Cam question??
Cam question?? I have an internally stock car and want to change that. I want my car to still be my daily driver, but have some power for my trips to the 1/4. I'm pretty much an amatuer when it comes to the internal part of an engine, so I would like to know what I might need to install a new cam (lifters,rods,rockers,springs???). I don't mind losing a little gas mileage to gain performance...so any help provided will be greatly appreciated.
Gabe
Gabe
Springs are an absolute must. Rods are nice, retainers are nice, and rockers aren't needed. Never done one myself, but I've been hastling these guys w/ the same questions for 2 months. 
#1 question if do you have LS1Edit or access to someone who can tune your car after you get the cam? Your new cam WILL NOT run right without a retune. If it "runs" (drives) you will still be leaving power and fuel economy on the table. 
When you say daily driver, how much can you deal with?
For large majority of people, the 220 or 224 range cams are about the most they would be happy with on a daily driver (I had a TR224 that I really liked). Others want no idle problems so they go <220 while others want more power/don't mind idle problems so they can go into the 230s.
210-219 duration cams = figure stock-ish like idle (little to no lope)
220-228 duration cams = mild lope
229-236 duration cams = heavy/aggressive lope
237+ duration cams = don't even think about it
The other thing is A4s like higher LSA (114 vs. 112) due to idle quality. M6 cars idle at a faster RPM (unless you have a higher stall) so that helps. We can also "catch" our engines if they start to die (quick slap of the throttle when sitting at a light). The 114 will make less peak power (dyno number) but will make more power under the curve.
New valve springs are a must. I personally say "no less than the 918". The LS6 spring is only good for GM cams.
Pushrods are REALLY nice. The stock ones will flex and can bend under higher spring pressures/ramp rates.
Rocker arms are not needed.
If you are doing heads at the same time then I would say go on and do some higher performance lifters. The stockers "work" but I had problems with them at 35K and by 50K they were dead (cam went in at 25K miles).
I always tell people to do a new timing chain (stocker has lots of slack in it) and a ported LS6 pump.
Finally if you do heads, don't waste your time with stock GM bolts. They are a PITA. At a min, use ARP bolts. I like studs as they not only provide really strong clamp force but they also act as a guide when installing the head (yes, heads can be removed/installed in an F-body with a block that has studs).
When you say daily driver, how much can you deal with?
For large majority of people, the 220 or 224 range cams are about the most they would be happy with on a daily driver (I had a TR224 that I really liked). Others want no idle problems so they go <220 while others want more power/don't mind idle problems so they can go into the 230s.
210-219 duration cams = figure stock-ish like idle (little to no lope)
220-228 duration cams = mild lope
229-236 duration cams = heavy/aggressive lope
237+ duration cams = don't even think about it
The other thing is A4s like higher LSA (114 vs. 112) due to idle quality. M6 cars idle at a faster RPM (unless you have a higher stall) so that helps. We can also "catch" our engines if they start to die (quick slap of the throttle when sitting at a light). The 114 will make less peak power (dyno number) but will make more power under the curve.
New valve springs are a must. I personally say "no less than the 918". The LS6 spring is only good for GM cams.
Pushrods are REALLY nice. The stock ones will flex and can bend under higher spring pressures/ramp rates.
Rocker arms are not needed.
If you are doing heads at the same time then I would say go on and do some higher performance lifters. The stockers "work" but I had problems with them at 35K and by 50K they were dead (cam went in at 25K miles).
I always tell people to do a new timing chain (stocker has lots of slack in it) and a ported LS6 pump.
Finally if you do heads, don't waste your time with stock GM bolts. They are a PITA. At a min, use ARP bolts. I like studs as they not only provide really strong clamp force but they also act as a guide when installing the head (yes, heads can be removed/installed in an F-body with a block that has studs).
Last edited by 2001CamaroGuy; Jul 12, 2004 at 02:41 PM.
