Should I go with a bigger cam?

- Fast 102 intake and TB
- PRC Heads
- TSP Long tubes and y pipe
- Circle D 4k stall
- 42 lbs injectors

- Fast 102 intake and TB
- PRC Heads
- TSP Long tubes and y pipe
- Circle D 4k stall
- 42 lbs injectors

- Fast 102 intake and TB
- PRC Heads
- TSP Long tubes and y pipe
- Circle D 4k stall
- 42 lbs injectors
I plan on using a rick crawford custom cam. Will likely go with 225/233, .612, .612, 111+3. I think it would work great for you too. I'll get it from the below vendor:
Camshafts ACE/RCR | Product categories | ACE Performance
With the other mods you have listed sans the cylinder heads and camshaft The car would be high 11's bottom 12s with a 3.42 or 3.73 gear and a 26" tire
I mean just the nice Aftermarket intake manifold full exhaust 4K stall. Nice tune. The car will run high 11s bottom 12s all day long with a decent tune tuning is critical. For the cost of a camshaft I mean just the part you could buy yourself HP tuners and start learning yourself. Even now in 2024 a lot of people struggle to tune a larger throttle body. Especially on a mismatched setup where the cylinder head people and the camshaft people have no idea what the hell the other is doing, Just keep that in mind.
The cylinder heads and the camshaft need to go together, or you could do a Max effort camshaft on the stock heads, people have been going 10's on the stock cylinder heads since these cars were new. Just something to think about
Like the previous post mentioned, bald eagle cam is good. streetsweeper HT is better. A little tougher on the valvetrain though.
Trending Topics
The Best V8 Stories One Small Block at Time




with your stall, with 3.23:1 diff I would go Titan 4.
Just my .02
You have a nice foundation you're building here and have received great advice from the community!
We are fans of the added compression and thinner head gasket suggested by @Che70velle. No matter the cam you go with, Chevelle's comment about a tuner couldn't have been said any better: " Find yourself the best one you can afford. It will pay dividends in driveability and power."
Onto a cam recommendation. All the cams discussed are basically in the same range. They move valve events around depending on the characteristics they were after for that grind. We think the SUM-8707R1 that @Abs suggested would be a great fit here. Specs on it are .600/.600, 226/238, 113+3 with 6* of overlap. The 8707R1 will have a steady lope, but it's easy to tune and live with. It'll have a nice wide powerband and pull strongly to 7,000+. Seeing as you're going with PRC heads those will likely come with a PAC .660" lift duals which will work well with the 8707R1. The planned intake, injectors, and exhaust mods will help bring everything out of the cam swap!
Being that we all suffer from the "need more power" sickness this might be a good time to look into a fuel pump upgrade as well.
This should be a great combo that will sure be fun to drive!
I beat the tar out of that cam for 20k miles and it looked great when I had it out after I blew a hole in a piston in my LS1. I put it right in the LS6 shortblock and went on my way.
It did 450whp one one dyno, 475whp on another. I met a guy with a bone stock C6 LS7 who said he could barely keep up with me on the straights at our local track, and I'm told those dyno around 450whp.
It didn't feel like it had full torque until about 4000 RPM, but I've heard other people say theirs came on around 3500. It didn't feel weak at low RPM, it just felt a LOT stronger if I dropped down a gear (or two) to get the revs up before flooring it.
It had some surge in first gear below 1500 RPM and at the very bottom of 2nd gear, but drove well otherwise. I heard from a guy who said his didn't surge at all, and if my timing chain hadn't failed I would be trying to tune the surge out of mine. Based on my experience smoothing out the came in my current setup (238/251 in a 454) I think the surge in my old setup was probably a solvable problem.








