Your buddy go by StreetKing on another forum?

As mentioned above, tidy the car up, and enjoy it. You might just enjoy it as is...gasp!!!!

 

Nope he is busy running his business and not on Internet forums. Is StreetKing otherwise known as the infamous SW in Austin?

 

I would leave the bottom end alone. Do heads, cam, and your own T56 rebuild. Parts are pretty cheap as long as the its just the pads and not the synchros.

 

That’s him. Dude has some serious money in cars. Sorry for the interruption.

 

Another option, once the driveline is sound, a cam (possibly used), 243 heads, and FAST 92 (or 102 if you want to deal with shoe horning it in) would be a nice setup.


In the long run Assemble the new short block (likely more cubes), port the 243s or go aftermarket, and swap over the FAST. You could sell the 243s for your purchase price.

Stock Harmonic balancers like to fail on C5s, and a ATI was for sale in the parts for sale here.

 

I did WAY too much searching and not enough working today.

Current thought is I think tranny rebuild myself or get built is probably going to happen quick along with checking out torque tube and clutch/slave/flywheel pretty much as soon as I bring it to my house. Drive as desired.

After that follow the general advice here and plan on leaving bottom end alone and do heads/cam/some sort of intake (especially if I can get a fast used for reasonable)/headers (also get the advantage to see the cylinders when heads off). All the odds and ends of lifters, oil pump, timing chain, rocker bearing upgrade. Probably look at some suspension freshing up of bushings, shocks, etc. Hopefully stop there for a long while and have fun.

Heads are my obsession now. Seems ported “Z06” (243 or equivalent) are best bang for the buck. If one actually had them. If you don’t and need to get them first then the cost doesn’t seem so terrible to go ahead and get tfs220 “touched up” by BTR or PRC as cast. Best I could search nothing but good said about the BTR TFS at a bit over 2000 for NICE stuff. If there’s one place I’d spend more it’s heads. I learned that long ago in my LT1 and LX coupe days. Am I off base?

Before anyone busts on me about budget I suppose to some this isn’t but my view of budget is not going full on on everything solid roller requiring expensive rockers that revs really high and then needing fancy bottom end to turn super high rpm and the highest end heads with the most expensive everything because that could probably quickly double the price.

I appreciate the help and ideas as I sort of wade back into this.

 

You seem to be headed in the right direction and have received good advice so far.

If I were in your position, I'd be tempted to have your dad drop the car off at Texas Drivetrain Performance with Jason to have the trans rebuilt and the new clutch installed, but I don't know what his backlog looks like. He's got a good rep for T56 builds and good prices. Having him remove and reinstall the trans would add to that cost, but it's a hassle that you'd be better off avoiding if you don't have a lift.

 

Yes great idea for a normal person, but one of my flaws (budget minded, or my wife would say CHEAP) I have a hard time ever paying anyone to do something that I could reasonably do. I’ve changed many clutches before and it’s crappy work (the only fun stuff is the “improving” not fixing to me) but cannot fathom paying to have it done even if I suffer.

Since my last post I have been reading and researching and convincing myself to rebuild my own transmission (never done that one before so that provides some level of excitement and fear too). The learning experience and saving some bucks appeals to the “cheap” engineer that I am.

 

In that case, I wish you the best of luck.

I had this bookmarked in case I ever decided to attempt this myself.

https://www.ls2.com/forums/showthrea...uild-with-pics!

 

What about an LS3 crate motor with a cam? I bought mine from a guy in California for $6100, shipping included. You’d be in for 7k with 3k left over for trans/chassis.

 

6100 for basically this? New? https://www.summitracing.com/parts/n...1358/overview/

Definitely interested in that

 

93 Polo said "I would put a good clutch in it, Tick Hydraulics and replace the couplers and bearings in the torque tube. The new clutch and torque tube internals may fix your grinding issues."

Please keep in mind that GM does not sell ANY parts separately to service the driveshaft inside the torque tube. With that amount of miles you had better plan on replacing the bearings, and the rubber couplers AT A MINIMUM. I own a transmission shop and have seen quite a few 'vettes over the years come through my shop. Between half-shaft replacement, and torque tube/driveshaft replacement you can easily spend a LOT of money on just routine maintenance.

The biggest problem we see is that one of the bearings (there are 3!) goes bad in the aluminum coupler and they will seize. Once they seize they will begin to spin in the aluminum housing. You may find the bad bearing, but you will also find that the aluminum housing where the bearing is supposed to be a press fit, is now enlarged, and the new bearing will not only drop right in, but will wallow around in the housing due to too much clearance. Yes, they can be fixed. I send them out locally to be welded up, and re-machined to get the press fit back. This takes time & $$$$$$. I caution you to go over that driveshaft and it's related components, as if your life depends on it.. Also, if you can't find someone local to you that can handle rebuilding it, DO NOT CALL GM.. They will only sell you a brand new assembly at $3400 + tax. I have seen 'Vettes that were female driven-meaning never abused, have bad driveshafts at 150K miles. Also, check those half-shafts carefully. Just because the rubber grease retention boot is not split DOES NOT mean that the CV Joint inside is good. Also, the rubber bushings on the rear control arms (upper & lower) and shock mounts will be GONE on a car with 200K miles. Factor those in as well.

I understand the car is a gift to you but I think you might want to focus on making it safe, and reliable, before you jump right into building more power. I don't know your total budget but I don't think it would be crazy to say that the car will need $5K just to get the suspension & driveline back into shape BEFORE you ever even look at the motor. I've had 5 C5 Corvettes over the last 15 years. They all have one thing in common-they take quite a bit of $$$ to keep them in top shape. The best way to own a Corvette is to buy new, get it serviced regularly under the GM service plan, and then part ways with them when the mileage gets up there. Unless you are rich.. If you are rich, then dropping the dimes necessary to keep it running is nothing to even think about.

 

Yes new, but the stock 430hp version. I have one in my car now with a Nickey performance cam.