383 LS1 stroker break down need more power???
Will see what this set up will make if I’m still itching for more then I might look into doing different heads.
I knew going the 383 route wasn’t going be the easiest way to make big power, like most the 400+ ci. I do love having a motor that’s period correct to 4th gen fbody.
If you can't make 470 with that take it out back and shoot it.
Oh and the super damper sounds like a great idea, under drive be nice to free up a little power. Revving it to 7k may make it a little faster depending where you land in RPM when you go to the next gear.
What wheels and tires are on it? A lightweight drag setup can make a considerable difference also. Running bias ply slicks will free up a lot of weight and help that 10 bolt live also.
I have to say I like your style, running a stroker and a 10 bolt with a 6 speed.
Oh and the super damper sounds like a great idea, under drive be nice to free up a little power. Revving it to 7k may make it a little faster depending where you land in RPM when you go to the next gear.
What wheels and tires are on it? A lightweight drag setup can make a considerable difference also. Running bias ply slicks will free up a lot of weight and help that 10 bolt live also.
I have to say I like your style, running a stroker and a 10 bolt with a 6 speed.
Lol Blind Faith it is, I’m hoping no digs or slicks it’ll last.... If/when this built 10-bolt goes I’ll probably do a 8.8 so I can actually do some drag for fun again.
For your driving you don't need slicks and avoiding digs is a good idea but I'll go on a little rant about slicks anyway lol
It's counter intuitive, but slicks greatly help the 10 bolt last. The soft sidewalls absorb tons of the shock load, shock loads are what break them. That's why autos don't break the 10 bolts near as much as a 6 speed, no shock from banging the clutch. Hooking isn't the problem, the slam from banging the clutch breaks them. Picture it like pushing on something vs hitting the same thing with a hammer. Try pushing a nail in, that's what an auto does, it pushes, clutches hammer. The soft side wall slicks absorb the shock. I know several people that have broken rear ends on street tires and drag radials that had no broken parts with slicks, even launching at the track.
Think about it, you can hammer it in first with it in gear, it hooks and goes and doesn't break. Pop the clutch from a stop though.. Some guys are real good at slipping the clutch on a launch and can make them last too, but that's pretty hard to do and one oopsie is all it takes.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Sep 5, 2019 at 07:06 PM.
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time
I broke a 10 bolt.. with an auto.. just hammering it from a roll in first gear. It was in the middle of the day on a busy street and pieces shot out of the rear end cover. It blew up in spectacular fashion. Funny thing is I drove it back to the shop about 8 or so miles away with it trying to lock and banging the whole time. I got it there and pulled the cover off, pulled some chunks out, slapped the cover on and banged the holes in the cover back in with a hammer and put silicone over them and drove it to the rear end shop a good 10+ miles away lol.
I broke a 10 bolt.. with an auto.. just hammering it from a roll in first gear. It was in the middle of the day on a busy street and pieces shot out of the rear end cover. It blew up in spectacular fashion. Funny thing is I drove it back to the shop about 8 or so miles away with it trying to lock and banging the whole time. I got it there and pulled the cover off, pulled some chunks out, slapped the cover on and banged the holes in the cover back in with a hammer and put silicone over them and drove it to the rear end shop a good 10+ miles away lol.
When you said you broke a 9 inch I was like whaaaa. The yoke I can understand though, the rear itself is a much harder thing to break








