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Wrong Cam?

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Old Sep 24, 2025 | 04:42 PM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
Any idea if the cam was installed "straight" up or advanced any?

Also, what is it going in, what are you using the vehicle for and what is the rest of the combo?
Weight?
Trans?
Rear gear?

It amazes me that people will throw out advice, and not even ask the BASIC questions that any cam manufacturer or engine builder would ask.

A dyno graph would also be helpful.
This is EXACTLY why I don’t bother speccing cams here. It’s truly a science to get right, and requires time that I don’t have.
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Old Sep 24, 2025 | 06:31 PM
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Originally Posted by KAOS
not sure. I have the engine graph but didn’t keep the mustang dyno sheet. It’s a 68 restomod with a 5speed, ford 9in and 4.10 gears. No idea on weight.
What intake manifold? That has A LOT to do with where an engine makes peak hp/tq and the shape of the curve.

I would never spec a cam for anyone, that is an art all in it's own.

However I have been around long enough, made enough mistakes, worked in a performance shop, ran the dyno, seen countless other people's mistakes that...
I know what questions to ask to get an idea of what you "think" you want and what you actually need, and will pass that information onto the camshaft supplier or engine builder.

Because more often than not, if I give you what you "think" you want, in the end you are going to be unhappy and you are going to blame me for it.

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Old Sep 24, 2025 | 08:08 PM
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Originally Posted by LilJayV10
What intake manifold? That has A LOT to do with where an engine makes peak hp/tq and the shape of the curve.

I would never spec a cam for anyone, that is an art all in it's own.

However I have been around long enough, made enough mistakes, worked in a performance shop, ran the dyno, seen countless other people's mistakes that...
I know what questions to ask to get an idea of what you "think" you want and what you actually need, and will pass that information onto the camshaft supplier or engine builder.

Because more often than not, if I give you what you "think" you want, in the end you are going to be unhappy and you are going to blame me for it.
it has MSD manifold. I’ve always loved big cams. Back in the day the T-Rex was always interesting bc it was big and worked with stick heads and was rowdy. This thing just doesn’t have the “chop”. It dynoed 455-460 to the wheels so the combo works well
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Old Sep 25, 2025 | 04:06 PM
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Originally Posted by KAOS
it has MSD manifold. I’ve always loved big cams. Back in the day the T-Rex was always interesting bc it was big and worked with stick heads and was rowdy. This thing just doesn’t have the “chop”. It dynoed 455-460 to the wheels so the combo works well
are you happy with the power down low? If you want more, go with the btr red hot cam. Its better than your current cam down low and is no slouch up top. You will trade some top end power for low end power, but thats almost always the case. All of the ls1/ls2/ls3 btr cams are top end oriented anyway, so i would bet you would still be 440+ hp, but with better low end. There isnt a huge power difference between btr stage 2 and 3, and the red hot is very similar to the btr stage 2, just with friendlier lift and slightly higher lsa (113 vs 112). By dropping 10 degrees of intake duration between your cam and the red hot, plus lowering the lsa, it will have more low end torque.

Or do you just want max top end hp? If so, stick with what you have. 500hp is achievable with your cam and the right driveline and other mods, but its rare, and 455/415 is pretty stout. I wouldn't change cams to get more hp. You could to trade hp for low end torque and have a better street car.
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Old Sep 25, 2025 | 04:34 PM
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Originally Posted by Abs
are you happy with the power down low? If you want more, go with the btr red hot cam. Its better than your current cam down low and is no slouch up top. You will trade some top end power for low end power, but thats almost always the case. All of the ls1/ls2/ls3 btr cams are top end oriented anyway, so i would bet you would still be 440+ hp, but with better low end. There isnt a huge power difference between btr stage 2 and 3, and the red hot is very similar to the btr stage 2, just with friendlier lift and slightly higher lsa (113 vs 112). By dropping 10 degrees of intake duration between your cam and the red hot, plus lowering the lsa, it will have more low end torque.

Or do you just want max top end hp? If so, stick with what you have. 500hp is achievable with your cam and the right driveline and other mods, but its rare, and 455/415 is pretty stout. I wouldn't change cams to get more hp. You could to trade hp for low end torque and have a better street car.
I was just looking to make a little more under the curve but keep the up top. Best of both worlds lol. Always a compromise somewhere I guess.

what could I do to get more? Heads are currently cnc’d and I have all the boltons I know of..
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Old Sep 25, 2025 | 09:58 PM
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Originally Posted by KAOS
I was just looking to make a little more under the curve but keep the up top. Best of both worlds lol. Always a compromise somewhere I guess.

what could I do to get more? Heads are currently cnc’d and I have all the boltons I know of..
lighter clutch and flywheel if a manual, lighter wheels, lightweight driveshaft, that kind of stuff. Personally I would say red hot cam if you want more low end. But you will lose some hp. Bigger duration cams with higher lsas have later intake closing points, so they will peak later. Peaking later means more horsepower simply due to the horsepower calculation of torque * rpm / 5252. The higher you carry torque past 5252 rpms, the higher the hp. Personally I prefer low end torque because I have a street car. Ill likely go with something line the truck norris cam. Race cars typically exist from 4000 (or higher) to redline so they want power up top. Its all in what you want and how you like to drive your car.
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