Solved: Elgin Lifter Preload? Research to find top secret data inside!
That's what I do. After checking my pushrod length, I'll set the length checker to the pushrod length i think I want. Then I'll count rocker bolt turns from dead soft touch until the bolt is seated. Basically, tighten it with my hand choked way up on the wrench so I can't put much torque on it. If I'm running short travel lifters, I look for a half turn. if I'm running stock lifters (includes ls7 lifters) I'll look for about one turn. If it's something in the middle like johnson 2110, I'll aim for about 2/3 to 3/4 turn.
6. So for your true preload number, find dead soft touch. Then, turn the bolt until you feel it bottom out, but do not torque it. That number of rotations times .078 is your preload. Then, put the torque wrench on and torque to 22 ft-lbs, and you'll see where the extra half rotation in comp's instructions comes in. Comp likely worded their instructions for simplicity, as it is technically correct. If you preload and then torque the bolt for a total of about a turn and a half, you are about .070 preload. THAT'S NOT THE SAME THING AS LIFTER PRELOAD VS BOLT TURNS..
7,350 gage length seems OK I got a set of 7.350 (gage) pushrods installed. Most were 1.0 to 1.25 turns per the above method. I also added a set of Summit trunions with full needle bearings while I was waiting for the pushrods. Greeted with a lot of clatter on startup, but it died down pretty much right away. Still louder than it should have been IMO. I went ahead and ran the truck a few miles and when I got back the noise was much improved. Cold start and warmed up MP3 files from today are attached.
Teching In
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 7
I thought I would add some info to this thread that I have experienced so it may help someone in the future. I too purchased the HL2148 Elgin lifters for a 06 LQ4 engine that I was replacing a cam. The cam was very small, only 206/212 and the engine was completely stock. I ordered the required springs, GM head gaskets and did not mill the heads because I wanted to have as little trouble as possible after reassembling the engine. After assembly I was greeted with a very noisey valve train. The stock push rods were reused. After many attempts to resolve the issue from checking oil psi, oil galley gasket leaks, trunnions, exhaust leaks, pick up tube oring etc. etc. I too called Elgin Tech line and explained my issue. The tech person had limited information on preload and travel but was willing to help as much as he could and he recommended I try swapping to 7.450 gauged push rods. I did so and at that time really knew nothing about counting turns from zero lash. The engine would hardly start and run, which lead me to believe the pushrods were too long and holding the valves open a small amount. I reinstalled the stock push rods and started the engine right up it was just noisey.
I found this thread and have ordered a set of 7.350 gauged push rods to swap. I do believe there is a difference in these Elgin lifters from the stock lifters. I will update here once I receive the push rods and install them for future reference.
Thanks to the op for taking the time to post this
I found this thread and have ordered a set of 7.350 gauged push rods to swap. I do believe there is a difference in these Elgin lifters from the stock lifters. I will update here once I receive the push rods and install them for future reference.
Thanks to the op for taking the time to post this
What elgin lifters are these and how much short cup height from stock ls1 lifters to require shorter pushrods. They told me stock were 7.393 and would work on the 1800 grinds were on stock base circle and that 7.4 would add .007 lash or extra lifter preload.
Teching In
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 19
Likes: 7
I installed a set of Comp p/n 7637 pushrods last night. I intended to set up the dial indicator and check the before and after preload with the stock verses the comp pushrods. This was in a 3/4 ton chevrolet 6.0. I had trouble getting repeatable readings with my dial indicator setup. After fighting it a while and laying across the radiator support to the point my chest was beginning to bother me (open heart surgery scar), I swapped the pushrods and started the engine. It had a much quiter sound with the shorter pushrods. The stock push rods had a 1 3/4 turn from zero lash. I did not count the new pushrods.
TECH Fanatic
Joined: Jan 2022
Posts: 1,034
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From: Seattle
"For street engines and especially the LS engine family, setting the preload roughly in the middle of lifter travel is not a bad way to go. As an example, Katech, the Detroit-based engine builder, recommends 0.070-inch while others like Brian Tooley Racing recommend 0.100-inch for LS7-style lifters. In these cases, they are attempting to minimize the height of the hydraulic fluid under the lifter piston."