Will my cam work well with boost?
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
i seriously do not see it being the cam. Even if it was a limiting factor you’d still get a few psi. What supercharger are you using?
Can you delete the blow off valve temporarily? You’ll need to do process of elimination. Maybe the blower is too small for your engine but I doubt that would keep you from seeing at least a little boost. Are you using a 2 bar map? Is the ve table scaled for higher than 105kpa? Are you using a boost guage? Are you running real rich? What’s your timing at? Who’s tuning it? Can you by pass the intercooler? Do you have an intake leak? A lot of aftermarket intakes require you use flatter bolts in the valley cover. If you don’t it holds the intake up ever so slightly. I had this happen to me once not knowing. Did you block off all of the vent vacuum ports or put check valves in the ones that need it? My throttle body had a fitting that connected a hose from the valve cover to the throttle body for crankcase evacuation. I had to block that off and vent the crankcase into a filtered catch can. Can you post pics of your install and setup?
Im using a power dyne bd-11,Yes ive already deleted the bov temporarily. I have a map sensor with 0102j06 numbered on it, not sure if its a two bar though. on the scanner ive scaled the max kpa to be 155 on the table. im using a bosch mechanical boost gauge too, im not running rich from what i see. timing is around 15-16 at idle, 35 after 2000 rpms, no one is tuning it , i just have it hooked up to a obd2 scanner in live view mode.I bypassed the intercooler already. I don't think i have an intake leak, the car drives fine and no issues that an intake leak would bring but i will check the intake for leaks thoroughly tomorrow after work.
i blocked all open vacuum ports, (ran the hose from left side of TB to driver side valve cover to the pcv valve, passenger side valve cover vacuum port has a small breather on it) i tapped in my boost gauge to my brake booster line coming out from the back of the intake. where would i need check valves at?
here are some pics of when i was putting it together. ill see if i can post some videos too.
Boost gauge
live view 1
live view 2
Last edited by Javi7808; Nov 5, 2018 at 09:09 PM.
I would find another tap on the intake and verify map pressures with a diagnostic mechanical gauge. Some auto parts stores may even loan them out for free. Seems like the MAP sensor is either pegged out or not scaled correctly in the tune.
1) just because you have the ve scaled in your scanner does not mean it’s like that in you ecm. You must have a custom operating system to go past 105kpa in the factory ecm
2) you need to make sure you have a 2 bar map. With out, it won’t show boost correctly
3) you cannot have that throttle body hose going to the valve cover like that. Your blowing boost into the crankcase
4) you need to be tapped into the hose before the check valve for your boost guage.
Personally id use the smaller vacuum port in the rear of the intake. The one that goes to the vacuum line for your ac. But before that little check valve.
You really need to be able to tune this car or bring it to a tuner. First thing is you need an operating system that supports boost. You don’t HAVE TO HAVE it, you can fudge fueling, but it’s not even close to being the correct way to do it. A custom operating system is available free with hp tuners and has a 2 bar capability that allows you to set timing and fueling according to boost pressure. I’m no professional but I do tune my own stuff and other people’s stuff successfully. I’ve only done one supercharged vehicle and one turbocharged vehicle. But I know what needs to be done.
2) you need to make sure you have a 2 bar map. With out, it won’t show boost correctly
3) you cannot have that throttle body hose going to the valve cover like that. Your blowing boost into the crankcase
4) you need to be tapped into the hose before the check valve for your boost guage.
Personally id use the smaller vacuum port in the rear of the intake. The one that goes to the vacuum line for your ac. But before that little check valve.
You really need to be able to tune this car or bring it to a tuner. First thing is you need an operating system that supports boost. You don’t HAVE TO HAVE it, you can fudge fueling, but it’s not even close to being the correct way to do it. A custom operating system is available free with hp tuners and has a 2 bar capability that allows you to set timing and fueling according to boost pressure. I’m no professional but I do tune my own stuff and other people’s stuff successfully. I’ve only done one supercharged vehicle and one turbocharged vehicle. But I know what needs to be done.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
i dont think I have a 2 bar. I’ve ordered one this morning already. I used a scanner to log MAP;
https://youtu.be/aPoRhdqasOE
along with a mechanical Bosch vacuum/boost gauge to get the readings until now
Restricted User
Joined: Mar 2014
Posts: 7,192
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From: Ohio
I like how your AFR, TPS, and load don't change at all on your scanner when you rev.
Get rid of the scanner. It's more of a diagnostic tool than anything, and should NOT be used in this situation.
Get rid of the scanner. It's more of a diagnostic tool than anything, and should NOT be used in this situation.
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Verdad Gallardo Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
haha! I know it sucks for what I’m using it for. It’s not mine though it’s somebody else’s and yeah, it’s pretty much a diagnostic tool. I don’t really have any other way of data logging, I’m trying to get that hp tuner kit soon.
I just went back through this thread. Heres what I gathered.
1) car was modded when bought. I imagine it was tuned for those mods.
2) Installed supercharger. Nothing mentioned about retuning the car. YOU CANNOT JUST ADD A SUPERCHARGER and not retune. You will lean the engine out and cause catastrophic damage.
3) theres no 2 bar sensor. So you will not be able to read boost.
Please tell me that I'm wrong on #2, that you did retune the car.
1) car was modded when bought. I imagine it was tuned for those mods.
2) Installed supercharger. Nothing mentioned about retuning the car. YOU CANNOT JUST ADD A SUPERCHARGER and not retune. You will lean the engine out and cause catastrophic damage.
3) theres no 2 bar sensor. So you will not be able to read boost.
Please tell me that I'm wrong on #2, that you did retune the car.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
I just went back through this thread. Heres what I gathered.
1) car was modded when bought. I imagine it was tuned for those mods.
2) Installed supercharger. Nothing mentioned about retuning the car. YOU CANNOT JUST ADD A SUPERCHARGER and not retune. You will lean the engine out and cause catastrophic damage.
3) theres no 2 bar sensor. So you will not be able to read boost.
Please tell me that I'm wrong on #2, that you did retune the car.
1) car was modded when bought. I imagine it was tuned for those mods.
2) Installed supercharger. Nothing mentioned about retuning the car. YOU CANNOT JUST ADD A SUPERCHARGER and not retune. You will lean the engine out and cause catastrophic damage.
3) theres no 2 bar sensor. So you will not be able to read boost.
Please tell me that I'm wrong on #2, that you did retune the car.
i bought the car car with the blower installed all I did was install an intercooler and a bov, and fixed minor problems it had. The car was tuned with the blower before I bought it. I found the receipt In The glove box and called the place to confirm.
I recently bought my 04 gto with an lq9 6.0 swap. I knew it was cammed but the owner didint know what cam it had when I bought it. After replacing the clutch and rear main seal I saw the back of the camshaft from the rear of the engine. I looked up the part number stamped and found it was a Howard’s cam
Here’s the specs:
howards cam rattler
Cam Style:
Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:
2,200-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
226
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
234
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
226 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
275
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
282
Advertised Duration:
275 int./282 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 int./0.525 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
109
My question is, will this cam work well with my centrifugal supercharger that I’m installing? Or will it hinder any performance?
Here’s the specs:
howards cam rattler
Cam Style:
Hydraulic roller tappet
Basic Operating RPM Range:
2,200-6,500
Intake Duration at 050 inch Lift:
226
Exhaust Duration at 050 inch Lift:
234
Duration at 050 inch Lift:
226 int./234 exh.
Advertised Intake Duration:
275
Advertised Exhaust Duration:
282
Advertised Duration:
275 int./282 exh.
Intake Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 in.
Exhaust Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 in.
Valve Lift with Factory Rocker Arm Ratio:
0.525 int./0.525 exh.
Lobe Separation (degrees):
109
My question is, will this cam work well with my centrifugal supercharger that I’m installing? Or will it hinder any performance?
Have you driven it yet? If you're just lightly revving it to look for boost you probably wont see boost since there will still be vacuum in the intake and that will hold the BOV open.
You said the only changes were the intercooler and BOV. Was it making boost before? If so the only issue may be that the BOV is staying open, which could be happening from either not dropping vacuum due to how you're revving it or it not being adjusted right.
You said the only changes were the intercooler and BOV. Was it making boost before? If so the only issue may be that the BOV is staying open, which could be happening from either not dropping vacuum due to how you're revving it or it not being adjusted right.
Thread Starter
On The Tree
Joined: Nov 2017
Posts: 134
Likes: 1
well, basically I had to install the intercooler and a new bov (a tial q w/6lb spring for blowers) the guy had the blower hooked directly to the throttle body with a small hks bov in between. Also had to take it off and reposition it when I first got it, basically turn it a little clockwise so I can fit the intercooler pipe on it. Sorry for not being clear at first.