lol..............

 

Lots of opinions about WD40 but it's actual purpose is rust prevention.


Here's a controlled independent test
https://www.brownells.com/aspx/learn...aspx?lid=10700

 

You're mostly right, but I think it's only a short-term solution, like spraying over a block that's due to be assembled in the next day or two, after it's been tanked

 

It's actual purpose may be rust prevention, but it sucks ***** at it. Almost everyone knows this, and it is not just opinions.

The "test" linked to above was only three days long, so essentially a waste of time and not applicable to the OP's question. Who the hell is only trying to prevent rust for only 3 days, anyway? That is exactly why WD40 sucks. It is not a long lasting rust preventer.

 

If you noticed they also tried motor oil and many other rust preventatives and it performed the best. I've had a cam rust that I coated in motor oil before storing it.

As I said before, whatever you use will have to be applied often, none of them were a one time application and leave it type.

So what's the best option? What have you used that lasted years with zero issues and no upkeep?

 

Cosmolene for individual parts.. You can buy it from places that sell milling machine and lathe tooling. I've unpacked stuff in storage for decades in the stuff, only thing that takes it off is gasoline unfortunately..

 

I've used water proof wheel bearing grease a few times. Works good but it such mess. I'm not sure how a fogger spray like Yamaha sells would work for general parts. I know guns are good using gun oil<not sure what makes uit gun oil over any other oil. My ruined H&R target revolver is a testament that WD40 promotes rust and pitting. Gun was like new for years then I used the WD on it. Few months later I about sheet when I realized how damaged it got. Looks like it was left outside! still pisses me off! !st revolver I ever bought back in the 70's.

 

WD 40 is a rust magnet. You need to wrap the engine loosely in a plastic tarp otherwise no air circulation will lead to moisture buildup. If the storage area is prone to large temperature swings and moisture (like a shed) then you will have some issues no matter what. I used assembly oil and wrapped engine loosely in a plastic blue painters tarp and stored in my garage for 8 months..had some light surface rust but nothing too bad.

 

I’m no expert nor have I done or even took the time to read studies on what product works best to protect machined or non machined surfaces but I’ll throw my personal experience and practices in here. Take it for what you want.

Clean and degrease engine, paint all non machined surfaces (you can even paint machined surfaces to protect), fresh oil and filter, add marvel mystery oil to engine oil, prime oil pump (be sure all external oil passages are blocked first), remove valve covers and spark plugs, marvel oil in cylinders and rotate engine a few times, replace any oil that may have spewed out of cylinders, install plugs, back off all rockers, remove coolant drain plugs to be certain all water/coolant is out, get 4-5 cans of LPS3 and spray in every hole, cavity and/or opening liberally, coat the entire engine with that stuff, put contractor bag over engine and zip tie closed, use another bag going opposite direction and zip tie closed, put engine in plastic tote and store off the concrete floor.

I had a 383 stored for 3 years, pulled it out of its wrapper sprayed it down with carb cleaner and used compressed air to blow dry before evaporation, removed plugs, set valves, changed oil, prime it and ran it. No problem. Granted, that’s stored in heated garage. For cranks and cams I coat with assembly lube and put in garbage bag. FOR THE LOVE OF GOD, PLEASE, PLEASE DO NOT LAY CRANKS AND/OR CAMS ON THEIR SIDE!!!! I see people advertising for sale a cam or a crank and in one of their pictures it’s on its side. Retard!! Stand them on end or hang from snout, please.