Why is my 382 so slow?
The tune would be a major concern, and also making sure the basics are good (tune up, fuel filter, fuel pressure etc) and if all those things are good the cam could be off timing, or the tune is just so bad it's not working out. You really need some info to help sort this out though like the timing, air fuel ratio at wide open, be nice to know what it's actually putting down to the tires too.
In other words you could get by with that setup if need be due to budget, we've all been there. And if you really want it to be the best it can be then yeah I'd look at a different cam and intake, but I get the feeling something else is going on here.
But 9.5 in the 1/8th is horribly bad. Really really bad. For reference my bolt on car ran 7.6, that was with a LS6 intake headers exhaust and a 3800 stall with 3.73 gears
But I also cut a 1.68 60 ft to 1.75, do you know what your 60 ft was?
I'm still wondering about cam timing. Been a lot of threads over the past year or so where people had a low power complaint that ended up being cam timing.
What is your exhaust setup ( the whole setup )
I agree on checking for dead cylinders, if you can't temp gun the primaries have someone hold the brake real good and hold the rpm about 1500 or so to get past the cam (since the cam essentially makes it misfire at idle) and unplug one injector at a time and see if it misfires when you do and stops misfiring when you plug it back in. If any cylinders don't respond check them out for a misfire.
But 9.5 in the 1/8th is horribly bad. Really really bad. For reference my bolt on car ran 7.6, that was with a LS6 intake headers exhaust and a 3800 stall with 3.73 gears
But I also cut a 1.68 60 ft to 1.75, do you know what your 60 ft was?
I'm still wondering about cam timing. Been a lot of threads over the past year or so where people had a low power complaint that ended up being cam timing.
What is your exhaust setup ( the whole setup )
I agree on checking for dead cylinders, if you can't temp gun the primaries have someone hold the brake real good and hold the rpm about 1500 or so to get past the cam (since the cam essentially makes it misfire at idle) and unplug one injector at a time and see if it misfires when you do and stops misfiring when you plug it back in. If any cylinders don't respond check them out for a misfire.
And yeah I should've degreed it and double checked everything when I had it out but I did it the sloppy way and just sent it. I'm about to tear it back out to redo exhaust so I'm just going to check over everything then
At that day it was a set of hooker 1 3/4 headers into an offroad y pipe into an off brand muffler that i couldn't tell you the name... soon to be itll be a set of speed engineering 1 7/8 headers (ik crappy but I've had good luck with the previous ones I've had) into a trial dual x pipe and i havent decided on mufflers yet.
I did the injector test early today all responded. I do own a heat gun so ill double check with that.
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I'd ditch that LS1 intake fast as possible. It flows at least 20 cfm to 25 cfm less than an unported Fast 90/92. That's up potentially 30 to 45 hp difference.
The cam is a horrible match for the intake manifold and compression. Something like Cam Motion's Stealthy Stroker 233/240 would work better for your combo. The Stealthy Stroker is listed as working with 10.5 to 1 compression if you don't want tear into the motor for new pistons to bump compression. Getting a custom Cam Motion cam matched to your engine would be the best way to get the most out of the 10.5 to 1 if you want to make a few basic changes.
Find a good tuner to do a dyno tune. As others say the mail order tune hurts.
And yeah I should've degreed it and double checked everything when I had it out but I did it the sloppy way and just sent it. I'm about to tear it back out to redo exhaust so I'm just going to check over everything then
At that day it was a set of hooker 1 3/4 headers into an offroad y pipe into an off brand muffler that i couldn't tell you the name... soon to be itll be a set of speed engineering 1 7/8 headers (ik crappy but I've had good luck with the previous ones I've had) into a trial dual x pipe and i havent decided on mufflers yet.
I did the injector test early today all responded. I do own a heat gun so ill double check with that.
I hear ya man. And slapping it in usually works out fine, but I'm still interested to see if the dots are lined up correctly, and if so then I'd be interested in what the degree wheel says. But really degree wheel at this point is kinda a waste since you should just yank that cam. But we need to diag the problem first. Because if the issue isn't the cam then the problem will remain.
And not a thing in the world wrong with speed engineering.. check my sig. I also did a huge write up on the headers on performancetrucks.net, I'm a fan for sure.

I'd ditch that LS1 intake fast as possible. It flows at least 20 cfm to 25 cfm less than an unported Fast 90/92. That's up potentially 30 to 45 hp difference.
The cam is a horrible match for the intake manifold and compression. Something like Cam Motion's Stealthy Stroker 233/240 would work better for your combo. The Stealthy Stroker is listed as working with 10.5 to 1 compression if you don't want tear into the motor for new pistons to bump compression. Getting a custom Cam Motion cam matched to your engine would be the best way to get the most out of the 10.5 to 1 if you want to make a few basic changes.
Find a good tuner to do a dyno tune. As others say the mail order tune hurts.
I'd also be interested in seeing a compression test done on this thing, that could give you a good idea as well as to whats going on
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Jun 16, 2020 at 11:52 AM.
And not a thing in the world wrong with speed engineering.. check my sig. I also did a huge write up on the headers on performancetrucks.net, I'm a fan for sure.
Full agree. You could tailer a cam around that setup. Could also mill the heads and run a thinner headgasket and get that thing closer to 11:1 and do a better cam and intake and really wake it up.
I'd also be interested in seeing a compression test done on this thing, that could give you a good idea as well.
Yah been talking to a couple people. Once I take engine out to redo exhaust I'll be swapping intake, cam, going to flat tops, and thinner gaskets and all the other supporting mods. Then once I know the car is 100 percent (not going to break after start up) ill take it to the dyno.
Build:
LS1 Block
Summit Pro LS rotating assembly 10.5:1 CR
244/250 .612/.613 112lsa
#42 gtp injectors
320lph fuel pump
LS1 intake
PRC 2.5 5.3 heads milled to 58cc
Mail order tune
I thought maybe it'd be the ls1 intake but surely it wouldn't restrict it that much would it?
my 383 had an 242/250 cam and it was an real dog also , I ended up going to an blower cam 227/234 and the car felt a lot fast , I didn’t have any dyno numbers or never ran it at the track to back it up, but the car felt a lot faster with the new cam, U should probably call up btr or summit and have an cam speced for your combo, I would also buy an fast 92 intake or an Dorman ls2 ,
Build:
LS1 Block
Summit Pro LS rotating assembly 10.5:1 CR
244/250 .612/.613 112lsa
#42 gtp injectors
320lph fuel pump
LS1 intake
PRC 2.5 5.3 heads milled to 58cc
Mail order tune
I thought maybe it'd be the ls1 intake but surely it wouldn't restrict it that much would it?
my 383 had an 242/250 cam and it was an real dog also , I ended up going to an blower cam 227/234 and the car felt a lot fast , I didn’t have any dyno numbers or never ran it at the track to back it up, but the car felt a lot faster with the new cam, U should probably call up btr or summit and have an cam speced for your combo, I would also buy an fast 92 intake or an Dorman ls2 ,









