Rod bolt install DONE!!!

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Aug 5, 2004 | 07:32 AM

#21

z28mccrory

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From: Southern Indiana

Im not an engine guy by any means but i have asked countless engine guys if i can simply drop the pan and change the rod bolts one at a time. Was told it was not that simple and you have to resize the rods... so on and so forth...
If its truly this simple im gona have a set on the way tomorrow...

Aug 5, 2004 | 09:39 AM

#22

MyLS1Hauls

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From: Michigan

Quote:

Originally Posted by z28mccrory

Was told it was not that simple and you have to resize the rods... so on and so forth...
If its truly this simple im gona have a set on the way tomorrow...

You cant resize LS1 rods like you can SBC rods...the rods are different and allow you to just replace the bolts...thats what my previous post was about. When resizing the rods, you have to machine the mating surfaces...since an LS1 rod is fracture split and this locates the rod cap, you cant do that. SBC rods actually have studs that are a press fit that locates the cap. When you install new studs, the cap location can change, hence the need for the resizing.

Aug 5, 2004 | 01:25 PM

#23

BuckeyeROC

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From: Ohio

Quote:

Originally Posted by SAM98WS6

Well again, my opinion is stock rockers are junk at even stock rpm..dont agree with thunder.

Hope it works out for you..ive seen a couple people do it...I would never..just a band aid..and not good "mechanics"
Have you dynoed to see where your power falls off?

I agree with you. The stockers are junk. I had one drop needle bearings in my motor with very few mods. Thunder said they have tried different rockers w/ the T-rex and the stockers work best. If they are the best for the cam I have, I'm not going to spend $300-$850 for ones that are less stable at 7k rpm. Until someone puts out a great LS1 rocker arm that can withstand 7k, I'm stuck with these.

No dyno's yet. Motor is still torn apart (driver side head, intake, accessories, etc). I'll post up when I get it running.

Last edited by BuckeyeROC; Aug 5, 2004 at 01:44 PM.