Dren

LS1 team,
99 Trans Am, 6 spd, WS6. Question on a Cam choice. Good or okay choice of a 218/224 528,535 114 lobe? Car already has installed headers, high flow cats, and magnaflow catback?
Thanks

G Atsma

I'd be thinking of putting a set of 243/799 heads on to really make a cam like that work.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

Odd cam and kinda small ish.

Go to Texas Speed, BTR, Cam motion, WS6store, and Summits websites and look at their cams. They make excellent cams, all pretty much better than that one.

I would look more in the range of something like a 226-229 intake duration, 230-235 exh duration, 600/600 lift, 112 ish LSA.

If you want a wilder cam you can go low 230's on the intake upper 230's exhaust. If you want extreme look at upper 230's intake and 240's exhaust, I would not go that high though, just gives up so much low end and driveability.

Dren

Found more info. Car dyno'd 347 hp / 353 torque at wheels. Torque reaches 350 and stays right there from 3-5K rpms then drops off slowly. Aren't average numbers about the same for stock ones, due to LS1 low estimates of crank hp ratings?
Thanks

wannafbody

iTrader: (2)

I agree, if you are going to spend the money, get a BTR stage 2 or Cam Motion Titan 4 or similar cam.

Dren

How much more would that give? Tune needed after?

99 Black Bird T/A

iTrader: (4)

The car making 347 whp / 353 wtq seems good considering the mod's. A good set of ported LS6/243/799 and a medium-sized cam should put the car well over 400 whp.

Unless there is some special circumstances, I'd select a different cam. That looks like the specs for the sort of cams in favor 20 years ago in 1999. Back then quality valve springs for an aggressive LS1 cam was an issue plus the timing software was less capable.

00pooterSS gave lot of excellent information.

The Summit Stage 1 LS Ghost Cam. 222/233 115+3, .600/.575 Lift is the smallest cam I'd consider these days unless local emissions testing is an issue etc.

Summitracing

What are you wanting to do with it and what kind of behavior are you looking for (idle etc). Weekend car or do you cruise on the highway in 6th alot?

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

Tune after a cam? you must be new to this.....yes you need a tune.

check out the summit stage one ghost cam. Made over 400 rear in mavns car.

00pooterSS

iTrader: (40)

To answer your question on stock power... My bone stock auto dyoned at 299 to the tire, and that was inline with others. 6 speed manual cars were doing around 315 to the tire back in my LS f body days.

Mine with a LS6 intake, long tube headers and tune did 353, but it also had a stall converter so it would dyno higher if it didn't or if it were a manual trans.

Yours likely does 350 due to the headers and a tune.

Dren

Weekend toy, <1000 miles a year. Work would be from second to fourth gear.

Dren

Yes, new to game and wanting to play. Will check. Thanks

Utinator

That's a decent cam if you plan on adding a turbo later on. If you plan to stay N/A, then a bigger cam would be preferred.

The specs you provided will give you -7 degrees of overlap. You usually want +2 to +4 degrees of overlap in an N/A street build.

Utinator

This is the most informative "cam video" I have found on Youtube:
Enjoy!

Kfxguy

iTrader: (1)

maybe you didn’t see Mavn thread. N/a he made over 440rwhp out of a stock bottom end ls1. That’s better than most bigger na specific cams, it’s not rowdy and it drives good, easy to tune and his car ran 11.10@122 all motor. 4th gen trans am. That’s enough convincing for me. Bigger ain’t always better.

Utinator

Yes, I saw that. He had to do A LOT of other mods to get there. It wasn't just the cam. So, I guess we need more info from the original poster. It's difficult to speculate what cam is best, when we don't know the end goal(s).

Summitracing

One of the best things you can do is work with your local chassis dyno tuner and have a discussion with them on their ability to give you the behavior you're looking for. Based on the words "toy" and "6-speed" and "2nd to 4th" tells you like highway pulls. It sounds like the top end is relatively stock yet (manifold and heads). This tells us you'd probably be pulling the lever at 7k rpm. WIth that being the case, our stage 2 SUM-8707 is the one that will probably make you happiest. It's a 226/238 113 + 3 .600/.600. A nice set of beehives like the TFS-16918-16 and you'll be running very strong. That cam will be fairly easy for most tuners to work with but keep in mind it may push past the HP limits of your factory injectors. Your tuner will recommend a set of injectors that are characterized (like LS3's) and this will help him give you excellent drivability. Bigger injectors give you the ability to do heads/intake etc. later on if you wanted.