LQ9 with 823 Questions
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Joined: Mar 2005
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From: South Jersey/Moorestown
LQ9 with 823 Questions Hey all!
I've been away from the game for quite some time and I’ve been setting up to build a 2008 BMW 335i swap.
I had a shop that suggested to go with a LQ9 and throw 823’s on it with a BTR Stage 3 cam. The shop after waiting 3 months never delivered for me and i opted to find the setup myself.
I just dropped off a LQ9 and 823 heads at a different machine shop and they said they haven’t had much experience with the combo and suggested I research pushrod length and PTV clearance.
Does anyone have experience with this setup? Does anyone have any advice on pushrod length/PTV clearance. I know the best answer is measure and I’ll confirm either way. Just seeing if the LS1Tech Guru’s have already traveled this road and could share their insight!
Thank you in advance!!!
I've been away from the game for quite some time and I’ve been setting up to build a 2008 BMW 335i swap.
I had a shop that suggested to go with a LQ9 and throw 823’s on it with a BTR Stage 3 cam. The shop after waiting 3 months never delivered for me and i opted to find the setup myself.
I just dropped off a LQ9 and 823 heads at a different machine shop and they said they haven’t had much experience with the combo and suggested I research pushrod length and PTV clearance.
Does anyone have experience with this setup? Does anyone have any advice on pushrod length/PTV clearance. I know the best answer is measure and I’ll confirm either way. Just seeing if the LS1Tech Guru’s have already traveled this road and could share their insight!
Thank you in advance!!!
Yeah, there’s no way of knowing without measuring due to machining tolerances introduced along the way, meaning has the block been decked previously, have the heads been cut previously, etc. Also head gasket thickness, camshaft base circle radius, and lifter cup height will come into play. It’s easy enough to get the long block final assembled, and then measure to keep you from buying things twice. I wouldn’t guess at it. It’s too hard to find parts these days, much less find them twice.
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iTrader: (33)
Joined: Mar 2005
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From: South Jersey/Moorestown
Yeah, there’s no way of knowing without measuring due to machining tolerances introduced along the way, meaning has the block been decked previously, have the heads been cut previously, etc. Also head gasket thickness, camshaft base circle radius, and lifter cup height will come into play. It’s easy enough to get the long block final assembled, and then measure to keep you from buying things twice. I wouldn’t guess at it. It’s too hard to find parts these days, much less find them twice.
For me these are stock untouched 823 heads and the block is stock too. They’re doing just a stock rebuild.
Thanks again and if anyone has any input on what worked for them let me know!
Really not much left to say from what Scott has mentioned but I've recently built an LQ9 bored .030 over outfitted with ARP head studs, using an LS1 crankshaft, Callies Compstar 6.125 rods, Wiseco 12cc dome pistons, Lunati High RPM link-bar lifters and a CamMotion custom ground camshaft. The cylinder heads are unmilled 823's with Ferrea valves and PAC .660 lift springs. The head gaskets are Cometic .045's and pushrods are Smith Brothers .115 wall 5/16" x 7.555" in length using TSP LS3 roller tipped rockers with CHE trunnions. Taking measurements is a given with any engine build because not all are built using the same components.
I purchased a L96 engine (6.0 iron block with 823 heads from the factory). Before I installed it, I replaced the valve train. When checking the pushrod length, I ended up needing 7.375".
One of the 408's I built (6.0 iron block bored .030 with aftermarket RHS LS3 heads) needed 7.400" pushrods.
So the stock rebuild needed slightly shorter pushrods, and the one with all the aftermarket parts needed stock length... There's nothing special to it, just measure twice (or 16 times) and buy once.
One of the 408's I built (6.0 iron block bored .030 with aftermarket RHS LS3 heads) needed 7.400" pushrods.
So the stock rebuild needed slightly shorter pushrods, and the one with all the aftermarket parts needed stock length... There's nothing special to it, just measure twice (or 16 times) and buy once.
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Joined: Jun 2022
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Hey all!
I've been away from the game for quite some time and I’ve been setting up to build a 2008 BMW 335i swap.
I had a shop that suggested to go with a LQ9 and throw 823’s on it with a BTR Stage 3 cam. The shop after waiting 3 months never delivered for me and i opted to find the setup myself.
I just dropped off a LQ9 and 823 heads at a different machine shop and they said they haven’t had much experience with the combo and suggested I research pushrod length and PTV clearance.
Does anyone have experience with this setup? Does anyone have any advice on pushrod length/PTV clearance. I know the best answer is measure and I’ll confirm either way. Just seeing if the LS1Tech Guru’s have already traveled this road and could share their insight!
Thank you in advance!!!
I've been away from the game for quite some time and I’ve been setting up to build a 2008 BMW 335i swap.
I had a shop that suggested to go with a LQ9 and throw 823’s on it with a BTR Stage 3 cam. The shop after waiting 3 months never delivered for me and i opted to find the setup myself.
I just dropped off a LQ9 and 823 heads at a different machine shop and they said they haven’t had much experience with the combo and suggested I research pushrod length and PTV clearance.
Does anyone have experience with this setup? Does anyone have any advice on pushrod length/PTV clearance. I know the best answer is measure and I’ll confirm either way. Just seeing if the LS1Tech Guru’s have already traveled this road and could share their insight!
Thank you in advance!!!
Did you have a cam in mind already ?
