Is 108k miles too many for a cam install??
TECH Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 14,620
Likes: 17
From: BFE
You will have to dyno tune either of them.
I'm the "cautious" type of modder. Either of these cams are going to put a lot of stress on your rod bolts.
Is your swap going to work? Hell yes but for how long? God knows.
You can change the rod bolts for ARP's. Bolts are not expensive but changing them with the motor in car is a bit of PITA.
Personally I wouldn't run such cams without doing so.
I'm the "cautious" type of modder. Either of these cams are going to put a lot of stress on your rod bolts.
Is your swap going to work? Hell yes but for how long? God knows.
You can change the rod bolts for ARP's. Bolts are not expensive but changing them with the motor in car is a bit of PITA.
Personally I wouldn't run such cams without doing so.
I thought about putting ARP rod bolts in there and since im a might as well guy then i might as well. right? They would add a good bit of strength and would be cheap insurance. thanks for bringin it back up. Getting the oil pan off and having enough room will probably be a pita. Might just drop the motor completey and do my thang on an engine stand. I have some pretty nifty equipment to work with so it would be no prob. once i get everything in ill take a look and see which way will be best.
yeah you want to change the oil pump. I just did a cam install about 2 weeks back and i drove the car home last night parked it in the garage and it was fine, I went to start it this morning and no oil pressure. I replaced the sending unit, and it still is down to 0 the only things left are the guage and the oil pump. most likely it is the pump. I will have a new one tommorrow and get it on this weekend but I had 108k miles on my car when i installed it and did all of the above but the oil pump. go figure. I also had no signs of failure no smokeing, no noises, and now it is a jackstand queen till the new pump gets here. good luck
Dude, if the engine is running good now, and you said there was good compression on all cylinders, go for it. Theres probably plenty of life left on the short block. Like it was said, new timing chain, new oil pump, new seals and gaskets, and make sure you put in new valve stem seals while youre swapping springs. If the bottom end is still sound, no problem putting money into the top end. Also, the ARP rod bolts are a VERY good idea, since youll probably be really spinning this motor. Oh, and youl certainly need some tuning. Dont expect either of the cams to have forgivable street manners on the stock tune.
-T
-T
Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
Put it all on paper and see for yourself all the parts on top needing replacement and do the math.
Cam/valvetrain $1000 Cam - 225 Springs - 300
oil pump $130 LS6 Ported, New - 75
Double Roller $120 Rollermaster, Double Adj - 90
Gaskets/Bolts $80
Lubes/oil $50
Rockers $320 YT 1.7's, Used 1k miles - 250
Total $1700 not counting tools. Total - $1070
This doesn't change your lifters that could collapse on such high lifts, rod bolts, tired valve seats etc...... True....can't counter the lifters or the rod bolts. Valves seats will be replaced along w/entire valvetrain minus rocker arms w/in 15k miles(expected end of spring life) when aftermarket ported heads are installed.
Good luck!!
Cam/valvetrain $1000 Cam - 225 Springs - 300
oil pump $130 LS6 Ported, New - 75
Double Roller $120 Rollermaster, Double Adj - 90
Gaskets/Bolts $80
Lubes/oil $50
Rockers $320 YT 1.7's, Used 1k miles - 250
Total $1700 not counting tools. Total - $1070
This doesn't change your lifters that could collapse on such high lifts, rod bolts, tired valve seats etc...... True....can't counter the lifters or the rod bolts. Valves seats will be replaced along w/entire valvetrain minus rocker arms w/in 15k miles(expected end of spring life) when aftermarket ported heads are installed.
Good luck!!
