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Pushrod length and ptv

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Old May 19, 2020 | 12:47 PM
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Default Pushrod length and ptv

Ok guys I think I figured out my ptv. I used the pushrod checker and got it to 7.300 and that wasnt at 0 lash. I actually had a little lash on both valves. The intake had .010-.012 and the exhaust had .022-.024. So I added that in with my clay measurements for my ptv and should be .082-.085 intake and .100-.105 exhaust. I think i got that part in good shape.
Ok, now here is where my head is exploding. You are supposed to have around .040-.050 preload on the lifters, right? To get that amount I will need a 7.350 pushrod. Now, my biggest concern is that going to skew my measurements on ptv or will it be ok?
Let me know if I did that right or am I missing something or am I worrying too much. This is my first time doing this. I milled my heads .035 and am using a .045 gasket. The motor has an unknown cam in it (I made another post about that), that to me doesn't seem to be a big duration. I've been trying to take what I've learned on here and do it myself, but keep second guessing myself.
Or do I need to do things differently?

Last edited by brmz28; May 19, 2020 at 11:26 PM.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 05:10 PM
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You check PTV clearance at zero lash.
Then you add preload, it can be up to .100 with LS7 lifters and it will not change the PTV clearance unless you float the valves.

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Old May 19, 2020 | 05:36 PM
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PTV clearance doesn't change with preload, unless you put in so much that the valves can't close.

THIMK about it... changing the push rod length doesn't change the cam lift, eh?? Well it won't change PTV clearance either. As long as the PR length is within the range of preload that the lifters can accommodate, the valves move essentially exactly the same.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 06:19 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlackCamaro
You check PTV clearance at zero lash.
Then you add preload, it can be up to .100 with LS7 lifters and it will not change the PTV clearance unless you float the valves.
Yes I thought that after I did. Which I checked at valve tip and rocker and added that clearance to my ptv numbers. I'm still using original ls1 lifters. Thanks
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Old May 19, 2020 | 06:24 PM
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Originally Posted by RB04Av
PTV clearance doesn't change with preload, unless you put in so much that the valves can't close.

THIMK about it... changing the push rod length doesn't change the cam lift, eh?? Well it won't change PTV clearance either. As long as the PR length is within the range of preload that the lifters can accommodate, the valves move essentially exactly the same.
Ok, I set my pushrod checker to 7.350 on a regular lifter and only got about a half of a turn on the rocker bolt. Doesn't it take a whole turn to get .050 preload? It almost looked like the valve started to open then too. But it still seems like a 7.350 pushrod would do the trick, but I'm still leary.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 07:38 PM
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One whole turn of the rocker bolt is approx .078 preload. 3/4 turn is .058 preload. (not everyone likes this method but it will be close enough for a forum explanation.)
You might see the valve go down, then come back up as the lifter bleeds down.
So you're sure you're on the base circle? Are you sure the lifter is not bled down?
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Old May 19, 2020 | 08:26 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlackCamaro
One whole turn of the rocker bolt is approx .078 preload. 3/4 turn is .058 preload. (not everyone likes this method but it will be close enough for a forum explanation.)
You might see the valve go down, then come back up as the lifter bleeds down.
So you're sure you're on the base circle? Are you sure the lifter is not bled down?
Ok, so then with the half turn i should be .040 or a tad less. That's doable, yessir dead certain on it being on the base circle, but not for sure if the lifter bled down or not. I had them soaking in oil, so they should have been up right? I did not watch if the valve came back up though.
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Old May 19, 2020 | 08:56 PM
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This is what I copied off this site. I verified these once with a dial indicator. I know someone else might come on here and give me hell about this, but if you're not using a dial indicator counting turns is close enough.
Just make sure the lifter cup is all the way up before you start counting turns. It should be solid, not springy if it's pumped up enough.

This is turns VS preload

.50T = .039"
.75T = .058"
1.00T = .078"
1.25T = .098"
1.50T = .117"
1.75T = .137"
2.00T = .156"
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Old May 19, 2020 | 11:25 PM
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Ok, sounds good bud. I may just be on the right track. I will give one more check tomorrow if it's not pouring the rain again. Thanks a bunch.
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Old May 21, 2020 | 01:50 PM
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Originally Posted by BigBlackCamaro
This is what I copied off this site. I verified these once with a dial indicator. I know someone else might come on here and give me hell about this, but if you're not using a dial indicator counting turns is close enough.
Just make sure the lifter cup is all the way up before you start counting turns. It should be solid, not springy if it's pumped up enough.

This is turns VS preload

.50T = .039"
.75T = .058"
1.00T = .078"
1.25T = .098"
1.50T = .117"
1.75T = .137"
2.00T = .156"
Alright I finally got a break in the rain. Youd think that southwest Virginia is a rainforest now. Ok, when I made my last check that lifter was pumped all the way up. So, I got it and worked with it and yes bled off with a little over a half turn. I'm going to call this good. Thanks a bunch to you and rbo for the info and tricks. I feel much better now.
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