Ckp p0335
I have just finished a head and cam swap on my 02 z28 about a month ago. When the car came back from being dyno tuned everything was great for about a week at which time it started to give me issues cranking on occasion and progressively got worse until finally it was every time I went to crank the engine. Finally it through code p0335 at which point went and got a new crankshaft position sensor and replaced. After replacement it cranked every time I hit the key for about a week and now it is doing the same and code p0335 has came back. Anyone know what could be causing this issue? Mods are as follows 243 heads, btr stage 3 cam, 102 intake and throttle body, aftermarket lid, headers, and underpulley kit. Thanks for any replies.
Well, it sounds like a wire. You jiggled it when it was replaced and that probably made good contact. So, check there. Also, the new CKS could be bad. I had two problems over the years. The first, on my GTO, the SES light would go on. The SES light also chimes on this car so don't confuse it with the CEL light. It goes on when there is a severe problem like no oil pressure. There is no code just noise and it requires a Tech II to read it.
Anyway and to the point, I bought an O'Reilly's oil pressure switch. I chose that one because it was $10 cheaper and had a life time warranty. It lasted one year. I changed it again under warranty and it lasted about two weeks. The 3rd time, I asked to trade upto the AC Delco and paid the extra $10. That was three years ago.
The same thing also happened to an O'Reilly's TPS. I had to return it twice before I got good one. So, take it back first and then go from there.
Anyway and to the point, I bought an O'Reilly's oil pressure switch. I chose that one because it was $10 cheaper and had a life time warranty. It lasted one year. I changed it again under warranty and it lasted about two weeks. The 3rd time, I asked to trade upto the AC Delco and paid the extra $10. That was three years ago.
The same thing also happened to an O'Reilly's TPS. I had to return it twice before I got good one. So, take it back first and then go from there.
Either a wiring issue or a crapped out crank sensor. Don't always count on new meaning it's for sure good. I'm a tech and I have parts be bad right out of the box more often that you would think.
Make sure you get a good brand name and also replace the pigtail, those pigtails are in an area where there's a lot of heat and can only take so much. The pigtails aren't expensive and it's easy to put them on definitely worth a shot. And if it isn't bad now, it will be at some point, so whether it looks bad or not I would replace it.
Make sure you get a good brand name and also replace the pigtail, those pigtails are in an area where there's a lot of heat and can only take so much. The pigtails aren't expensive and it's easy to put them on definitely worth a shot. And if it isn't bad now, it will be at some point, so whether it looks bad or not I would replace it.
Thanks for the input guys. I will replace the pigtail this weekend and if that don’t work I’ll get a new sensor from the dealership. It’s so weird because it runs like a top when it starts. I was thinking wiring as well.
Celebrated to soon. Literally after I wrote on here about it being fixed it acted up again but now once it’s fired off I can kill it and it’ll start right up...really weird. Any thoughts on it maybe being a ground issue or maybe I’m dealing with two separate issues?
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Be a good idea to check the engine block ground and body ground as well while you're at it.
If you still don't find anything pull the pcm connectors and check for any looseness, water, or dirt and put them back in.
If still nothing try a new crank sensor of a different brand.
I believe it to be my battery ground cable as this morning I tried to start it and it wouldn’t start. Then I popped the hood and messed the battery cable and it cranked right up and has been fine all morning.
Take the terminals off and use water and a wire brush to clean them. Water is the best battery/battery terminal cleaner there is.
I replaced my ground battery cable and the cable that goes to the starter about a week ago. I haven’t had any issues with the car since. I feel fairly certain that this issue is truly behind me now. Now on to my clutch. Thanks again for all the help.
It was not the cables as after I posted that the issue was resolved it started once again. It ended up being the ignition relay. Been fixed for over a month now. I wanted to wait and make sure that truly was the issue before posting again. Damn near drove me insane. Thanks again for the reply’s and help.








