arp hd std trq specs asap?
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i need the arp head studs torque sequience. the steps were you start low and go higher. i think the final reading should be 70ft-lbs and for the small ones like 35ft-lbs. need info asap
thanks
thanks
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</font><blockquote><font size="1" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">quote:</font><hr /><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Originally posted by sleeper silverado:
<strong> i need the arp head studs torque sequience. the steps were you start low and go higher. i think the final reading should be 70ft-lbs and for the small ones like 35ft-lbs. need info asap
thanks </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Here ya go
Apply the moly lube that came with the ARP bolts to the threads, as well as under the head of the bolt and both sides of the washer. Only a light coating is needed. If you don't have the included moly lube, put some motor oil on the threads.
Torque all 15mm bolts to 30lbft in the torque sequence above.
OPTIONAL: Safety check! One one side of the motor install 2 pushrods (one exhaust, one intake), the rocker pedestal, and two rockers...then turn the motor over by hand two full turns. While this method wont be exact, if the engine didn't stop when you were turning it you most likely installed the cam correctly. If it felt like it stopped at one point and wouldn't go further, chances are a piston is hitting a valve and you need to disassemble things and go back to the dot to dot part, OR, your cam is huge and the piston to valve clearance is ZERO (it'd take a really big cam for this to happen)
Do a second pass at 50lbft, and finally a 3rd at 70lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.
<img src="http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/fbody/heads.cam.pulley/pics/torquebolts.jpg" alt=" - " />
<strong> i need the arp head studs torque sequience. the steps were you start low and go higher. i think the final reading should be 70ft-lbs and for the small ones like 35ft-lbs. need info asap
thanks </strong></font><hr /></blockquote><font size="2" face="Verdana, Helvetica, sans-serif">Here ya go
Apply the moly lube that came with the ARP bolts to the threads, as well as under the head of the bolt and both sides of the washer. Only a light coating is needed. If you don't have the included moly lube, put some motor oil on the threads.
Torque all 15mm bolts to 30lbft in the torque sequence above.
OPTIONAL: Safety check! One one side of the motor install 2 pushrods (one exhaust, one intake), the rocker pedestal, and two rockers...then turn the motor over by hand two full turns. While this method wont be exact, if the engine didn't stop when you were turning it you most likely installed the cam correctly. If it felt like it stopped at one point and wouldn't go further, chances are a piston is hitting a valve and you need to disassemble things and go back to the dot to dot part, OR, your cam is huge and the piston to valve clearance is ZERO (it'd take a really big cam for this to happen)
Do a second pass at 50lbft, and finally a 3rd at 70lbft.
Finally install the 5 smaller ARP bolts and torque them to 22lbft.
<img src="http://www.ls1howto.com/howto/fbody/heads.cam.pulley/pics/torquebolts.jpg" alt=" - " />
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Is this what the tq specs come out to be? The manual say to tq to ??? then another 90 degress and another. Or are these for ARP head bolts? I have a set ordered for my head swap.
Thank you
Wayne
Thank you
Wayne
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Arp studs are torque to 70 ft. lbs with their moly lube. They are not like factory torque to yield bolts, so dont use service manual torque specs. Torque heads than back off and retorque to help settle gaskets.