There's a difference between racing and have a drag car.....and it's well documented on here that plenty of people have gone way faster than your car on a 10 bolt without issue. Just cause you can't do something doesn't mean it's not possible.....without dumping a bunch of money into the rear end.

 

Of course it's possible to use a 10 bolt. The issue lies with the fact that it's a ticking time bomb. It's not a matter of if it will last but how long. There are plenty of people making 1000whp on a sbe 5.3L but we all know eventually it's going to die. Not dependable. Not reliable. But hey, if you want to run a 10 bolt more power to you, I'll stick with my 9" with the confidence that everytime I make a hit I won't need to have a tow truck on speed dial.

 

All about your risk aversion and capabilities....10 bolts and 4l60e and SBE can all last a long time if you know what to avoid. Others prefer a 9 inch, th400, and forged parts. Everyone has a choice.

 

Avoid what? Launching hard?

 

You do realize you're just looking ignorant right? Again, try to follow....just because you can't do something doesn't mean it's not possible. You always love to argue that because YOU can't do something, it must not be possible. XX overlap means it won't drive well, 10 bolts are all trash, etc. Please go back to your podcasts while others actually build stuff that works.

 

Ah okay, so now because I am countering your arguments with my opinions and what those around me have discovered you result to personal attack. Well that's okay I'm I'm to snowflakes like you. You told me you have to know what to avoid to avoid breakage. The only plausible explanation would be avoiding a proper hard launch. My cars run hard and work just fine. i dont own a speed shop but I can race and I build my own vehicles the way I want to and it requires dozens of hours of research and havin GB multiple long conversations with others who eat and breathe LS for a living. I'm proud of the local ls guys around my parts. They build stuff that would crap all over what you got every single day and I would trust the info they provide over this ls1tech internet wisdom. But hey, keep running 11s with your 550whp procharged f body. 10 bolt sucks. End of story.

 

It's so sad that I know exactly what you're going to do before you do it....like searching for "a walk in the park thread"? So sad you're that predictable. But you leave out the intake/exhaust/stall car that cut 1.6 sixty foot on that dreaded 10 bolt. Too bad you're relying on your "friends" builds and cars instead of your own stuff. I don't have a race shop either...just build stuff to try instead of listening to talking heads on podcasts like you. Keep being a follower instead of trying stuff and learning from real life.

 

Since when is taking advice from those who are legends of their craft foolish? Would you tell Duttwieler or Godbold that they are foolish? Did you put your hand on a hot stove to see if it really hurt because you didn't believe it when others told you so? My friends dont build my cars. I build my cars out of a 1-1/2 car garage.

 

Do you need someone on the internet telling you a10 bolt is trash and everyone should spend thousands to replace it when you've experienced that it's perfectly competent on at least half a dozen f bodies?

 

Hey whatever, if it works for you then awesome. Doesn't work for me or anyone around here on my side of the street so you do you. Id rather not live in fear and launch as hard as I please.

 

Exactly why I said everyone has a choice on what to spend their money on.

 

I just did a build real close to what you are doing. I’m running a vrx5, yank 3600, and 3.73 gears. I originally had 3.23’s. If I had to do it over I would have went with a 4000 stall and 3.90’s or a little smaller cam that pulls in the rpm range my converter and gears work at. The car drives great but when I do a WOT pull the rpm’s drop a little too much during upshifts for the cams power curve. The ms3 is pretty close to what I’m running. Personally, I think there are a lot better cams for your build. Also, your ten bolt will have a long life on street tires. On drag tires and a 3600 stall I think you’ll still be fine. I pounded a 10 bolt with a 450rwhp m6 on mt drag radials for 2 years and the 10 bolt never left me down. The factory aluminum driveshaft did though. That was nasty when it let loose!!🤣🤣🤣

 

I still have a 10 bolt on my car M6 car and a Torquer V2 cam. I chirp my tires shifting from 1-2 and 2-3 all the time, hasn't let go yet.

The car is very street-able with this cam, even with stock gears. No bucking at 1200 rpm in 6th gear. I wouldn't do a cam any smaller than that, although it depends on where you want your power to be though and how high you're comfortable revving to.

 

Question... Whats the mileage on the bottom end? What heads you running? I know the MS3 isn't the biggest but you might want to check for PTV clearance if your heads are milled... I pulled my ls1 to do a swap with 120k, had it down to a shortblock and pulled the trigger on tearing it down the rest the way... New bearing/rings/ARP Rod and Main Bolts, but thats just me lol

 

I've had at least 2 auto 10 bolt cars go 1.6 at full weight on drag radials without a failure. I've seen someone break theirs 3 times in a 6 speed car on the street no drag radials. I really think it was because of their tunnel mounted torque arm.