Oil pump wearing out?
#1
Oil pump wearing out?
My LS1 makes about 32-33psi cold idle 17-18psi warm idle and 25-30psi warm cruise and 55-56psi warm at wide open throttle with 10w-30 oil which is low compared to some that I’ve seen although it’s above the 6-10psi per 1000rpm guideline I’ve seen, could it be the oil pump is just worn from higher mileage? Or another issue?
I did just just recently change the oil and had no metal residue in the oil or oil filter so I don’t think it’s a bearing issue
i really don’t wanna have to do an oil pump right now as this car is 1. currently my daily driver and 2. I plan on camming it later in the year and don’t wanna have to tear the motor down in the car twice
could I go to a 15w-40 oil or similar? Or should I just buck up and do the pump now?
I did just just recently change the oil and had no metal residue in the oil or oil filter so I don’t think it’s a bearing issue
i really don’t wanna have to do an oil pump right now as this car is 1. currently my daily driver and 2. I plan on camming it later in the year and don’t wanna have to tear the motor down in the car twice
could I go to a 15w-40 oil or similar? Or should I just buck up and do the pump now?
#2
I don't think the oil pump is your issue, nor the bearings. A sudden drop in pressure like this makes me want to think a leaking o-ring on the pickup tube or something of that nature.
Do not go to a more viscous oil chasing oil pressure. That creates more problems than what you're dealing with already.
In any case, get ready to drop the oil pan. Given that you have sufficient oil pressure still, it's not something I'd stress too much about. It should still be looked into, but your engine isn't going to seize at that pressure.
Honestly, your current pressure is exactly what I shoot for on a new engine.
Do not go to a more viscous oil chasing oil pressure. That creates more problems than what you're dealing with already.
In any case, get ready to drop the oil pan. Given that you have sufficient oil pressure still, it's not something I'd stress too much about. It should still be looked into, but your engine isn't going to seize at that pressure.
Honestly, your current pressure is exactly what I shoot for on a new engine.
#3
TECH Senior Member
I really don't see an issue here.
#4
I don't think the oil pump is your issue, nor the bearings. A sudden drop in pressure like this makes me want to think a leaking o-ring on the pickup tube or something of that nature.
Do not go to a more viscous oil chasing oil pressure. That creates more problems than what you're dealing with already.
In any case, get ready to drop the oil pan. Given that you have sufficient oil pressure still, it's not something I'd stress too much about. It should still be looked into, but your engine isn't going to seize at that pressure.
Honestly, your current pressure is exactly what I shoot for on a new engine.
Do not go to a more viscous oil chasing oil pressure. That creates more problems than what you're dealing with already.
In any case, get ready to drop the oil pan. Given that you have sufficient oil pressure still, it's not something I'd stress too much about. It should still be looked into, but your engine isn't going to seize at that pressure.
Honestly, your current pressure is exactly what I shoot for on a new engine.
Thats good to hear, This will make it a little easier to sleep at night haha
#5
Oil pressure is a lot like money. There's only so much you really need, and the rest is just for showing off.
The bare minimum pressure spec'd by GM is just 5.6 psi at 1000 rpm. I go for 2-3x that amount just to be safe or 12-18 psi at 1000 rpm. That's more than enough pressure to keep oil supplied throughout the engine. More than that is just robbing power and straining the oil pump.
The bare minimum pressure spec'd by GM is just 5.6 psi at 1000 rpm. I go for 2-3x that amount just to be safe or 12-18 psi at 1000 rpm. That's more than enough pressure to keep oil supplied throughout the engine. More than that is just robbing power and straining the oil pump.
#6
12 Second Club
I bought my '98 ss in 2000 with 9500 miles, in 19 years of ownership, and 750 some odd 1/4 mile passes, the oil pressure has never wavered; 22 lbs. Hot idle, 44 lbs. Cold start up, and has never exceeded around 50 lbs. At wot. This has always been in the back of my mind, but I always find oil on rockers and in head valley's when I take the rocker covers off, so I let her buck. Good to know I'm not the only one with "low" oil pressure.
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#8
11 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
If this engine has many miles on it then some wear is certain. O-ring on the pickup tube could be worn to the point that air is getting by decreasing oil pressure just as bearing wear has gotten to the point that your losing oil pressure. Running a heavier oil will increase the pressure some and I don't see that as a problem but its just a (X::X) on the problem. I've seen a sludge'd 5.3 that the screen in the oil pick up tube was caked in oil deposits and causing a restriction. You can keep squeezing what you can out of it but start preparing for an overhaul.
#9
If this engine has many miles on it then some wear is certain. O-ring on the pickup tube could be worn to the point that air is getting by decreasing oil pressure just as bearing wear has gotten to the point that your losing oil pressure. Running a heavier oil will increase the pressure some and I don't see that as a problem but its just a (X::X) on the problem. I've seen a sludge'd 5.3 that the screen in the oil pick up tube was caked in oil deposits and causing a restriction. You can keep squeezing what you can out of it but start preparing for an overhaul.
#10
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
It might be worth checking with a mechanical gauge first
The gauge in the car isn't always reliable.
Also if there is flicker in the headlights and bouncing needles in the gauge cluster ever few seconds it can be the alternator is failing (voltage regulator). My TA appeared to have flickering oil pressure and it was actually a failing alternator.
The gauge in the car isn't always reliable.
Also if there is flicker in the headlights and bouncing needles in the gauge cluster ever few seconds it can be the alternator is failing (voltage regulator). My TA appeared to have flickering oil pressure and it was actually a failing alternator.
#13
TECH Senior Member
#17
TECH Senior Member
iTrader: (4)
My LS1 makes about 32-33psi cold idle 17-18psi warm idle and 25-30psi warm cruise and 55-56psi warm at wide open throttle with 10w-30 oil which is low compared to some that I’ve seen although it’s above the 6-10psi per 1000rpm guideline I’ve seen, could it be the oil pump is just worn from higher mileage? Or another issue?
I did just just recently change the oil and had no metal residue in the oil or oil filter so I don’t think it’s a bearing issue
i really don’t wanna have to do an oil pump right now as this car is 1. currently my daily driver and 2. I plan on camming it later in the year and don’t wanna have to tear the motor down in the car twice
could I go to a 15w-40 oil or similar? Or should I just buck up and do the pump now?
I did just just recently change the oil and had no metal residue in the oil or oil filter so I don’t think it’s a bearing issue
i really don’t wanna have to do an oil pump right now as this car is 1. currently my daily driver and 2. I plan on camming it later in the year and don’t wanna have to tear the motor down in the car twice
could I go to a 15w-40 oil or similar? Or should I just buck up and do the pump now?
In any cash, depending on the age and condition of the mechanical gauge it may not be trustworthy either.
However, at this point I don't think there an issue based on what's been presented.