I'm going to be pulling off my heads again over the winter and i know it won't be the last time either. I was wondering if u guys recomend the ARP head bolts or should I just stick with the factory torque-to-yield bolts i think i read about some problems with the ARP's-is this true? Thanks!

 

Run the ARPs, follow their instructions and you will not have any trouble out of 'em. Besides they simplify the torque down process big timeand are reuseable.

 

If your not boosting or spraying the crap out of it I'd just pick up some more OEM bolts.

 

I just put mine in!!!

 

ARPs all the way.

 

Sidestep, what did you use to get your deck that clean and how long did it take you?

I bought arp head studs just in case I ever have to pull my heads again or if I get a new engine.

 

Stud's are the way to go !!

 

I used WD40 and the green Scotch Brite pads. Just spray the pad and rub gently. You do not have to bare down on the pad, the WD40 breaks-down the composite gasket really fast. I then whipped the deck surface with a clean cloth to remove most of the mess followed by a little brake cleaner.

Good to go....

 

ARP head bolts for sure. We keep these in stock and ready for all head swaps.

Nate

 

Do you have to pull the studs to get the heads off in the car?

 

Side step: Is there any problems getting the heads back on with the studs? I ordered my heads from mti and they said to use the arp bolts because I was leaving the block in the car. Is this true?

 

No heads come off the studs just fine.

Nate

 

Having taken the heads off my car 5 + times, I would recommend the ARPs. Another good thing is when you do pull the heads off you dont have to clean the bolt holes. This saves a good hour or so not to mention its a PITA.

 

Correct me if I’m wrong, but shouldn’t you hone the cylinders with a torque plate/studs when you switch to ARP studs?

Because they are not torque to yield, they will cause the cylinders to slightly become out of round.

It’s been a long day, maybe I’m thinking about something else.

 

Good question !!

 

I have a C5 so no I do not... An F body motor sits further back, obviously, so I cannot say....

 

thanks nasty and sidestep. Thats just what i was told. I would like to use studs for the reasons already stated but I dont want to spend the extra$$$ if i cant us them. Also jermstyle brought up a good point any other ideas.

 

I can see wanting to check out of roundness going from bolts to studs but not bolts to bolts. Pat Musi built the engine in his '98 T/A and didnt even use torque plates because he could not see a measurable difference on honing his LS1 block. I maybe wrong on that story because it has been quite a while since I read the article, will dig it up though.

Edit- I just found it and that statement holds about the load difference between a torque plate and w/o.

 

Is this true? Anyone?

 

From what I understand it is true. A line hone is required/recommended per the ART stud I-sheet. Not for the bolts just the studs. Different torque values in different places means you should never switch back and forth. For this reason I am going with ARP bolts. A vendor can step in anytime. There are some nightmare scenarios around. I really wanted to go with studs but thats not likely now.