LS1 noob question (oil pressure again)
Did you verify the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge?
If so and that's what you were saying about the video.. you upload the video to youtube then post the link in here.
You should not need thicker oil, but it could help moving up to a 10 or 15w....... I'd stay at 5w___ or 10w____ if possible. Needing to run a thicker oil is a band aid for excessive bearing clearance.
The screen you asked about is actually in the valley cover. Dorman sells them for a few bucks if you need one. We get them from our regular parts suppliers. They are actually called a lifter filter. I think they are only on gen 4 DOD applications, but I'm not positive about that.
Lastly, I know this won't make you feel better, but the minimum oil psi on a LS1 is 6 pounds per 1000 rpm. So at 1000 rpm you could have as little as 6. Yes I know we all want more, yes I know people are going to jump all over that and say **** that etc. I agree. I'm jusssstt saying, technically that is what it is. And if you want to get super technical minimum is 5.94655 psi at 1000 rpm. What does that mean? It means that technically if you have 25 psi at idle you have plenty for the engine to survive for a very long time, it's just not normal is all.
Edit: never mind I saw you said 20-25 at 2000, that's no good. Minimum spec for 2000 rpm is 17.9, which you're above, but not near enough for comfort.
If so and that's what you were saying about the video.. you upload the video to youtube then post the link in here.
You should not need thicker oil, but it could help moving up to a 10 or 15w....... I'd stay at 5w___ or 10w____ if possible. Needing to run a thicker oil is a band aid for excessive bearing clearance.
The screen you asked about is actually in the valley cover. Dorman sells them for a few bucks if you need one. We get them from our regular parts suppliers. They are actually called a lifter filter. I think they are only on gen 4 DOD applications, but I'm not positive about that.
Lastly, I know this won't make you feel better, but the minimum oil psi on a LS1 is 6 pounds per 1000 rpm. So at 1000 rpm you could have as little as 6. Yes I know we all want more, yes I know people are going to jump all over that and say **** that etc. I agree. I'm jusssstt saying, technically that is what it is. And if you want to get super technical minimum is 5.94655 psi at 1000 rpm. What does that mean? It means that technically if you have 25 psi at idle you have plenty for the engine to survive for a very long time, it's just not normal is all.
Edit: never mind I saw you said 20-25 at 2000, that's no good. Minimum spec for 2000 rpm is 17.9, which you're above, but not near enough for comfort.
Last edited by 00pooterSS; Oct 21, 2020 at 05:29 PM.
Did you verify the oil pressure with a mechanical gauge?
If so and that's what you were saying about the video.. you upload the video to youtube then post the link in here.
You should not need thicker oil, but it could help moving up to a 10 or 15w....... I'd stay at 5w___ or 10w____ if possible. Needing to run a thicker oil is a band aid for excessive bearing clearance.
The screen you asked about is actually in the valley cover. Dorman sells them for a few bucks if you need one. We get them from our regular parts suppliers. They are actually called a lifter filter. I think they are only on gen 4 DOD applications, but I'm not positive about that.
Lastly, I know this won't make you feel better, but the minimum oil psi on a LS1 is 6 pounds per 1000 rpm. So at 1000 rpm you could have as little as 6. Yes I know we all want more, yes I know people are going to jump all over that and say **** that etc. I agree. I'm jusssstt saying, technically that is what it is. And if you want to get super technical minimum is 5.94655 psi at 1000 rpm. What does that mean? It means that technically if you have 25 psi at idle you have plenty for the engine to survive for a very long time, it's just not normal is all.
Edit: never mind I saw you said 20-25 at 2000, that's no good. Minimum spec for 2000 rpm is 17.9, which you're above, but not near enough for comfort.
If so and that's what you were saying about the video.. you upload the video to youtube then post the link in here.
You should not need thicker oil, but it could help moving up to a 10 or 15w....... I'd stay at 5w___ or 10w____ if possible. Needing to run a thicker oil is a band aid for excessive bearing clearance.
The screen you asked about is actually in the valley cover. Dorman sells them for a few bucks if you need one. We get them from our regular parts suppliers. They are actually called a lifter filter. I think they are only on gen 4 DOD applications, but I'm not positive about that.
Lastly, I know this won't make you feel better, but the minimum oil psi on a LS1 is 6 pounds per 1000 rpm. So at 1000 rpm you could have as little as 6. Yes I know we all want more, yes I know people are going to jump all over that and say **** that etc. I agree. I'm jusssstt saying, technically that is what it is. And if you want to get super technical minimum is 5.94655 psi at 1000 rpm. What does that mean? It means that technically if you have 25 psi at idle you have plenty for the engine to survive for a very long time, it's just not normal is all.
Edit: never mind I saw you said 20-25 at 2000, that's no good. Minimum spec for 2000 rpm is 17.9, which you're above, but not near enough for comfort.
Also, I tried two different oil pumps, high volume and a high pressure pump. I managed to drive the car twice, once to the gas station around the corner and once to the shop to seal up my oil pan (didn't have access to all my shop equipment since I moved). It seemed the oil pressure became deathly low once the car was under a load/warmed up, never had a wet gauge to see it's lowest point, looked awfully close to red both times I brought it home. Shop said it idled fine and didn't show any issues with oil pressure but if it's what GM says, thats still too low for me. I'm hoping they'll run a tighterclearance for my bearings, I'll post both videos (excuse my language in the second one)
Last edited by ls1fan92; Oct 21, 2020 at 07:41 PM.
On The Tree
Joined: Sep 2017
Posts: 186
Likes: 27
From: Pensacola, Florida
When I got my motor back from the shop they left it up to me to figure out the o ring, and a bunch of other parts, and of coarse, I had the wrong one installed. But thankfully I checked in on this site before the motor went back in! G Atsma saved my new motor by pointing out the taper on the tube that I didn't see at first. My motor cold starts at 60 psi but drops to the quarter mark while hot idling. Any time I touch the gas pedal it jumps to 40 psi an stays there.
