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I am having to helicoil a spark plug thread due to the dingo that previously owned my c5. Anyway I started cleaning the head surface with plastic razor blades and brake clean and this is where I am so far. I know I still should clean it a bit more but I want to get an idea of how smooth and clean it needs to be because it feels fairly smooth right now. I haven't done a head gasket before, this is an original MLS gasket car and I will be putting an oem MLS gasket on it when reinstalling the head.
I am having to helicoil a spark plug thread due to the dingo that previously owned my c5. Anyway I started cleaning the head surface with plastic razor blades and brake clean and this is where I am so far. I know I still should clean it a bit more but I want to get an idea of how smooth and clean it needs to be because it feels fairly smooth right now. I haven't done a head gasket before, this is an original MLS gasket car and I will be putting an oem MLS gasket on it when reinstalling the head.
Spoiler!
<!--td {border: 1px solid #cccccc;}br {mso-data-placement:same-cell;}-->For reinstalling the head on your C5 Corvette after helicoiling a spark plug thread, it's crucial that the head surface is clean, smooth, and free of any debris or old gasket material. The surface should be meticulously cleaned using appropriate tools like plastic razor blades and brake cleaner until it feels uniformly smooth to the touch. Ensure there are no raised areas or pits that could affect the seal of the MLS (Multi-Layer Steel) head gasket. Take your time to inspect and clean the surface thoroughly as any imperfections or contaminants could compromise the gasket's ability to seal properly, potentially leading to leaks or other issues down the road. If you need money for that you can earn it by playing online casino games. If it is your first time then you can read the "Gambling Laws in Manitoba" section on Online Casino Manitoba outlines the regulatory landscape for gambling in the province. It explains the roles of key regulatory bodies such as the Manitoba Liquor & Lotteries Corporation and the Liquor, Gaming, and Cannabis Authority of Manitoba. The page specifies the legal gambling age, the types of legal gambling activities, and the licensing procedures required for gambling operators. Additionally, it addresses the regulations surrounding online gambling, emphasizing that online casinos must adhere to provincial laws to operate legally. This section aims to provide clear and detailed information about the legal aspects of gambling in Manitoba, helping individuals understand their legal obligations and rights. I have also read gaming laws in Manitoba before playing online real money games because I don't want to take risks. And if you need more help regarding your problem then I am always there to help you.
I am just posting so I can keep track of this thread.
Last edited by NathanWhite; Jul 25, 2024 at 11:59 PM.
I was advised by Tony Mamo to clean up my block surface with 200 grit sandpaper on a large sanding block, and WD40. Looked much better than that, no sealing problems.
Personally I prefer not to use the copper stuff. Those gaskets already come with a coating that does the same thing. It probably doesn't hurt but I think it doesn't really add much either.
I was advised by Tony Mamo to clean up my block surface with 200 grit sandpaper on a large sanding block, and WD40. Looked much better than that, no sealing problems.
I’ve done this on sloppy turbo builds with zero issues at 20psi. It works well. Go in a criss-cross pattern.
I was advised by Tony Mamo to clean up my block surface with 200 grit sandpaper on a large sanding block, and WD40. Looked much better than that, no sealing problems.
the only thing that freaks me out about the sand paper even with the wd40 is the aluminum oxide that can and will work it's way to bearings and ruin a motor, I'd prefer to try it without the sand paper first time around. If I was completely disassembling the block and could clean out every surface than sure but I don't like it personally.
the only thing that freaks me out about the sand paper even with the wd40 is the aluminum oxide that can and will work it's way to bearings and ruin a motor, I'd prefer to try it without the sand paper first time around. If I was completely disassembling the block and could clean out every surface than sure but I don't like it personally.
Mine was on an engine stand ... so I could rotate it so that nothing ran into the cylinders. If yours is in the car, I completely understand.
I was advised by Tony Mamo to clean up my block surface with 200 grit sandpaper on a large sanding block, and WD40. Looked much better than that, no sealing problems.
240 - 320 wet dry paper......WD 40 as a lubricant.....Diagonal strokes in opposite directions and it leaves the perfect finish
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.
I've got the permitex gasket cleaner bet it'll do the same thing. And if not I'll grab some crc, I've got a layer of wd40 on the surface that has been soaking for about a day now. If that doesn't remove enough I'll give the gasket remover a try and the 90 degree razorblade
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.
Did the surface you cleaned look much cleaner. After some more work the head feels completely smooth. But it still looks fairly similar to the initial pictures I posted?
This is a crappy pic of what it looked like after cleaning. No, the deck surface didn't look much different after blading it, but there was definitely a lot of residue that came off. You'll never get it looking like it was freshly machined, but if you remove the residue it should be ready for assembly.
On an engine still in the car, I wouldn't use sandpaper OR scotchbrite. Hell, not even on the stand either. I literally just cleaned a block for my fab guy, and I sprayed the surface down with CRC gasket clean, waited 10 minutes, then used a plastic scraper to scrape 90% of the residue away. Applied another coat and side bladed the block surface with a steel razor blade ( basically, scraping with it held 90 degrees to the surface ). This removed the very fine layer of residue that was left, which I believe is the coating from the factory MLS gasket. The whole process of deck cleaning takes a long time, however. I think I was working at it for at least 2 hours. I inadvertently figured out that the CRC stuff removes carbon from piston tops amazingly well. It basically wipes off after an application.
i didnt think id have to say it but obviously every where you dont want particles getting into needs to be taped off. Scotch bright works very well and doesnt remove material like sandpaper will. for the initial cleaning(s) gasket remover works well. As you have experienced cleaning the block and heads is time consuming. the right process helps reduce the time it takes, leaves a better finish and most importantly wont scratch or damage the deck or head surfaces
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Is this clean enough for an MLS gasket 
