doesnt always translate to engines now days, even ls blocks. Esp with the advancements in material and machining.
I don't have the block nearby me to check, but is there a direct path to tap into the bearing or do you have to drill into the block some before reaching the bearing to tap?
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I've used the locktite solution a few times, works very well. You still have to properly fit the bearings and get them in straight. When I tried to remove the locktited bearings I had to use heat to release them.
I mentioned using the locktite before in other threads but some guys that never tried it posted up some garbage about the locktite causing the bearings to overheat<COMPLETE BS!
I don't like the grub screw idea at all. It may stop the bearing from spinning but if its loose in the journal its still going to move around and wear against the screw. Also what happens if the screws come loose? USE THE LOCKTITE.
I mentioned using the locktite before in other threads but some guys that never tried it posted up some garbage about the locktite causing the bearings to overheat<COMPLETE BS!
I don't like the grub screw idea at all. It may stop the bearing from spinning but if its loose in the journal its still going to move around and wear against the screw. Also what happens if the screws come loose? USE THE LOCKTITE.
Because I read a few links where they did it that way and not through the main saddles?
Last edited by 64post; Apr 29, 2017 at 08:27 PM.
I've used the locktite solution a few times, works very well. You still have to properly fit the bearings and get them in straight. When I tried to remove the locktited bearings I had to use heat to release them.
I mentioned using the locktite before in other threads but some guys that never tried it posted up some garbage about the locktite causing the bearings to overheat<COMPLETE BS!
I don't like the grub screw idea at all. It may stop the bearing from spinning but if its loose in the journal its still going to move around and wear against the screw. Also what happens if the screws come loose? USE THE LOCKTITE.
I mentioned using the locktite before in other threads but some guys that never tried it posted up some garbage about the locktite causing the bearings to overheat<COMPLETE BS!
I don't like the grub screw idea at all. It may stop the bearing from spinning but if its loose in the journal its still going to move around and wear against the screw. Also what happens if the screws come loose? USE THE LOCKTITE.
with the set screws, you can do a couple things. if your going into the back of the bearing, only tap deep enough that the taps' lead allows the screw to run up tight as it protrudes into the cam bore to grab the cam bearing.
or you can peen the screw threads with a chisel to create a kind of mechanical lock tite if you will. it basically galls the threads as you tighten it and that locks it in.
pinning cam bearings has been really common for many years. it's actually kinda funny you guys are so incredulous about it. i guess thats kind of a blessing really, prior to ls engines it used to be pretty difficult to make 750hp. now days thats easy to do on a daily driver haha
locktite causing the bearings to overheat? thats def some BS.
how hot did you have to get it to release? the green 680 stuff i have on hand says it's good to 355* ---so with a typical engineered 150% safety margin it'd be plenty fine under any normal conditions unless the bearing is completely starved of oil
oh man i just had a flashback to the couple years i messed with big block olds motors. having to restrict oil from the cam to the lifter oil galley...wow we really got it lucky these days
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I used a 1000 degree electric heat gun to release them. I'd read the instructions and follow the directions carefully. I've seen extreme cases where we had to use propane torch to release bearings. You don't want to get into that if you don't have to. Locktite is some healthy Sheeeet.