Blower motor run as N/A
#21
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
thanks for the advice guys looks like 3 options
1 install it(with smaller injectors) and see what it drives like
2 mill the heads + change the cam
3 put the procharger on it and leave the th400/ptc convertor behind it and change the pulleys untill the 59 has a stronger rear end
1 install it(with smaller injectors) and see what it drives like
2 mill the heads + change the cam
3 put the procharger on it and leave the th400/ptc convertor behind it and change the pulleys untill the 59 has a stronger rear end
#22
4th option:
4. Leave the heads alone; change the cam; put in smaller injectors
Kinda all depends on what you're willing to spend, and your expectations for excellence in the finished product are, and how important you feel about keeping the heads unmolested and pristine (after all, once they're milled, there's no going back)
Yes if it still has the original rear axle, that's a potential failure point.
4. Leave the heads alone; change the cam; put in smaller injectors
Kinda all depends on what you're willing to spend, and your expectations for excellence in the finished product are, and how important you feel about keeping the heads unmolested and pristine (after all, once they're milled, there's no going back)
Yes if it still has the original rear axle, that's a potential failure point.
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G Atsma (05-09-2024)
#23
8 Second Club
iTrader: (4)
Let's see... seems to me that some form of "adder" that requires filling a bottle, pushing a switch, and so forth, at which point one gets some fixed (100 HP or whatever) blast of juice, is NOT "wife's cruiser" friendly material. ESPECIALLY not on the roads in the UK, which if you go there, you'll see what I mean. There aren't many wide-open stretches where one can just blast to the max in the manner that nitrous lends itself to.
We're not in Kansas anymore.
OTOH a system that operates automatically and responds somewhat more or less linearly to the throttle such as a blower or even a turbo, and doesn't require occasionally filling a bottle, could much more readily be put to use in such circumstances.
According to the OP, he's looking for a "cruiser". Any advice that fails to take his stated purpose into account, and instead runs off at the mouth about their own tuning ability and "more power" fetish without being affected by what the OP is actually doing, is just bishop-buffing and self-aggrandizement. NOT "advice".
So have I. THE LAST THING any of them needed was a low-compression motor with too much cam and injectors that render it untunable under the conditions it's going to be used under. I can't tell you how many people I knew with Novas, 2nd gen Camaros, etc., who built motors like that (it was big carbs back in those days, not injectors, butt the end result was the same), and put them in cars with highway gears and stock converters; and then proceeded to get humiliated by stock 2-bbl cars.
The combo in question will be slower than a STOCK 243 head and STOCK cam combo.
We're not in Kansas anymore.
OTOH a system that operates automatically and responds somewhat more or less linearly to the throttle such as a blower or even a turbo, and doesn't require occasionally filling a bottle, could much more readily be put to use in such circumstances.
According to the OP, he's looking for a "cruiser". Any advice that fails to take his stated purpose into account, and instead runs off at the mouth about their own tuning ability and "more power" fetish without being affected by what the OP is actually doing, is just bishop-buffing and self-aggrandizement. NOT "advice".
So have I. THE LAST THING any of them needed was a low-compression motor with too much cam and injectors that render it untunable under the conditions it's going to be used under. I can't tell you how many people I knew with Novas, 2nd gen Camaros, etc., who built motors like that (it was big carbs back in those days, not injectors, butt the end result was the same), and put them in cars with highway gears and stock converters; and then proceeded to get humiliated by stock 2-bbl cars.
The combo in question will be slower than a STOCK 243 head and STOCK cam combo.
Linear throttle my ****. I’ve built and owned centri blower cars. If setup correctly, they are violent! Nitrous can easily have a less violent curve than a blower car. It can be staged/progressive/rpm activated/speed activated… etc. You can easily have a MUCH more controllable power curve than a blower car. Stop arguing moronic points! Either setup would be perfectly fine. Anyone can press a switch… insinuating this would be difficult for a woman is comical.
Please inform me how a N20 system effects the cruisebility in any shape or form. I’ll wait…
What I’m suggesting is getting the most HP per $ invested. Swapping injectors is a waste of $ and just plain moronic. A cam swap will cost quite a bit and do very little power wise. Basically not worth the time/effort without a lot of other modifications. The OP wanted a blower originally… So why you think a mild cam swap is gonna be some eye-opening experience is beyond me. He already has an aftermarket cam that will allow the car to rev out properly.
He doesn’t have a factory converter or low compression! In what planet is 9.4: low compression? LM7 5.3’s were 9.5! The newer 5.3 are 9.6 to 9.9. He is roughly .5 less than a flat top 5.3! That’s roughly a 2% loss in power! Yet you act like it’s some astronomical difference. Much like your cam theory, that is total nonsense.
His motor would NOT make less power than a factory 5.3. You are insane to think so. The cam and setup he described would absolutely smoke a bone stock 5.3 in a like chassis in a drag race. To say otherwise just proves you shouldn’t be giving advice. The injector size makes ZERO difference in power production. Its asinine that you keep mentioning that. There is NOTHING un-tunable about 80lb injectors in a pump gas LS! The Deka 80 is the most commonly used aftermarket injector out there! You’d know that if you actually had any real experience.
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brutalzo6 (05-10-2024)
#24
It can be staged/progressive/rpm activated/speed activated… etc.
Anyone can press a switch… insinuating this would be difficult for a woman is comical.
LISTEN TO the OP. Tell him about things that point in the direction he's asking about going, NOT just spank the monkey about how great you are and call me names for giving COMMON SENSE advice that MATCHES his stated goals.
His motor would NOT make less power than a factory 5.3.
LM7 5.3’s were 9.5!
The injector size makes ZERO difference in power production.
Spend less time attacking my COMMON SENSE and polishing the pole about how much you "know", and instead try to help the OP accomplish HIS goals. NOT YOURS. He's clearly trying to DE-MAX-EFFORT this whole thing and turn it into a "cruiser", NOT go for broke with staged nitrous and all that. Let me reiterate HIS goals, so that you can calm down and re-focus, and get your hand out of your pants.
it will be installed in my wifes 59 vette. a cruiser th350/3.36/ around 2900lbs
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G Atsma (05-09-2024)
#25
You are arguing totally pointless semantics. You clearly have little to no experience and then try to dish out advise as if you do. I feel sorry for those that would listen to your advise is all. 50% of what you say here is total nonsense… and that’s me being nice.
Linear throttle my ****. I’ve built and owned centri blower cars. If setup correctly, they are violent! Nitrous can easily have a less violent curve than a blower car. It can be staged/progressive/rpm activated/speed activated… etc. You can easily have a MUCH more controllable power curve than a blower car. Stop arguing moronic points! Either setup would be perfectly fine. Anyone can press a switch… insinuating this would be difficult for a woman is comical.
Please inform me how a N20 system effects the cruisebility in any shape or form. I’ll wait…
What I’m suggesting is getting the most HP per $ invested. Swapping injectors is a waste of $ and just plain moronic. A cam swap will cost quite a bit and do very little power wise. Basically not worth the time/effort without a lot of other modifications. The OP wanted a blower originally… So why you think a mild cam swap is gonna be some eye-opening experience is beyond me. He already has an aftermarket cam that will allow the car to rev out properly.
He doesn’t have a factory converter or low compression! In what planet is 9.4: low compression? LM7 5.3’s were 9.5! The newer 5.3 are 9.6 to 9.9. He is roughly .5 less than a flat top 5.3! That’s roughly a 2% loss in power! Yet you act like it’s some astronomical difference. Much like your cam theory, that is total nonsense.
His motor would NOT make less power than a factory 5.3. You are insane to think so. The cam and setup he described would absolutely smoke a bone stock 5.3 in a like chassis in a drag race. To say otherwise just proves you shouldn’t be giving advice. The injector size makes ZERO difference in power production. Its asinine that you keep mentioning that. There is NOTHING un-tunable about 80lb injectors in a pump gas LS! The Deka 80 is the most commonly used aftermarket injector out there! You’d know that if you actually had any real experience.
Linear throttle my ****. I’ve built and owned centri blower cars. If setup correctly, they are violent! Nitrous can easily have a less violent curve than a blower car. It can be staged/progressive/rpm activated/speed activated… etc. You can easily have a MUCH more controllable power curve than a blower car. Stop arguing moronic points! Either setup would be perfectly fine. Anyone can press a switch… insinuating this would be difficult for a woman is comical.
Please inform me how a N20 system effects the cruisebility in any shape or form. I’ll wait…
What I’m suggesting is getting the most HP per $ invested. Swapping injectors is a waste of $ and just plain moronic. A cam swap will cost quite a bit and do very little power wise. Basically not worth the time/effort without a lot of other modifications. The OP wanted a blower originally… So why you think a mild cam swap is gonna be some eye-opening experience is beyond me. He already has an aftermarket cam that will allow the car to rev out properly.
He doesn’t have a factory converter or low compression! In what planet is 9.4: low compression? LM7 5.3’s were 9.5! The newer 5.3 are 9.6 to 9.9. He is roughly .5 less than a flat top 5.3! That’s roughly a 2% loss in power! Yet you act like it’s some astronomical difference. Much like your cam theory, that is total nonsense.
His motor would NOT make less power than a factory 5.3. You are insane to think so. The cam and setup he described would absolutely smoke a bone stock 5.3 in a like chassis in a drag race. To say otherwise just proves you shouldn’t be giving advice. The injector size makes ZERO difference in power production. Its asinine that you keep mentioning that. There is NOTHING un-tunable about 80lb injectors in a pump gas LS! The Deka 80 is the most commonly used aftermarket injector out there! You’d know that if you actually had any real experience.
That being said, I think the power level of the OP’s ride is sort of moot since it’s a classic cruiser, and a woman’s at that. It seems to me like “drive-ability” per dollar would be more of a priority than power per $. If it can be tuned to not buck and chug at parking lot speeds then I’d probably run it as is. If the 80 pound injectors make tuning it so it’ll be a good cruiser a hassle I’d swap injectors. I don’t know his wife, maybe she’d rather run a 10 second 1/4 mile even if it meant having crappy parking lot manners. But not mine though.
Maybe people are calling 9.5:1 or whatever “low” because the LS1 has a 10.2:1 or something like that.
Last edited by Y2K_Frenzy; 05-09-2024 at 06:00 PM.
#26
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
i may have been wrong on the comp ratio
5.3
ljms wiseco boost pistons 3.800 bore -3.2 dome volume .005 deck clearance
243 heads 65cc chambers
molnar 6.125 rods
ls9 gaskets .055
BTR LS3 supercharger cam 227/244 613/596 115
the TH350 has a manual/auto valve body
b+m tork master convertor 1900-2100 stall
some of the calculators i have used puts it at around 10.2 although the engine builder quoted 9.8
car will mostly be a cruiser with an occasional run up the strip
5.3
ljms wiseco boost pistons 3.800 bore -3.2 dome volume .005 deck clearance
243 heads 65cc chambers
molnar 6.125 rods
ls9 gaskets .055
BTR LS3 supercharger cam 227/244 613/596 115
the TH350 has a manual/auto valve body
b+m tork master convertor 1900-2100 stall
some of the calculators i have used puts it at around 10.2 although the engine builder quoted 9.8
car will mostly be a cruiser with an occasional run up the strip
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Y2K_Frenzy (05-10-2024)
#27
TECH Enthusiast
i may have been wrong on the comp ratio
5.3
ljms wiseco boost pistons 3.800 bore -3.2 dome volume .005 deck clearance
243 heads 65cc chambers
molnar 6.125 rods
ls9 gaskets .055
BTR LS3 supercharger cam 227/244 613/596 115
the TH350 has a manual/auto valve body
b+m tork master convertor 1900-2100 stall
some of the calculators i have used puts it at around 10.2 although the engine builder quoted 9.8
car will mostly be a cruiser with an occasional run up the strip
5.3
ljms wiseco boost pistons 3.800 bore -3.2 dome volume .005 deck clearance
243 heads 65cc chambers
molnar 6.125 rods
ls9 gaskets .055
BTR LS3 supercharger cam 227/244 613/596 115
the TH350 has a manual/auto valve body
b+m tork master convertor 1900-2100 stall
some of the calculators i have used puts it at around 10.2 although the engine builder quoted 9.8
car will mostly be a cruiser with an occasional run up the strip