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what is causing smoke on start ups?

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Old 09-17-2018, 11:04 AM
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Default what is causing smoke on start ups?

i built an L33, had it bored and 799 heads worked and installed new seals and dual springs, block is bored .020 over with new pistons, turned crank .010, all new bearings including cam bearings with 228 cam, ls7 lifters and 7.4 pushrods. everything new but rockers and connecting rods... started smoking during break in proccess only on start up. been told i could have broken ring or blown valve seal. is burning a half a quart every 3 to 4 days. did a compression test and all cylinders came out to 180 give or take a few, #6 hit around 120 on first stroke but resumed normal after.
Old 09-17-2018, 12:53 PM
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Bad oil rings and valve seals wont show on a compression test.
The 2 piece seals can be a huge issue.
Thats why we only use the 1 piece stuff either for beehive or the tsp set for dual springs. never worry about seals again then.
Old 09-17-2018, 02:47 PM
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im using tsp with the dual springs, had a guy tell me that with these 5.3s they are having issues with a pvc valve on the passenger side or something in the oil pan, might you know anything about that?
Old 09-17-2018, 03:50 PM
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PCV or valve seals would be the first things to eliminate as these are easy to fix in an assembled engine. You could install a temporary breather filter on the oil fill. See if the problem goes away with the crankcase vented. If the oil burning goes away, then fix the pcv and cap the oil fill back to normal.

If that doesnt fix it, then take the valve covers off and inspect the seals. Did you install the seals or were they installed by a shop? And HOW were they installed. If they were hammered on, it’s possible 1 or more may have been damaged.
Old 09-17-2018, 04:21 PM
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The seals should not be an issue then unless installed wrong which isnt likely

The pcv baffles can get clogged so you can just soak them and clean them out.

Otherwise it requires more testing
Old 09-17-2018, 05:48 PM
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ok awesome feedback, thank you! how bout this, after the compression test yesterday i changed the oil and also went to 20w 50 oil, it hasnt smoked the last four starts. oil pressure still is weaker than normal and with that said could clogged pcv cause the lowered oil pressure? forgive for 20 questions but im learning. (after very first start up after engine swap oil pressure idled at 40, a couple months later, now, its idles at 20) melling high volume pump
Old 09-17-2018, 05:57 PM
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oh and a machine shop did the bore, the hads as well as install the springs and seals and cam bearings, Richard Gray to be exact in brighton tn
Old 09-17-2018, 06:09 PM
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Clogged PCV will not affect oil pressure. Learn how these systems work and you will see why. In this respect LS's aren't any different than any other engine, function wise.
Old 09-17-2018, 06:19 PM
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alright thanks, its a brand new engine what could most possibly have my oil pressure dropped?
Old 09-17-2018, 06:24 PM
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If it's oil smoke, as said above, rings and/or valve seals. You did not mention before about oil pressure dropping. When did that happen?
Old 09-17-2018, 07:52 PM
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Sometimes the pressure drops due to all the sludgy assembly lube. do not use 20/50 in a new build at all. 10/30 is likely what its set up for.
Also idk why people keep using the melling high volume pumps but its very unnecessary and can be agitating your oil burning issue. high pressure only.
Old 09-17-2018, 09:01 PM
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change the filter asap after a first fire after a fresh assembly. you could probably leave the oil in it, but I change it. Moly lube from under the bolt heads and the sticky red stuff I use on bearing surfaces...it clogs filters QUICK. Like inside 10 mins of run time.
Old 09-17-2018, 09:47 PM
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Are the heads ported?
Old 09-17-2018, 09:55 PM
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Originally Posted by gunner89
ok awesome feedback, thank you! how bout this, after the compression test yesterday i changed the oil and also went to 20w 50 oil, it hasnt smoked the last four starts. oil pressure still is weaker than normal and with that said could clogged pcv cause the lowered oil pressure? forgive for 20 questions but im learning. (after very first start up after engine swap oil pressure idled at 40, a couple months later, now, its idles at 20) melling high volume pump
Ok ​interesting test with the oil weights. To me this seems to rule out PCV and valve seals as the issue.. Based on your findings, I would suspect blow by in your cylinder(s). You didn’t mention what weight oil you had in it before but it sounds like your rings are able to keep the heavier weight oil out of the combustion chambers. I would def talk with your machine shop on what they think.

As as for the heavier oil, well thats a whole other story. I would be concerned leaving it in the engine long term. Sure it can be debated as to what’s best, but 20w50 sounds wrong. Bearing clearance will dictate what oil to use, so you’ll want to check this with your machinist too. Avoid any spirited driving before the oil is up to temp, or bettter yet just put the right stuff back in. Burning oil is better than burning bearings.
Old 09-18-2018, 06:01 AM
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Are those heads Castech? Did you have them tested for cracks? (or better yet, just pre-emptively fixed)
Old 09-18-2018, 09:03 AM
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Originally Posted by G Atsma
If it's oil smoke, as said above, rings and/or valve seals. You did not mention before about oil pressure dropping. When did that happen?
in the last week or so, within the last 3 to 400 miles. engine has around 3k on it.
Old 09-18-2018, 09:04 AM
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Originally Posted by truckdoug
change the filter asap after a first fire after a fresh assembly. you could probably leave the oil in it, but I change it. Moly lube from under the bolt heads and the sticky red stuff I use on bearing surfaces...it clogs filters QUICK. Like inside 10 mins of run time.
i did that after first start up and after 50 miles, i did complete oil change everytime
Old 09-18-2018, 09:08 AM
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Originally Posted by s30.hybrid


Ok ​interesting test with the oil weights. To me this seems to rule out PCV and valve seals as the issue.. Based on your findings, I would suspect blow by in your cylinder(s). You didn’t mention what weight oil you had in it before but it sounds like your rings are able to keep the heavier weight oil out of the combustion chambers. I would def talk with your machine shop on what they think.

As as for the heavier oil, well thats a whole other story. I would be concerned leaving it in the engine long term. Sure it can be debated as to what’s best, but 20w50 sounds wrong. Bearing clearance will dictate what oil to use, so you’ll want to check this with your machinist too. Avoid any spirited driving before the oil is up to temp, or bettter yet just put the right stuff back in. Burning oil is better than burning bearings.
i was told by an older gentleman, a long time mechanic to run the heavier weight oil as he told me thats all he runs in his everyday driver, i could go to a 10w30 and see how it works, i did notice this morning on once i got to work that my pressure is dropping as low as 10 to 12. making me quite nervous.
Old 09-18-2018, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
Are those heads Castech? Did you have them tested for cracks? (or better yet, just pre-emptively fixed)
they are aluminum and i had them checked for cracks
Old 09-18-2018, 10:08 AM
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I'd do a leak down test hot and cold, may show something.



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