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Why is my 382 so slow?

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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 06:41 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
I agree some things on the car are not optimal but it still should run pretty well with that much motor and a 3800 stall. I had bolt ons only with a 3800 stall and would kill a v6 camaro.

The tune would be a major concern, and also making sure the basics are good (tune up, fuel filter, fuel pressure etc) and if all those things are good the cam could be off timing, or the tune is just so bad it's not working out. You really need some info to help sort this out though like the timing, air fuel ratio at wide open, be nice to know what it's actually putting down to the tires too.

In other words you could get by with that setup if need be due to budget, we've all been there. And if you really want it to be the best it can be then yeah I'd look at a different cam and intake, but I get the feeling something else is going on here.
12.8 AFR at WOT and 26° got some help with the tune from a friend that knows a little about HP tuners and we got it to actually feel like it pulls a little but definitely needs a real tuner
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 07:01 PM
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Originally Posted by THE CALIX
9.5 1/8th but it kept breaking up (had a vacuum leak and dint notice till i got home) but my old c10 with a cammed 5.3 and exhaust went 8.6
yea you should be 2 seconds faster than that in the 1/8th lol
what was your mph?
60ft I’m sure was horrible too
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 07:41 PM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by Ls7colorado
yea you should be 2 seconds faster than that in the 1/8th lol
what was your mph?
60ft I’m sure was horrible too
I coildnt tell you. I never got a good full pass fastest was like mid 80s but that doesn't give good info on what it should be
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 08:08 PM
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Besides all the other things mentioned, sometimes you can be down one cylinder on these things and not even know it (except it's slower than it should be). Have you checked all your plug wires? get an ohm meter and check the ohms resistance. They should all be similar. If one is high, it's no good. One or more ignition coil can also be dead.
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 08:31 PM
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Originally Posted by Launch
Besides all the other things mentioned, sometimes you can be down one cylinder on these things and not even know it (except it's slower than it should be). Have you checked all your plug wires? get an ohm meter and check the ohms resistance. They should all be similar. If one is high, it's no good. One or more ignition coil can also be dead.
I've changed plugs and wires I haven't tested it yet which is a wonderful idea!
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 09:39 PM
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Originally Posted by THE CALIX
I've changed plugs and wires I haven't tested it yet which is a wonderful idea!
best way to check is to get a water bottle and spray on the headers right at the flange and see if one is cold. Or use a heat gun
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by THE CALIX
12.8 AFR at WOT and 26° got some help with the tune from a friend that knows a little about HP tuners and we got it to actually feel like it pulls a little but definitely needs a real tuner
That actually sounds pretty good (afr and timing)

But 9.5 in the 1/8th is horribly bad. Really really bad. For reference my bolt on car ran 7.6, that was with a LS6 intake headers exhaust and a 3800 stall with 3.73 gears

But I also cut a 1.68 60 ft to 1.75, do you know what your 60 ft was?

I'm still wondering about cam timing. Been a lot of threads over the past year or so where people had a low power complaint that ended up being cam timing.

What is your exhaust setup ( the whole setup )

I agree on checking for dead cylinders, if you can't temp gun the primaries have someone hold the brake real good and hold the rpm about 1500 or so to get past the cam (since the cam essentially makes it misfire at idle) and unplug one injector at a time and see if it misfires when you do and stops misfiring when you plug it back in. If any cylinders don't respond check them out for a misfire.
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Old Jun 15, 2020 | 11:45 PM
  #28  
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
That actually sounds pretty good (afr and timing)

But 9.5 in the 1/8th is horribly bad. Really really bad. For reference my bolt on car ran 7.6, that was with a LS6 intake headers exhaust and a 3800 stall with 3.73 gears

But I also cut a 1.68 60 ft to 1.75, do you know what your 60 ft was?

I'm still wondering about cam timing. Been a lot of threads over the past year or so where people had a low power complaint that ended up being cam timing.

What is your exhaust setup ( the whole setup )

I agree on checking for dead cylinders, if you can't temp gun the primaries have someone hold the brake real good and hold the rpm about 1500 or so to get past the cam (since the cam essentially makes it misfire at idle) and unplug one injector at a time and see if it misfires when you do and stops misfiring when you plug it back in. If any cylinders don't respond check them out for a misfire.
I dont remember im sorry.

And yeah I should've degreed it and double checked everything when I had it out but I did it the sloppy way and just sent it. I'm about to tear it back out to redo exhaust so I'm just going to check over everything then

At that day it was a set of hooker 1 3/4 headers into an offroad y pipe into an off brand muffler that i couldn't tell you the name... soon to be itll be a set of speed engineering 1 7/8 headers (ik crappy but I've had good luck with the previous ones I've had) into a trial dual x pipe and i havent decided on mufflers yet.

I did the injector test early today all responded. I do own a heat gun so ill double check with that.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 07:22 AM
  #29  
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Or with 10.5 to 1 compression go forced induction, E85 and get a new tune

I'd ditch that LS1 intake fast as possible. It flows at least 20 cfm to 25 cfm less than an unported Fast 90/92. That's up potentially 30 to 45 hp difference.

The cam is a horrible match for the intake manifold and compression. Something like Cam Motion's Stealthy Stroker 233/240 would work better for your combo. The Stealthy Stroker is listed as working with 10.5 to 1 compression if you don't want tear into the motor for new pistons to bump compression. Getting a custom Cam Motion cam matched to your engine would be the best way to get the most out of the 10.5 to 1 if you want to make a few basic changes.

Find a good tuner to do a dyno tune. As others say the mail order tune hurts.


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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 11:42 AM
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Originally Posted by THE CALIX
I dont remember im sorry.

And yeah I should've degreed it and double checked everything when I had it out but I did it the sloppy way and just sent it. I'm about to tear it back out to redo exhaust so I'm just going to check over everything then

At that day it was a set of hooker 1 3/4 headers into an offroad y pipe into an off brand muffler that i couldn't tell you the name... soon to be itll be a set of speed engineering 1 7/8 headers (ik crappy but I've had good luck with the previous ones I've had) into a trial dual x pipe and i havent decided on mufflers yet.

I did the injector test early today all responded. I do own a heat gun so ill double check with that.

I hear ya man. And slapping it in usually works out fine, but I'm still interested to see if the dots are lined up correctly, and if so then I'd be interested in what the degree wheel says. But really degree wheel at this point is kinda a waste since you should just yank that cam. But we need to diag the problem first. Because if the issue isn't the cam then the problem will remain.

And not a thing in the world wrong with speed engineering.. check my sig. I also did a huge write up on the headers on performancetrucks.net, I'm a fan for sure.

Originally Posted by 99 Black Bird T/A
Or with 10.5 to 1 compression go forced induction, E85 and get a new tune

I'd ditch that LS1 intake fast as possible. It flows at least 20 cfm to 25 cfm less than an unported Fast 90/92. That's up potentially 30 to 45 hp difference.

The cam is a horrible match for the intake manifold and compression. Something like Cam Motion's Stealthy Stroker 233/240 would work better for your combo. The Stealthy Stroker is listed as working with 10.5 to 1 compression if you don't want tear into the motor for new pistons to bump compression. Getting a custom Cam Motion cam matched to your engine would be the best way to get the most out of the 10.5 to 1 if you want to make a few basic changes.

Find a good tuner to do a dyno tune. As others say the mail order tune hurts.
Full agree. You could tailer a cam around that setup. Could also mill the heads and run a thinner headgasket and get that thing closer to 11:1 and do a better cam and intake and really wake it up.

I'd also be interested in seeing a compression test done on this thing, that could give you a good idea as well as to whats going on

Last edited by 00pooterSS; Jun 16, 2020 at 11:52 AM.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 11:54 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by 00pooterSS
Sounds good.

And not a thing in the world wrong with speed engineering.. check my sig. I also did a huge write up on the headers on performancetrucks.net, I'm a fan for sure.



Full agree. You could tailer a cam around that setup. Could also mill the heads and run a thinner headgasket and get that thing closer to 11:1 and do a better cam and intake and really wake it up.

I'd also be interested in seeing a compression test done on this thing, that could give you a good idea as well.
I had SE fuals and they were great. if op is going to be going with true duals dumped before the axle I highly recommend a pair of spintech 3000f mufflers. This guy needs a real tune and a smaller cam and try to bump up that compression. Lots of guys think they will boost and build for it then it doesnt happen and they are left with a pig. He also needs a hotwire kit to properly power his fuel pump or he could risk faliure. Super easy to install that I'd wager ws6store can get a harness for a good price.
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Old Jun 16, 2020 | 12:40 PM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by Bspeck82
I had SE fuals and they were great. if op is going to be going with true duals dumped before the axle I highly recommend a pair of spintech 3000f mufflers. This guy needs a real tune and a smaller cam and try to bump up that compression. Lots of guys think they will boost and build for it then it doesnt happen and they are left with a pig. He also needs a hotwire kit to properly power his fuel pump or he could risk faliure. Super easy to install that I'd wager ws6store can get a harness for a good price.

Yah been talking to a couple people. Once I take engine out to redo exhaust I'll be swapping intake, cam, going to flat tops, and thinner gaskets and all the other supporting mods. Then once I know the car is 100 percent (not going to break after start up) ill take it to the dyno.
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 04:52 PM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by THE CALIX
Car is a 98 z28 with a mildly built 382 stroker with 3.73s. it cruises and idles wonderfully but its slower than a 14 v6 camaro and idk whats going on and need some help!

Build:
LS1 Block
Summit Pro LS rotating assembly 10.5:1 CR
244/250 .612/.613 112lsa
#42 gtp injectors
320lph fuel pump
LS1 intake
PRC 2.5 5.3 heads milled to 58cc
Mail order tune
I thought maybe it'd be the ls1 intake but surely it wouldn't restrict it that much would it?
.
my 383 had an 242/250 cam and it was an real dog also , I ended up going to an blower cam 227/234 and the car felt a lot fast , I didn’t have any dyno numbers or never ran it at the track to back it up, but the car felt a lot faster with the new cam, U should probably call up btr or summit and have an cam speced for your combo, I would also buy an fast 92 intake or an Dorman ls2 ,
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Old Jun 18, 2020 | 04:59 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by THE CALIX
Car is a 98 z28 with a mildly built 382 stroker with 3.73s. it cruises and idles wonderfully but its slower than a 14 v6 camaro and idk whats going on and need some help!

Build:
LS1 Block
Summit Pro LS rotating assembly 10.5:1 CR
244/250 .612/.613 112lsa
#42 gtp injectors
320lph fuel pump
LS1 intake
PRC 2.5 5.3 heads milled to 58cc
Mail order tune
I thought maybe it'd be the ls1 intake but surely it wouldn't restrict it that much would it?
.
my 383 had an 242/250 cam and it was an real dog also , I ended up going to an blower cam 227/234 and the car felt a lot fast , I didn’t have any dyno numbers or never ran it at the track to back it up, but the car felt a lot faster with the new cam, U should probably call up btr or summit and have an cam speced for your combo, I would also buy an fast 92 intake or an Dorman ls2 ,
Reply




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