good luck 
and let me know if u find out 
Guys with Cam or heads and Cam in here
Guys with Cam or heads and Cam in here My car idles great and everything when the AC or heater is OFF, but when i turn my AC or heater ON the RPM goes up especially when im rolling to a stop and the car in netural. Even sometimes i feel the car pulls by its self when in gear without me pushing the gas pedal. Now i can live with this problem, but i wanted to see if anyone had the same problem before and figured out how to solve it. Thanks.
What mine does is every once in a while when i'm rolling to a stop in neutral or just coasting in neutral the car idles at around 1500 untill i come to a complete stop. then the idle comes back down.
woa-is-me LOL! Mine is doin' crazy **** too. Before my cam install (TR220/200 .553/.553 112 LSA), I could crank it and pull out of the driveway and for about 3-5 seconds it would choke down and not want to go, then, it would run great. It would do this mostly after I had driven it for a few miles and let it sit for 30-45 minutes.
After the cam install, this went away, however, now I crank it and I dies several times unless I let it sit and idle about 30-35 seconds ... before putting it in gear. Turning the A/C on makes it worse, but, it still does it with A/C on or off.
Anyone know what this could be?
After the cam install, this went away, however, now I crank it and I dies several times unless I let it sit and idle about 30-35 seconds ... before putting it in gear. Turning the A/C on makes it worse, but, it still does it with A/C on or off.
Anyone know what this could be?
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Verdad Gallardo It was dyno tuned. Yeah, I got it dyno tuned by a guy on this board. He did something to it that he thought might help, but, it didn't. He said I could come back and he could change a specific table and it might help. I just got frustrated and hung it up after two Saturdays of tuning and dyno-ing ... $350.00 worth. I'm not sure if mine is a tuning issue or not. I know it smells really strong of carbon monoxide since the tune. I had him turn off the EGR/AIR/SES light. He also turned off the rear 02 sensors. I was happy down low, except that my max numbers sucked really bad (for whatever reason) and this probelm of it dying on cold starts. My exhaust is hurting me a lot.
I hope someone can shed some light as to what specifically causes this cold start dying problem.
I hope someone can shed some light as to what specifically causes this cold start dying problem.
Mine will idle high when coasting in neutral. A/C off it will idle @1200 RPM untill I come to a complete stop then it drops too 950. A/C on it will idle @ 1500rpm untill I come to a complete stop and then it drops to 950. When I turn on the A/C it will choke the motor down a bit and it takes a few seconds to find an idle but then it is fine.Yes my car has been tuned but not on a Dyno, it was a mail order deal. I have a few freinds with dyno tunes with the same problems.
On hot starts it tends to not want to idle for a few seconds. It will find an idle eventually and is fine after that. Any cammed car I have seen has these problems. I was able to help the problem a bit by adjusting the opening of the throttle blade of the TB. After each adjustment I did an IAC relearn by unplugging the IAC turn the key on for a few seconds, then shut it off and plug it back in. Crank the car and let it learn the new position. It is a little time consuming but if you repeat this in small increments untill you get the best results you may even completely solve your problem.
FWIW I drove a bone stock SS yesterday and It would idle a bit high while coastin and it was worse with the A/C on. Just not as noticeable because of the smoother idle.
I am not an expert on this subject I am just sharing my experience and what helped me out. If anyone knows a total cure for this please post up!
Brad
On hot starts it tends to not want to idle for a few seconds. It will find an idle eventually and is fine after that. Any cammed car I have seen has these problems. I was able to help the problem a bit by adjusting the opening of the throttle blade of the TB. After each adjustment I did an IAC relearn by unplugging the IAC turn the key on for a few seconds, then shut it off and plug it back in. Crank the car and let it learn the new position. It is a little time consuming but if you repeat this in small increments untill you get the best results you may even completely solve your problem.
FWIW I drove a bone stock SS yesterday and It would idle a bit high while coastin and it was worse with the A/C on. Just not as noticeable because of the smoother idle.
I am not an expert on this subject I am just sharing my experience and what helped me out. If anyone knows a total cure for this please post up!
Brad
I'll try that ... thanks man. With my '99, hot starts produce no problems and it idles great at 700 rpm consistently. On cold starts is where my problem is. It dies 2-3 times ... the first 10 seconds, it's smooth as can be at abour 1000 rpm's, then, it seems that the auto-choke shuts off and it acts like it will die. I put it in gear and it does. Then, it starts surging and nearly dying and then it will surge again and nearly take off. After about 30-45 seconds of this, it runs like a charm ... just crazy ****, man.
The throttle plate opens at 90 dgrees since I ground the bumpstop. With mine, the A/C kills it during the surging/choking stage. Afterwards, when it starts running right, the A/C makes no difference.
The throttle plate opens at 90 dgrees since I ground the bumpstop. With mine, the A/C kills it during the surging/choking stage. Afterwards, when it starts running right, the A/C makes no difference.
when you get it figured out and make any changes, make sure to do idle relearn, but work in A/C on for 5 minutes in P, and A/C off for 5 minutes, A/C on for 5 minutes in D or OD and A/C off for 5 minutes. At least that is what it is for Auto cars, may want to look up the proper procudure for M6.
Originally Posted by JEB99TA
The throttle plate opens at 90 dgrees since I ground the bumpstop. With mine, the A/C kills it during the surging/choking stage. Afterwards, when it starts running right, the A/C makes no difference.
As for the Idle re learn in an M6 it is the same except you only do it in neutral.
The problem is after you car is tuned normaly thr idle is rased and so is the moving idle aswell. so when you are coasting to a stop the car is at a moving idle. (higher), this is normal for an ls1. sometimes the hole in the TB blade is to big and can cause an even higher moving idle. you can make this go away but then the car will not idle worth **** at a stop. the moving idle is based on the idle you set with ls1 edit. (allways there). the higher idle because the compressor on the ac is based on the bass idle too.