Oil Pump Suggestions
It depends on the engine. For a street engine turning <7500 rpm with standard .002-.003" clearances, there's no reason to use a HV pump.
Scott
The 296 is actually only high volume....however while it comes with a standard pressure spring installed, it also comes with an optional red high pressure spring in a small parts bag that a customer could install.
My opinion on this situation is you don't really want pressure......you want volume.
"Standard" pressure is more than enough.....higher peak pressures drive the pump harder, costs you a little more power to drive it harder, and sprays engine oil from the bearings all over your cylinders giving your oil rings a much harder time of clearing the cylinder walls. Also more oil spraying in the crankcase and everywhere else creates more windage issues as well (and more drainback from the top end). There is just alot of excess oil and that will cost you a little power. One of the reasons a dry sump engine makes more power is the engine has less oil flying everywhere.
I see no need to have more than standard pressure especially with thinner higher quality synthetic oils and all the pumps I port and send to my customers are usually high volume but they always ship from me with the standard pressure spring installed (blue in color).
That said at lower engine speeds a higher volume pump will create more pressure (idle and low RPM cruising) because at lower speeds the pump isn't moving as much oil so in this situation volume dictates the pressure created. At much higher engine speeds the pump is moving ALOT of oil and creating more pressure so the bypass valve opens up capping the peak pressure of the pump.
The stouter red spring supplied by Melling (and installed from them in their higher pressure model pumps) is stiffer and it delays the opening of the internal bypass creating higher peak pressure (not lower RPM pressure) but I see very little benefit in that situation for all the reasons stated
Im sure you will get other opinions out there but that's mine.....LOL
Hope this helps
-Tony
The 296 is actually only high volume....however while it comes with a standard pressure spring installed, it also comes with an optional red high pressure spring in a small parts bag that a customer could install.
My opinion on this situation is you don't really want pressure......you want volume.
"Standard" pressure is more than enough.....higher peak pressures drive the pump harder, costs you a little more power to drive it harder, and sprays engine oil from the bearings all over your cylinders giving your oil rings a much harder time of clearing the cylinder walls. Also more oil spraying in the crankcase and everywhere else creates more windage issues as well (and more drainback from the top end). There is just alot of excess oil and that will cost you a little power. One of the reasons a dry sump engine makes more power is the engine has less oil flying everywhere.
I see no need to have more than standard pressure especially with thinner higher quality synthetic oils and all the pumps I port and send to my customers are usually high volume but they always ship from me with the standard pressure spring installed (blue in color).
That said at lower engine speeds a higher volume pump will create more pressure (idle and low RPM cruising) because at lower speeds the pump isn't moving as much oil so in this situation volume dictates the pressure created. At much higher engine speeds the pump is moving ALOT of oil and creating more pressure so the bypass valve opens up capping the peak pressure of the pump.
The stouter red spring supplied by Melling (and installed from them in their higher pressure model pumps) is stiffer and it delays the opening of the internal bypass creating higher peak pressure (not lower RPM pressure) but I see very little benefit in that situation for all the reasons stated
Im sure you will get other opinions out there but that's mine.....LOL

Hope this helps
-Tony
This is correct though the same can happen with higher volume through wider clearances. The issue I look for the most with high oil pressure >70 psi is aeration. The capacity of entrained air in the oil increases exponentially as pressure increases. There's been cases of bearing cavitation due to excessive aeration 80-90 psi oil pressure.
A higher volume pump will only help the bottom of the RPM curve in regards to pressure so you don't have to see and deal with or worry about low oil PSI at idle. It will bump a motor that had wider bearing clearance from say15 psi to mid high 20's but your not aerating oil at the type of volume being moved at lower engine speeds and lower pressures.
At higher engine speeds most of my pumps cap out the pressure at 55 or so PSI (depends a little on the weight of the oil) but warmed up you would never see over 60 as the bypass valve in the pump opens up.
A properly ported high volume pump with a standard pressure spring works well....especially in aftermarket shortblocks typically built "looser" than OEM shortblocks which have smaller tighter clearances everywhere.
-Tony
__________________

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
hey Tony, love all the talk about oil pumps, this thread is amazingly informative! I clicked on the link in your signature, but your online store only sells throttle bodies? Maybe I missed something.

Just shoot me an email or a PM and I will get you sorted out.
I carry standard volume ported pumps.....ported high volume pumps (aka 296 style pumps) and ported BIG dog pumps (LSA /ZR1 style pumps meant to carry factory engines that come with oil squirters / AFM/DOD).
The last style I mention, the "BIG DOG" wet sump pumps aka the GM LSA pump or Melling M365/10355 has an even thicker gerotor than the 296 pumps (a 296 nets an 18% increase in volume)....the big dog's bump the volume about 33% (both of these number without the porting factored in and that makes a solid improvement). I only recommend the largest pumps for engines that either have piston squirters or AFM/DOD, and axle oiling lifters (or for an engine simply built too loose that really needs the help in the lower RPM ranges). Once again I ship that big pump with a lower pressure bypass spring so as soon as the RPM's get up and that pump starts moving a bunch of oil it will cap out around the same 55 - 60 PSI range I have discussed by internally bypassing oil through the pump when the spring opens the bypass valve.
The 296 is usually adequate if clearances are set properly even with the axle oiling lifters. Stock engines with tight clearances, no squirters and no axle oiling lifters I usually send folks a ported standard volume pump and they still see some gains in lower RPM PSI from the increase the porting helps with.
Call or email me if you want to discuss further or purchase one from me
Regards,
Tony
__________________

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!

www.mamomotorsports.com
Tony@MamoMotorsports.com
Anything worth doing is worth doing well. Build it right the first time....its alot cheaper than building it twice!!
Last edited by Tony @ Mamo Motorsports; Feb 6, 2022 at 06:44 AM.
I believe the 10296 comes with an extra relief spring. The high volume/standard pressure spring is installed as delivered, iirc. The extra spring comes with it to increase pressure, which I am totally against, as it wastes power driving it harder to achieve unnecessary pressure levels.......
No.....its actually me missing something.....LOL (the TIME to properly update my website.....LOL 
Just shoot me an email or a PM and I will get you sorted out.
I carry standard volume ported pumps.....ported high volume pumps (aka 296 style pumps) and ported BIG dog pumps (LSA /ZR1 style pumps meant to carry factory engines that come with oil squirters / AFM/DOD).
The last style I mention, the "BIG DOG" wet sump pumps aka the GM LSA pump or Melling M365/10355 has an even thicker gerotor than the 296 pumps (a 296 nets an 18% increase in volume)....the big dog's bump the volume about 33% (both of these number without the porting factored in and that makes a solid improvement). I only recommend the largest pumps for engines that either have piston squirters or AFM/DOD, and axle oiling lifters (or for an engine simply built too loose that really needs the help in the lower RPM ranges). Once again I ship that big pump with a lower pressure bypass spring so as soon as the RPM's get up and that pump starts moving a bunch of oil it will cap out around the same 55 - 60 PSI range I have discussed by internally bypassing oil through the pump when the spring opens the bypass valve.
The 296 is usually adequate if clearances are set properly even with the axle oiling lifters. Stock engines with tight clearances, no squirters and no axle oiling lifters I usually send folks a ported standard volume pump and they still see some gains in lower RPM PSI from the increase the porting helps with.
Call or email me if you want to discuss further or purchase one from me
Regards,
Tony

Just shoot me an email or a PM and I will get you sorted out.
I carry standard volume ported pumps.....ported high volume pumps (aka 296 style pumps) and ported BIG dog pumps (LSA /ZR1 style pumps meant to carry factory engines that come with oil squirters / AFM/DOD).
The last style I mention, the "BIG DOG" wet sump pumps aka the GM LSA pump or Melling M365/10355 has an even thicker gerotor than the 296 pumps (a 296 nets an 18% increase in volume)....the big dog's bump the volume about 33% (both of these number without the porting factored in and that makes a solid improvement). I only recommend the largest pumps for engines that either have piston squirters or AFM/DOD, and axle oiling lifters (or for an engine simply built too loose that really needs the help in the lower RPM ranges). Once again I ship that big pump with a lower pressure bypass spring so as soon as the RPM's get up and that pump starts moving a bunch of oil it will cap out around the same 55 - 60 PSI range I have discussed by internally bypassing oil through the pump when the spring opens the bypass valve.
The 296 is usually adequate if clearances are set properly even with the axle oiling lifters. Stock engines with tight clearances, no squirters and no axle oiling lifters I usually send folks a ported standard volume pump and they still see some gains in lower RPM PSI from the increase the porting helps with.
Call or email me if you want to discuss further or purchase one from me
Regards,
Tony
The right pump for you depends on how your engine is built and how it's used. The basic rule is 10 psi of oil pressure per 1,000 rpm at normal operating temperature. For example, if you're highway cruising at 2,500 rpm, you should have 25 psi. At idle, the same engine might have 10 psi or less.
According to GM for Gen III LS:
With engine at normal operation tempeture, oil
pressure should be at least 6 PSI @ 1000 RPM, 18 PSI @ 2000 RPM, And 24 PSI @ 4000 RPM
oil-pressure-specs-those-who-want-know
6 psi at idle time for alarm ⏰️
With engine at normal operation tempeture, oil
pressure should be at least 6 PSI @ 1000 RPM, 18 PSI @ 2000 RPM, And 24 PSI @ 4000 RPM
oil-pressure-specs-those-who-want-know
6 psi at idle time for alarm ⏰️











