Anyone have a "How To" for re-assembly of the block?
Originally Posted by Toonz
Ok, I'm beginning to see the point, problem is, I'm not sure if any of the shops around here that have much LS1 experience. The shop that did the teardown and cleanup of the block has worked on a few, but I don't think they are experts by any means. Should I even try using them or ship it off to someone that knows the LS1 better? Thanks for all the advice guys.
Houston is actually closer... 10 hour drive from here.... LA is a bit further. Either way, I'm gonna make some calls tomorrow and see what can be done, my car will be running before Thunder! 
Originally Posted by Toonz
I'm using the stock crank, rods, and pistons... everything else has been replaced.
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I was told by a known sponsor align hone is not often necessay for stock LS1 blocks. Anyway, I had my main bearing bore as well as decks checked and they did not need any work ( stock main bolts ).
How DIY engine job works is you go to a machine shop and say what needs to be done. This includes clearance specs, torque specs and bolts for stress and align hone, cylinder hone specs, balancing specs and of course the parts you're using. Then you do your best to verify the clearances using plastigauge or calibers and slap it together.
Quite simple using the Helms manual, nothing surprising there beyond torque and clearance specs, but in practice you're on machine shops mercy in setting up the clearances... unless you have good calibers and are willing to iterate in case the measurements are not ok, usually they are acceptable. Though, what I've watched on this board some ls1 shops seem to leave the bearing clearances loose to play safe and thus all the posts why is my oil pressure reading 20 at idle.
Toonz, you better have the bearing clearances checked or check them carefully if you already did not. If not it is likely you need new sets of bearings and more machine work to get to proper clearances. Get the Helms manual, though ARP bolts and most other aftermarket parts do have their own procedures. Beyond checking the clearances I would proceed to put it together, but it seems you still need to do some reading and you must be able to take the hit in case it goes wrong.
How DIY engine job works is you go to a machine shop and say what needs to be done. This includes clearance specs, torque specs and bolts for stress and align hone, cylinder hone specs, balancing specs and of course the parts you're using. Then you do your best to verify the clearances using plastigauge or calibers and slap it together.
Quite simple using the Helms manual, nothing surprising there beyond torque and clearance specs, but in practice you're on machine shops mercy in setting up the clearances... unless you have good calibers and are willing to iterate in case the measurements are not ok, usually they are acceptable. Though, what I've watched on this board some ls1 shops seem to leave the bearing clearances loose to play safe and thus all the posts why is my oil pressure reading 20 at idle.
Toonz, you better have the bearing clearances checked or check them carefully if you already did not. If not it is likely you need new sets of bearings and more machine work to get to proper clearances. Get the Helms manual, though ARP bolts and most other aftermarket parts do have their own procedures. Beyond checking the clearances I would proceed to put it together, but it seems you still need to do some reading and you must be able to take the hit in case it goes wrong.
Last edited by pekkaz; Sep 7, 2004 at 06:45 AM.