Going to a bigger cam
currently have an LS2/T-56 C6 vette cam only set up with 1 3/4 headers, full cat-less Corsa exhaust, trunion upgrade, dual 660 springs, hardened pushrods, 25% under-driven balancer, cold air intake, wires, plugs, and BTR stage 3 cam: 231/242 .617"/.592" 112+2 with a dyno tune. The car made 437 rwhp and 427rwtq. The car drives great and has stock like street manners but I want more out of it. I would like to be between 510 and 530 rwhp.
I’m having my 243 heads CNC ported, valve job, and surface milled, port matching a Fast 102, Nick Williams 102 throttle body, 42lb injectors etc.
I’m looking at going to a Tick Polluter Cam and I'd obviously like to make more power but I’d still like to retain good street manners. I know the drive-ability has a lot to do with the tuner and my tuner is excellent.
I just wanted to see if any others used any of these cams and see if this cam (Tick Polluter) would be a good choice or will it be too big for my stock gears etc? I had also looked at the BTR Stage 4 (235/242 .621"/.592" 111+3) and the LG G5X4 as well.
I’m having my 243 heads CNC ported, valve job, and surface milled, port matching a Fast 102, Nick Williams 102 throttle body, 42lb injectors etc.
I’m looking at going to a Tick Polluter Cam and I'd obviously like to make more power but I’d still like to retain good street manners. I know the drive-ability has a lot to do with the tuner and my tuner is excellent.
I just wanted to see if any others used any of these cams and see if this cam (Tick Polluter) would be a good choice or will it be too big for my stock gears etc? I had also looked at the BTR Stage 4 (235/242 .621"/.592" 111+3) and the LG G5X4 as well.
i just did heads on my car and want to go to a smaller cam......you dont need as much cam to make power when you now have the ability to move more air with good heads. think about it, why do square and rectangular port heads have such higher duration on the exh than the int? im no expert but that tells me because it can't move air on that side like it can on the intake. so you bandaid that by more duration.
back to this discussion, good 243s won't need a cam to bandaid them, because they can flow. if you wanted to send peak power higher, that would be the only real benefit i see in increasing cam size with good heads.
back to this discussion, good 243s won't need a cam to bandaid them, because they can flow. if you wanted to send peak power higher, that would be the only real benefit i see in increasing cam size with good heads.
Intake valve and port are much bigger than the exh valve and port is the reason for the duration split, so you still need it even with better heads.
If you want to buy heads, Mast LS3 240cc small bore LS3's would be my pick. Much smaller intake runner than stock LS3's (more flow too) and a smaller intake valve (less PTV issues and less shrouding). FWIW my buddies LS2/M6/C6 has a vindicator (240/244), stock 243's, FAST 90/90, LG pro headers+X to BB catback, and made 450rwhp.
I like the 15cc less intake volume and 2.08 intake valve for a street application vs the Med. 4.00 bore version. The 2.08 valve will allow a larger cam (if desired) and is shrouded less (better flow around the valve). If you have ever seen a 2.165 valve in a 4" bore you'd understand how close it is to the cylinder wall. They're also 11 degree valve angle so that will allow for more PTV clearance too. More than likely a 2.08 valve is all they would put in his 243's heads anyway
Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2016
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Tha is for the input. I’m going to retain the BTR cam and just do the rest of my planned mods this winter; clutch, heads, Fast 102, NW TB, injectors, and maybe some nitrous. I’m going to have BES do the heads and upgrade the push rods as well. I’m still on the stock 3:42 gears but I may change that at some point.
