OK, I'm an old dog (70), trying to learn new tricks.

I looked at other LQ4 build threads but, of course, mine is different.
I picked up an LQ4 from a 2004 Silverado with only 18k miles on it. After checking head bolts (unequal), it turns out to be a late 2003. No problem.

I'm on one of those "fixed income" budgets, so I don't plan to do anything with the short block, except for a cam change and a high volume/standard pressure oil pump.

Objective: I want a reliable but strong engine. Not sure what HP I'll be able to get... maybe someone experienced could give me a "SWAG".

OK, here are questions:
Heads: I can't afford 243 or aftermarket heads. I don't really see a downside to the 317 heads, except the CCs are bigger, thus lower CR. I thought about 241 heads. The specs are decent, except the ports are a tad smaller, but you have the smaller CC thus a bit more CR. A tradeoff, I guess. Could I get away with thinner than the stock .051 head gaskets?Opinions...?
Intake: The truck intake is not being considered (just butt-ugly). I do want to use FI, so I'd like to use the complete ls6 intake. Is this a good choice?
Cam: Always the question, which is "best". I like the sound the WS6-Store cam makes in their YouTube video, but...would it be a good choice for my needs? What would you do?
I plan to run this in a street car (no drag racing anymore).
Engine Controls: Is their an easy solution? I see MSD makes a "box" that controls ignition, but doesn't handle the fuel side.
I REALLY need suggestions with this one!

Last, I have all the OEM stuff (computer, DBW pedal, and all accessories), but don't know if any would be useful.

Sorry to be so windy, but that's how we learn. Thanks all...

 

Heads- Get some 799's now used on all late 5.3 truck engines. Same as 243's
Intake- LS6 is very good for what you want. Dorman makes a good aftermarket copy.
Cam- IF you like a little lope AND a decent bottom end, the WS6store cam might suit you. What model car is this going into?
Engine Controls- You did well to get all the "stuff"! The computer can be tuned to whatever you do, and the harness can be modified also. No need to buy another control system. Get ahold of SpearTech. They can tell you what to do on all the "stuff".
Also- I'm 65, so don't let the age thing get ya! We can all keep learning! Keeps us young! lol

 

Very good recommendation!

Only thing I'd change. I think the ws6 store hot cam might be a bit small. They have an ASA cam too that is a bit bigger and would go nicely with your LQ4.

Bit of a side note, the 241 heads would be a downgrade. 799 is a solid recommendation. You could also mill or weld fill the 317's, but 317, 799, 243 heads all flow the same.

With the 317 and low compression you could (and I can't believe I'm saying this) boost it with zero risk down the road. A used procharger or something.

 

Thank you Darth! Just using knowledge gained mostly from these forums and particularly knowledgeable guys like yourself. Plus I read a LOT of books...

 

Thanks folks.
I wanted to use a 70 - 81 Camaro with the '70 front and rear sheet metal. Problem is, I can't find one with a decent body! I don't care about the mechanicals, but I don't want to have to replace quarters, floor pans...etc. I just haven't been able to find one. I live in Colorado, so you'd think it wouldn't be this difficult.
I also am considering the 98 - 01 Chevy S-10, and I have found a few candidates, but haven't committed yet.

I will do some searching for a pair of 799 heads. I'd forgotten they were virtually the same as 243s.

thanks again!

 

Yeah the only difference is the 243's were die-cast and the 799's are sand cast, which functionally means squat. Bottom line- lotsa good heads around!

 

If it's purely aesthetics that turned you off off the truck intakes, with a little effort and elbow grease they can be made to look pretty sharp, assuming there's no hood clearance issues.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=cg9bc2vJL9A

 

I am doing a LQ build also. Except I am going .030 over. contact the WS6store , I have purchased all my build parts from them . the ASA hi lift cam kit is a good price. also check out their hi-flow oil pump.

 

On the oil pump and a used engine.
I'd use the hi psi, standard flow pump. A bit of clean up of the internals, and it's good to go.

 

Just looking around for an ls6 intake is confusing. Do I want a 12573572, or a 88894339?, or a 12561184? Geeez!

Also, anybody have a pair of 243 or 799 heads that I don't need a second mortgage to buy and do what they need to be usable?

I know, I know...do I want cheese with my whine?

 

Our asa cam is great fo a good amt of lope and a 2800+ stall.

We have 799 heads already machined with a 3 angle valve job, flat milled, brand new valves and seals with the pac1218 to fit the high lift hot cam or high lift asa cam for $950 shipped for the set. Bolt em on and go.

Otherwise your 317s are ok. Get a good valve job, mill .020 new seals and bolt em on!

To tear you away from the sbc/bbc ways, dont use a high volume pump on a stockish build. Either std pressur or high pressure only.

We have THE BEST prices for all the gaskets, bolts, pumps etc out there and nearly everything is on hand.

The truck intake may not fit so ls6 is your best bet. any ls6 will be fine. Iirc you need fbody accy and oil pan to work in the 3rd gens.

 

Milling the heads and/or thinner head gaskets means pushrods need to be bought most likely. And I have a 2004 LQ4 with the early bolts. When you change cams, the bearings can be one of 2 sizes, check twice and buy once...

 

Short long bolts mean early cam bearings. Ch 10 durabond.
A thinner head gasket normally doesnt warrant a diff pr with most ls engines at .007-.012 out of the hold the thinnest you could go on gaskets for .030 quench would be .040 honestly. Milling yes but normally only above .010 off.

 

One thing that may be helpful in your intake search is that LS6 intakes are flat on the bottom and LS1 intakes are rounded on the bottom. And they look very very similar and there are no others that are cathedral port that look like them. That being said it's easy to tell a LS1 or LS6 intake apart from all others, but the easiest way to distinguish between the two is the shape of the floor.

That i'm aware of... if it's a flat bottom, it's an LS6 and the part number isn't important.


for a pic reference

https://www.google.com/search?q=ls1+...a6uDOUaD6e8HM:

 

Didn't see these cams on your website, surely i'm retarded but can you point me in the right direction?

Also, why not high volume std pressure? I'd like to learn more about that, not asking to argue.

 

Ws6store cams

There you go

The stock bearing clearance is tight and doesnt need higher volume...so the extra volume has to go somewhere right? Normally that creates higher pressure anyway. Thats the abridged version.

Added link ;-)

 

OK, I'm sneakin' up on this...

If I use:
my stock LQ4 short block
my 317 heads w/.020 milled off and a fresh valve job (& .051 head gaskets)
a stock LS6 intake
WS6's ASA cam

See any problems yet?

And...?s:
can I use my stock lifters/push rods/rockers w/the ASA cam?
what size TB & injectors on the stock ls6 intake?(I have the DBW accelerator, if that matters)
should I just have my "computer" reprogrammed and the wire harness "stripped"?

Last: I found a ls6 intake complete except for TB for $440 (+100 for a TB) Good? yes/no?)

Thanks...everyone has been a great help with my "education".

 

No issues there. our cam uses stock lifters and rockers yes.

Ls6 intakes come with 28lb injectors. with a 255 pump youd still need to upgrade to a 36lb inj to meet fuel needs. They are $305 for set.

You can find complete ls6 manifolds for 400-500 but since you need inj anyway just an intake and fuel rail is all you need.