Rebuild Questions
12-01-2004, 02:52 PM
#22
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Originally Posted by 1984camaroz28
did u ever find the link
12-01-2004, 04:00 PM
#23
I looked on Ebay again under car and truck parts and went to engine parts and did a search with LS1 and it came up just as it had when I purchased mine and it was $729 + shipping witch it was $745 to my front door. They worked out nice for me so far and they didn't have to machine much off the rods to make the clearances right. And the pistons alone were worth the price alone.
02-17-2005, 11:08 AM
#25
Should i wait til it blows up or rebuild now? My car has about 123k on it, i'll have a cam and converter with in the next couple of months, I've been thinking about doing a rebuild in the summer, but what do you guys think, its been very well taken care of and all the mods it has right now is a lid and a cutout, it was stock when i bought it at 99k and the lid and cut out went on around 105k, how much longer do you guys think i have? its never seen the track 
and has been dyno'd 4 times and thats about as extreme as it gets. I hate to make another "over 100k" thread but i cant find an outright answer. thanks
and has been dyno'd 4 times and thats about as extreme as it gets. I hate to make another "over 100k" thread but i cant find an outright answer. thanks
02-17-2005, 11:37 AM
#26
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If you have the funds to do it, you might as well do it this summer. 
If money is tight, I'm sure it will last quite a bit longer especially if those are a lot of highway miles.
If money is tight, I'm sure it will last quite a bit longer especially if those are a lot of highway miles. 
02-17-2005, 12:13 PM
#28
Originally Posted by 98NBM_TransAm
My car has about 123k on it, i'll have a cam and converter with in the next couple of months, I've been thinking about doing a rebuild in the summer, but what do you guys think, its been very well taken care of and all the mods it has right now is a lid and a cutout, it was stock when i bought it at 99k and the lid and cut out went on around 105k, how much longer do you guys think i have? its never seen the track and has been dyno'd 4 times and thats about as extreme as it gets. I hate to make another "over 100k" thread but i cant find an outright answer. thanks
and has been dyno'd 4 times and thats about as extreme as it gets. I hate to make another "over 100k" thread but i cant find an outright answer. thanks
02-17-2005, 12:22 PM
#30
Originally Posted by 98NBM_TransAm
Never thought of that, i know the maintenance on it has been kept up well, where would i get a compression check done on it?
Here is a link on how to do a compression check on a LT1 F-body, probably wouldn't differ that much.
http://shbox.com/1/4th_gen_tech2.html#compression_test
02-17-2005, 06:34 PM
#33
IMHO, to rebuild an engine just because it has 120K on it is throwing away your $. If this car has been well taken care of as you say, and you continue to do so, it should have another 100K in it putting out power within a percent (or few) of engine with 1/2 the miles. As was stated earlier, if it's not knocking or smoking or there are other issues that point to a rebuild, keep enjoying it, stop worrying, and spend your $ on things that actually need fixing.
02-17-2005, 08:20 PM
#34
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Originally Posted by TYR_FRYR
IMHO, to rebuild an engine just because it has 120K on it is throwing away your $. If this car has been well taken care of as you say, and you continue to do so, it should have another 100K in it putting out power within a percent (or few) of engine with 1/2 the miles. As was stated earlier, if it's not knocking or smoking or there are other issues that point to a rebuild, keep enjoying it, stop worrying, and spend your $ on things that actually need fixing.
02-18-2005, 02:10 PM
#35
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I wouldn't waist the money rebuilding it yet. It could last another 100,000 if it's been taking care of. I just put a cam in my 100,000 miles car along with pulley and LS6 intake. Going in for LS6 oil pump and chain this weekend. I wouldn't be dumping money in it if I thought it was gonna blow anytime soon (I know there are surprises). There are alot of guys on here with 100k that still spray their car and take it to the track often.
02-20-2005, 03:53 PM
#36
Looks like i'll leave it for now, this is a newbie question now but ZR2877, or anyone with knowledge, im about to do a cam swap, can i access my oil pump during that sway or is there alot more work to be done to get to it, my pressure is a bit low and i wouldnt mind changing it.
02-20-2005, 04:03 PM
#37
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Yeah as said above. Get the compression test done and if it is still running good. Why bother with it. Keep modding it and having fun. But it would be a good idea to get some cash ready on the side incase it does go. Good luck with it.
04-13-2005, 02:17 PM
#38
Originally Posted by Toonz
Main, Cam, & Rod Bearings - after 118K they will need it
Rod bolts - might as well upgrade to ARP while you're there, very easy to do.
Oil Pump - time for replacement
Timing Chain - again, time for replacement
Spark Plugs
If your upgrading the cam you'll want to replace the valve springs/retainers as well. Even if it's not a big cam, 118K is a lot of wear on springs.
As for all your gaskets, TSP sells a two different head/cam swap gasket/bolt kits that have most of them. I used the basic kit which includes: GM head gaskets, GM head bolts, GM water pump gaskets, GM timing cover seal, GM front seal, GM harmonic balancer bolt. But I had to buy my rear main seal, and reuse my rear engine cover gasket (I know, NOT supposed to, but it was in good shape). I also had to buy new header gaskets, but those are cheap. I reused my valve cover gaskets as well.
I have a webshots album of pics from my rebuild, I haven't uploaded the final pics yet, but the majority of them are there. You can see them here: Toonz's Engine Rebuild
Let me know if you have any more questions.
Rod bolts - might as well upgrade to ARP while you're there, very easy to do.
Oil Pump - time for replacement
Timing Chain - again, time for replacement
Spark Plugs
If your upgrading the cam you'll want to replace the valve springs/retainers as well. Even if it's not a big cam, 118K is a lot of wear on springs.
As for all your gaskets, TSP sells a two different head/cam swap gasket/bolt kits that have most of them. I used the basic kit which includes: GM head gaskets, GM head bolts, GM water pump gaskets, GM timing cover seal, GM front seal, GM harmonic balancer bolt. But I had to buy my rear main seal, and reuse my rear engine cover gasket (I know, NOT supposed to, but it was in good shape). I also had to buy new header gaskets, but those are cheap. I reused my valve cover gaskets as well.
I have a webshots album of pics from my rebuild, I haven't uploaded the final pics yet, but the majority of them are there. You can see them here: Toonz's Engine Rebuild
Let me know if you have any more questions.
12-26-2005, 12:39 AM
#40
Depends on if there is any damage on the bearing surfaces, if not you can use it as is, if there is you need to get it machined.
Measure the bearing journals to make sure they're round (and meet manual specs), and inspect carefully, if it passes no reason you can't use as is
Measure the bearing journals to make sure they're round (and meet manual specs), and inspect carefully, if it passes no reason you can't use as is