Darton MID block guys inside......
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From: St. Charles, MO
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
You didn't re-check the torque on the head studs like ARP suggests after an initial engine heat cycling/warm-up. It may have very well worked if the torque was re-checked (assuming the tq was no longer the same as when you initially tq'd it on install).
The answer could be a simple as that.
I'd call Steve@Race and ask him what he thinks. He'd be a great source to ask
The answer could be a simple as that.
I'd call Steve@Race and ask him what he thinks. He'd be a great source to ask
Gonna make some calls tomorrow I'll post what I find out
Leaking head gaskets Doc,
I spotted your question while away on business.
Pull the heads. Make sure both the heads and block are perfectly flat using a machinists straight edge. True up heads or deck if necessary with as smooth a finish as possible. Clean surfaces prior to assembly with a solvent like lacquer thinner or acetone.
Use no sealer on Cometic gaskets. Torque to spec in the proper sequence using ARP lube on studs, under nuts.
Start engine and warm up to operating temperature on a short drive. Let it cool back down preferably over night. In the proper sequence, back off one nut and retorque to spec. Go to the next nut in sequence and do the same. Continue until each nut, bolt is retorqued on both heads. The gaskets will take a set in the aluminum of both block and head. This is why I recommend retorque regardless of what Cometic may say. If it were my engine, I would do this procedure once again in about a month just to be on the safe side. The Cometic MID specific gasket is the only gasket recommended with the MID sleeves for street strip use. Race only engines can use copper gaskets with stainless steel orings in the sleeves.
If your engine (any engine) detonates under nitrous you will probably have the coolant problem regardless. Make certain the mixture is rich enough with timing backed off under nitrous to prevent detonation. Heads will lift under detonation even with racing iron blocks, thick deck heads and high strength half inch bolts.
I spotted your question while away on business.
Pull the heads. Make sure both the heads and block are perfectly flat using a machinists straight edge. True up heads or deck if necessary with as smooth a finish as possible. Clean surfaces prior to assembly with a solvent like lacquer thinner or acetone.
Use no sealer on Cometic gaskets. Torque to spec in the proper sequence using ARP lube on studs, under nuts.
Start engine and warm up to operating temperature on a short drive. Let it cool back down preferably over night. In the proper sequence, back off one nut and retorque to spec. Go to the next nut in sequence and do the same. Continue until each nut, bolt is retorqued on both heads. The gaskets will take a set in the aluminum of both block and head. This is why I recommend retorque regardless of what Cometic may say. If it were my engine, I would do this procedure once again in about a month just to be on the safe side. The Cometic MID specific gasket is the only gasket recommended with the MID sleeves for street strip use. Race only engines can use copper gaskets with stainless steel orings in the sleeves.
If your engine (any engine) detonates under nitrous you will probably have the coolant problem regardless. Make certain the mixture is rich enough with timing backed off under nitrous to prevent detonation. Heads will lift under detonation even with racing iron blocks, thick deck heads and high strength half inch bolts.
Originally Posted by DOC OTIS
Need to know what head gaskets, studs/bolts, and tq specs you guys are using/running?
Ive got probally 2000 miles on my setup and just started dialing the n2o in and ran into a problem. On the bottle it was shooting coolant out the overflow. Did a leakdown test on it and both sides were leaking. Not sure if its a block problem? head gaskets? studs?
Im am using .053 Cometic's that are made for the Darton MID blocks and used permatex adhesive on the gaskets per MTI's instructions. The block is studded and I torqued the studs too 75 foot pounds.
Really curious what others are running and what is holding up. Ive got another set of Cometic's but a little leary of trying them again.
Ive got probally 2000 miles on my setup and just started dialing the n2o in and ran into a problem. On the bottle it was shooting coolant out the overflow. Did a leakdown test on it and both sides were leaking. Not sure if its a block problem? head gaskets? studs?
Im am using .053 Cometic's that are made for the Darton MID blocks and used permatex adhesive on the gaskets per MTI's instructions. The block is studded and I torqued the studs too 75 foot pounds.
Really curious what others are running and what is holding up. Ive got another set of Cometic's but a little leary of trying them again.
__________________
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
Steve Demirjian
Race Engine Development
Oceanside, Ca.
760-630-0450
web: www.raceenginedevelopment.com/
e-mail: race-engine-development@***.net
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From: St. Charles, MO
Thanks for taking the time to reply. I will try your instructions this time and see what happens. I'll probally call you tomorrow anyway just to run a few more things by you, instead of writing a book on here. Im positive this isnt a detonation problem, the tune and fuel is very safe right now.
Man thats really weird, my motor has never had that done to it and its been hit with a 250 shot a few times on the dyno. Only thing different is that its a Iron block with ARP Main Studs and Head Studs. I have never had to retorque them, and Ive never had a radiator boil over....
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From: St. Charles, MO
if your asking me? Yes I'm running Evan's coolant, well I was until I shot it out the overflow and spilled half of it taking the heads off, what a freakin pain in the *** that stuff is, especially at $25 a gallon.
I have a leak also. N/A I made two passes at the track and after turning the car off. I started it back up after five minutes and I had a trail of white smoke and smell of antifreeze. I started it three times after that and no smoke or smell? I have yet to drive it. I don't want to cause any problems. I just don't see how it could have sealed itself back up. Oil looks great and coolant is up?
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I called Cometic and they said dry, but if you want to use sealer its ok just don't get it to thick in one spot. Also they said that there is no need to retourqe the studs, he said you can check them after it heats up if it makes you feel better but not nessary.
Originally Posted by CANNIBAL
LASTLS1, who installed your top end (heads, valvetrain, etc)?
hydfixer, thanks for that info!
hydfixer, thanks for that info!
