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All buttoned up and fired up. doing a shake down and checking for any leaks. had a slight leak on the fuel return i tightened up. i hate new wraps lol all the smoke burning off the manufacturing chemicals make me nervous as hell lol
I'm suprised it actually started and started idling on it own before I even loaded inital idle and injector data tune.
I can definetly tell it's got a bit different sound to it. I love it already can't wait to run it on the street.
One buttoned up ls1 with a stage 2 turbo cam small methanol tank with pump hidden pretty tidy compares to what i startes with lol now to do some beautification later started scanning and idle tuning checking out some inital idel data trying tobfigure out my VE table. not sure why its at -100, but if i muktiply the table bybhalf, i go from 12afr to 18afr to try and clean it up, but when the VE is in the 18afr range for idle it runs alot smoother, but at 12afr at idle it is a bit hesitant and it is super rich lol got my work cut out for me. here the inital scan. not too bad for running without a tune for the injectors or even the new cam how im scanning the new cam
ironing out the idle. sounds much better now that I figured out why my afr and water temp wasn't reading correctly. Apparently 98 ls1 had the same plug in for the TPS and water temp sensor. I figured that but when for some reason my water temp was -38 and both fans were running from the start, but then noticed my tps channel wasn't recording anything thing... so at first I thought my sensors might be going bad, but then noticed that both plugs are the same... this explains the strange -100 afr error recording. well, swapped the plugs and low and behold recording properly and was even able to watch the engine get up to operating temp and turn on fans at 185 and 195. also got normal looking afr error data now lol if you have a 98 ls1, they used a 3 prone plug that is exacly like the water temp sensor. If you have the mentioned errors like i did initally, then you might have accidently mixed up the plug. if your any other ls, its a two prong.
ironing out the idle. sounds much better now that I figured out why my afr and water temp wasn't reading correctly. Apparently 98 ls1 had the same plug in for the TPS and water temp sensor. I figured that but when for some reason my water temp was -38 and both fans were running from the start, but then noticed my tps channel wasn't recording anything thing... so at first I thought my sensors might be going bad, but then noticed that both plugs are the same... this explains the strange -100 afr error recording. well, swapped the plugs and low and behold recording properly and was even able to watch the engine get up to operating temp and turn on fans at 185 and 195. also got normal looking afr error data now lol if you have a 98 ls1, they used a 3 prone plug that is exacly like the water temp sensor. If you have the mentioned errors like i did initally, then you might have accidently mixed up the plug. if your any other ls, its a two prong.
Congratulations on getting this up and running! Good catch on the connectors. You're probably not the first guy to do it and for sure won't be the last
DAMN IT! lol
So I guess the trans/stall were close to being on its way out, and when I tried to roll off the ramps, I seem to have 4 neutrals, and no trans fluid pumping out of the cooler lines... and when I shut the car off, any fluid I try to add while its running pukes it up out of somewhere bubbling from somewhere, on top of the trans. so yep, gonna need a trans and a restall.... but the engine runs great 😑 always something I guess....
DAMN IT! lol
So I guess the trans/stall were close to being on its way out, and when I tried to roll off the ramps, I seem to have 4 neutrals, and no trans fluid pumping out of the cooler lines... and when I shut the car off, any fluid I try to add while its running pukes it up out of somewhere bubbling from somewhere, on top of the trans. so yep, gonna need a trans and a restall.... but the engine runs great 😑 always something I guess....
It is always something indeed. The best way to kill-off an already ailing transmission is to add more power. You’ve done a great job with the engine and with this thread sir. Always appreciate the thorough updates and pics.
I'm tempted to just buy a summit 4l60e and a summit pro ls 3200 converter and call it a day until I'm ready to stuff a built lq4 in it and convert to a 4l80e, but I really want to drive this car and enjoy this new cam now.
I have money for the tci 4l60 that can handle 750hp, but I really don't want to shell out $3400, and yet still need to either rebuilt the revmax stage 5 or get a yank or vigilante thats more compatible with the summit cam, and can handle 750hp. Still mulling it over.
And all this is a bandaid for the stock 10 bolt that will eventually also need to be updated as well. looking at the Hawks 8.8 rear end with 3.55 gears.
I probably could, but I believe I have to repin my 98 pcm to run a newer computer which requires another set of headaches in the conversion department.
alright, so I've got most of everything ordered. gotta wait on a few things. Summit is sending me an FTI 3600 TC, and a UMI mount with TA bracket.
probably was a blessing in disguise that I'm gonna get a 4l80e and a repin pcm. I'll be able to run a 3bar now, and a much better converter to go with the cam.
once I get that all back together ill continue the tuning of the cam and finally get some videos and maybe a dyno run once I get it where I like.
I'll probably be keeping it under 6800rpm. not trying to spin it too much lol probably could touch 7000rpm but I'd like to see some longevity with this setup.