Main hardware ARP or Stock?
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 299
Likes: 21
From: Phoenix, AZ
Main hardware ARP or Stock? Im not really concerned about strength since Im just running a cammed LQ9, but im more worried about TTY bolts during assembly.
Since I will need to install, then remove, then reinstall the main bolts in order to check bearing clearances, would it be better to just order the ARP hardware? Or do you check the clearances with the old hardware, then use the new stuff for final torque?
Since I will need to install, then remove, then reinstall the main bolts in order to check bearing clearances, would it be better to just order the ARP hardware? Or do you check the clearances with the old hardware, then use the new stuff for final torque?
Last edited by Smitty454; May 1, 2023 at 04:12 PM.
TECH Regular
Joined: Dec 2020
Posts: 423
Likes: 131
From: Ohio
Ok from the factory they have to linebore the caps and torque down the mains to do this
Then they have to take the mains off again to install bearings and torque them down.
They are most certainly ok to reuse
Then they have to take the mains off again to install bearings and torque them down.
They are most certainly ok to reuse
Going to ARP is a great move, if your willing to line hone. The ARP hardware will distort the main bores because it will clamp the main caps with more force, to get to ARP’s required specs. This extra clamping force is what distorts the bores. Same way with going to ARP rod bolts. It’s Uber imperative that anytime you are torquing mains or rods, that you are consistent in what torque values you use. If a shop installs ARP main studs in a customers block and torques them to…say 65 ft lbs to line hone the block….and then the customer, when receiving the block, builds the engine and goes to 70 or even 75 ft lbs on the mains, he has distorted the main bores because of the extra clamping force. And this extra clamping force will even distort the blocks cylinders in most situations. Be very careful that you know torque values when disassembling an engine, so that the values can be repeated with consistency when re-assembling.
I agree with everything you said, Scott. But one thing I have experienced-one time only-was on my first 427, a Darton sleeved LS1 block. Wheel to Wheel Powertrain (remember them?) built that motor. Kurt Urban called me one day and asked If I wanted to go with stock or ARP main bolts, then asked if I wanted bolts or studs. He told me when using studs, about half the blocks needed align honing, and half didnt. Apparently mine didn't, because they didn't charge me for it. But I agree, it seems stouter studs/bolts, torqued to a higher value, would stress the block differently than OEM bolts....
Thread Starter
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 299
Likes: 21
From: Phoenix, AZ
Well, I want to reuse the main bolts in order to save money but the guy that is doing the machine work insists on ARP main bolts and line honing the mains. He says the clamping force of the stock hardware is inconsistent.
Apparently he is THE guy to use for LS builds in my city and hes been building engines longer than Ive been alive. I suppose I better take his advice.
Apparently he is THE guy to use for LS builds in my city and hes been building engines longer than Ive been alive. I suppose I better take his advice.
Well, I want to reuse the main bolts in order to save money but the guy that is doing the machine work insists on ARP main bolts and line honing the mains. He says the clamping force of the stock hardware is inconsistent.
Apparently he is THE guy to use for LS builds in my city and hes been building engines longer than Ive been alive. I suppose I better take his advice.
Apparently he is THE guy to use for LS builds in my city and hes been building engines longer than Ive been alive. I suppose I better take his advice.
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