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LS1 rebuild advise for road course E36
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LS1 rebuild advise for road course E36 Hi All,
I wanted to start this thread in order to get some advice on the rebuild of my LS1 for my E36 M3 track car that I am in the process of converting. Ive been slacking on starting it for the past 4 years or so, especially since my S52 has held up on the road course without any issues so far (230K miles). I do want to say Thank You to all the contributors to this forum. Without the members help I would have never dared to take on a project like this.
Having said that, if you see that I am doing something wrong - don’t hesitate to let me know.
My overall goals:
Rebuild this LS1 to be dependable, safe, with the same power level as it currently is. I hope to not do anything with the bottom end if not needed. Engine was built 30K miles ago by Lingenfelter. #7 exhaust spring broke. This is how I purchased it.
E36 M3 is a dedicated track car. HPDE and Time Trial. No plans to race so far. Just a fun weekend hobby. I do love the E36 platform and do like the idea of an American V8. So combining the two in a fun weekend toy project seems like cool thing to do. For me at least. I am sure not everyone shares the same views.
Engine
Car
Subject
Engine
I wanted to start this thread in order to get some advice on the rebuild of my LS1 for my E36 M3 track car that I am in the process of converting. Ive been slacking on starting it for the past 4 years or so, especially since my S52 has held up on the road course without any issues so far (230K miles). I do want to say Thank You to all the contributors to this forum. Without the members help I would have never dared to take on a project like this.
Having said that, if you see that I am doing something wrong - don’t hesitate to let me know.
My overall goals:
Rebuild this LS1 to be dependable, safe, with the same power level as it currently is. I hope to not do anything with the bottom end if not needed. Engine was built 30K miles ago by Lingenfelter. #7 exhaust spring broke. This is how I purchased it.
E36 M3 is a dedicated track car. HPDE and Time Trial. No plans to race so far. Just a fun weekend hobby. I do love the E36 platform and do like the idea of an American V8. So combining the two in a fun weekend toy project seems like cool thing to do. For me at least. I am sure not everyone shares the same views.
Engine
- 2001 Corvette LS1 - purchased with a broken valve spring on cylinder #7
- LS6 intake manifold
- No A/C
- Prior built list - by Lingenfelter Performance Engineering (30K miles ago)
- GM LS1 block 3.900” bore
- Water jacket plugs, oil galley & cam bearings
- Mahle forged aluminum pistons - coated
- Mahle moly file fit rings - 1.5mm, 1.5mm, 3.0mm
- GM LS1 Crankshaft
- Speed Pro heavy duty rod bearings
- Speed Pro heavy duty main bearings
Options: - Comp Cams camshaft - 224/224 .581/.581 114 (print on cam 3722R-3722R - R114)
- Cloyes IRL
- Poly Dyne bearing coating rod & main
- Lingenfelter LS1 modified GM Oil pump debuted to improve flow
Car
- 1999 E36 M3
- CX Racing full install kit - Ive changed the bushings in the motor mounts to Energy Suspension (per another forum member recommendation) - bulk-2008 model
- Wiring Specialties harness
- T56 transmission
- Remote bleeder setup
- LS7 Clutch
- Coleman Racing aluminum driveshaft - length 44.5in, diameter - 3in
- JTR differential adapter, T56 yoke
- 3.91 differential
Subject
Engine
Last edited by gb1980; Mar 28, 2020 at 05:47 PM.
Thread Starter
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I have been working on compiling the parts list. I have ordered most and the parts are slowly trickling in.
If anyone sees something major that I am missing, please let me know
Parts Part number
Valley cover (LS6) 12577927
Valley cover PCV hose 12594779
Valley cover grommet plug 12568011
Tensioner and pulley ADO-12560344
Valve springs TFS-2500286P
Valve springs removal tool TFS-90306
Valve cover gaskets (2) 50504r
Push rods CCA-7955-1
Coil packs ADO-D580
coil brackets, ICT 551642
Water pump ADO-252-846
MAF 19330121
Truck MAF harness 108100
Head Gasket NAL-12498544
Head bolts - ARP ARP-134-3609
Thermostat (160*) LPE-L310015204
Starter 829200
Throttle cable TC-1000LS1U
Knock sensors 12589867
Knock sensors wiring harness 917033
ACDelco Pilot bearing ADO-CT1078
Intake manifold gasket FEL-MS92438
Fuel Filter/Regulator - Corvette C5 SUM-230150
Driveshaft 44.5 in long 16621
SPICER 2-3-6081X 2-3-6081X
JTR flange adapter
Clutch kit - LS7 LUK-04-216
LS7 Flywheel LUK-LFW191
Flywheel bolts ARP-330-2802
PP bolts ARP-134-2201
Oil dipstick and tube LOK-ED-5008
Improved Racing baffle
Oil pan Bolts ARP-134-6901
Oil pump. Road racing spec MEL-10296
Oil Pan gasket MAH-OS32241
intake tube 4in in and out 9781
Power Steering pump and pulley LS1FP Turnone
Harmonic balancer bolt
F body windage tray
Front timing cover kit FelPro FEL-TCS45993
Rear engine cover and main seal
Remote bleeder kit HRE-8287
Bleeder adapter AFC-7010-0007
GM Performance Crankshaft bolt 12557840
Camaro PCMwith vats delete and start up tune
F-Body accessories - alternator, tensioner pulley, Harmonic balancer - Auto Specialties Performance part # 948500. Slightly used
F-Body oil pan with pick up tube
If anyone sees something major that I am missing, please let me know
Parts Part number
Valley cover (LS6) 12577927
Valley cover PCV hose 12594779
Valley cover grommet plug 12568011
Tensioner and pulley ADO-12560344
Valve springs TFS-2500286P
Valve springs removal tool TFS-90306
Valve cover gaskets (2) 50504r
Push rods CCA-7955-1
Coil packs ADO-D580
coil brackets, ICT 551642
Water pump ADO-252-846
MAF 19330121
Truck MAF harness 108100
Head Gasket NAL-12498544
Head bolts - ARP ARP-134-3609
Thermostat (160*) LPE-L310015204
Starter 829200
Throttle cable TC-1000LS1U
Knock sensors 12589867
Knock sensors wiring harness 917033
ACDelco Pilot bearing ADO-CT1078
Intake manifold gasket FEL-MS92438
Fuel Filter/Regulator - Corvette C5 SUM-230150
Driveshaft 44.5 in long 16621
SPICER 2-3-6081X 2-3-6081X
JTR flange adapter
Clutch kit - LS7 LUK-04-216
LS7 Flywheel LUK-LFW191
Flywheel bolts ARP-330-2802
PP bolts ARP-134-2201
Oil dipstick and tube LOK-ED-5008
Improved Racing baffle
Oil pan Bolts ARP-134-6901
Oil pump. Road racing spec MEL-10296
Oil Pan gasket MAH-OS32241
intake tube 4in in and out 9781
Power Steering pump and pulley LS1FP Turnone
Harmonic balancer bolt
F body windage tray
Front timing cover kit FelPro FEL-TCS45993
Rear engine cover and main seal
Remote bleeder kit HRE-8287
Bleeder adapter AFC-7010-0007
GM Performance Crankshaft bolt 12557840
Camaro PCMwith vats delete and start up tune
F-Body accessories - alternator, tensioner pulley, Harmonic balancer - Auto Specialties Performance part # 948500. Slightly used
F-Body oil pan with pick up tube
Thread Starter
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So it begins. I started taking apart the engine. My original plan was to not take the heads off but do a leak down test and see if all holds up but I changed my mind and will be taking the heads off.
For now, took the valley cover off, front timing cover, oil pump, and rear cover. And started to take the rockers, brackets, and push rods off. JESEL rocker brackets did require a thin wall 13mm socket that I didnt have so I had to order it through Amazon.
What does everyone think of this damage on the rocker? Bearing seems to be ok. Do I 100% replace or possibly leave alone? Ive never dealt with the valvetrain myself therefore asking for an advice. I will also email JESEL with pics
For now, took the valley cover off, front timing cover, oil pump, and rear cover. And started to take the rockers, brackets, and push rods off. JESEL rocker brackets did require a thin wall 13mm socket that I didnt have so I had to order it through Amazon.
What does everyone think of this damage on the rocker? Bearing seems to be ok. Do I 100% replace or possibly leave alone? Ive never dealt with the valvetrain myself therefore asking for an advice. I will also email JESEL with pics
Last edited by gb1980; Mar 28, 2020 at 05:45 PM.
Thread Starter
Teching In
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Thread Starter
Teching In
Joined: Nov 2016
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So i decided to take the heads off today. Bad news. Bent exhaust valve on cyl #7.
Few questions now:
Is it ok to leave the piston alone after the clean up? Info that I get is that its ok as long as there are no raised/sharp edges/chunks or cracks
Anything else I need to do to the bottom end? I wanted to clean the carbon off and leave as is.
I will take the heads to the machine shop. What is the total scope of work there? New valve and valve seal or is there more to it?
Few questions now:
Is it ok to leave the piston alone after the clean up? Info that I get is that its ok as long as there are no raised/sharp edges/chunks or cracks
Anything else I need to do to the bottom end? I wanted to clean the carbon off and leave as is.
I will take the heads to the machine shop. What is the total scope of work there? New valve and valve seal or is there more to it?
Last edited by gb1980; Mar 28, 2020 at 05:38 PM.
Good you pulled the heads!
I would be tempted to pull that piston to make sure it didn’t collapse the ring land and bind up the top ring.
Quite a bit of carbon build up for 30k miles.
Ron
I would be tempted to pull that piston to make sure it didn’t collapse the ring land and bind up the top ring.
Quite a bit of carbon build up for 30k miles.
Ron
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Thread Starter
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Ron, short of pulling the piston, any other validation I can do to make sure there is no major damage? Ive read multiple opinions stating that this can just be left alone. I might still take the block to the machine shop for them to inspect.
Thanks
Thanks
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Piston's fine. Run it.
Long term road course use you should really add a crank scraper, trap door baffle, and restricted pushrods in addition to an accusump (if you dont have an accusump already). LS engines suck at oil control
Long term road course use you should really add a crank scraper, trap door baffle, and restricted pushrods in addition to an accusump (if you dont have an accusump already). LS engines suck at oil control
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For now, I am adding an Improved Racing oil pan baffle, and ~40 row oil cooler setup. No accusump or crank scraper yet. Ill see how my setup performs. But will look into your suggestions.
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I did some more digging since I was not aware of the "crank scraper". Does anyone have any experience with this Improved Racing Crank Scraper and Windage Tray kit? Is it worth it/required? I am using IR oil pan baffle.
Thanks
Thanks
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I have received my 12pt socket set so I was able to remove the connecting rod bolts and check the bearings. This is the first time I am looking at the crank and bearings in any engine.
How do you think they look?
How do you think they look?
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Thanks for the input. I am also looking into accusump options. I was just never aware of a crank scraper and its benefits. Trying to research it further.
Those bearings are fine. Aftermarket rods with the locating dowels do a better job of keeping the rod caps in place, which helps bearing wear. You’ll need to put the cap back on with correct torque or you’ll distort the big end and mess up bearing clearance.
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Thanks Scott. So you are saying that I have aftermarket rods due to the dowel pins being present? I was trying to find a way to determine that. Looks like the stock ones do not have them.
And got it on properly re-torquing.
And got it on properly re-torquing.
Yessir, those are aftermarket rods. Oem rods are “cracked cap” design, without dowels. Each and every “crack” is unique for each side of every Oem rod, which allows the cap to only go on one rod, one way. On the other hand, your dowelled rods will allow the cap to go on 180 degrees out, on any rod in the batch, so make sure you put cap back on with correct orientation. You’ll notice the rods have been hand numbered with an engraver. Match those sides up.
Last edited by Che70velle; Mar 31, 2020 at 04:26 PM. Reason: Smellcheck...
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Guys, question on my ARP connecting rod bolts. I have removed 4 of them to check the bearings. Can I safely reuse the same ARP 8740 bolts? I believe torqued to 45lbs wuth ARP lube or 30wt oil (have to confirm). I do not have any bolt measurements prior to the first install and I believe they were installed only once.
I have emailed ARP and they said that they have to be replaced vs most opinions state that its ok to reuse. Since I only removed 4 it would be nice to reuse of course but if its crucial to replace then I will have to.
Any advice?
I have emailed ARP and they said that they have to be replaced vs most opinions state that its ok to reuse. Since I only removed 4 it would be nice to reuse of course but if its crucial to replace then I will have to.
Any advice?
Guys, question on my ARP connecting rod bolts. I have removed 4 of them to check the bearings. Can I safely reuse the same ARP 8740 bolts? I believe torqued to 45lbs wuth ARP lube or 30wt oil (have to confirm). I do not have any bolt measurements prior to the first install and I believe they were installed only once.
I have emailed ARP and they said that they have to be replaced vs most opinions state that its ok to reuse. Since I only removed 4 it would be nice to reuse of course but if its crucial to replace then I will have to.
Any advice?
I have emailed ARP and they said that they have to be replaced vs most opinions state that its ok to reuse. Since I only removed 4 it would be nice to reuse of course but if its crucial to replace then I will have to.
Any advice?
You could mic one and compare it to a new one for length.