100K Miles, What should i do?
100K Miles, What should i do? Hey guys, my 99 SS Turned 100K miles the other day, its still running strong and everything, however im just starting to consider what i wanna do when the motor goes. I dont wanna spend tons of money, but i want the motor to be pretty strong so it can handle forced induction.
I went to Speed Inc, and they priced me out a rebuild for my motor, but i dont wanna pay $10,000, cause i cant. So what if i get there 348 shortblock, and then buy some patriot heads, and a decent sized cam, with some hooker longtubes, no cats, ORY, borla catback.
Like if i get the shortblock what else would i need to get, i know like heads, cam, headers that kind of stuff, but what else? and what do u think price wise would be better to go with?
Like i said i wanna be able to turbo this motor in the future, im not looking for massive amounts of boost either, just want something fun to drive and always wanted a turbo car. I was just wondering what if something like this would be better for me to go with
JacobK
I went to Speed Inc, and they priced me out a rebuild for my motor, but i dont wanna pay $10,000, cause i cant. So what if i get there 348 shortblock, and then buy some patriot heads, and a decent sized cam, with some hooker longtubes, no cats, ORY, borla catback.
Like if i get the shortblock what else would i need to get, i know like heads, cam, headers that kind of stuff, but what else? and what do u think price wise would be better to go with?
Like i said i wanna be able to turbo this motor in the future, im not looking for massive amounts of boost either, just want something fun to drive and always wanted a turbo car. I was just wondering what if something like this would be better for me to go with
JacobK
If youre motor is strong, why do you want a new shortblock? Just cause its got 100K dosnt mean it's at the end of it's life. Even if it needs a rebuild, chances are all it needs is a cleanup hone, new rings, bearings, bolts and gaskets.... maybe and oil pump and timing chain, maybe some new valve seals and such. You could freshen up the motor for a hell of a lot cheaper than buying a shortblock. Unless you need forged internals and lower compression for a serious blower buildup.
-T
-T
In my eyes your working backwards. I'd be more worried about buying a 12 bolt, clutch and possibly a drive shaft.
That alone can be close to 3,100.00 (without the driveshaft) without install charges and those things would probaly have to be swapped out right after you boost the motor anyhow. Might as well get them out of the way now.
That alone can be close to 3,100.00 (without the driveshaft) without install charges and those things would probaly have to be swapped out right after you boost the motor anyhow. Might as well get them out of the way now.
Originally Posted by Joe "Preachers Sheets" DIESO
In my eyes your working backwards. I'd be more worried about buying a 12 bolt, clutch and possibly a drive shaft.
That alone can be close to 3,100.00 (without the driveshaft) without install charges and those things would probaly have to be swapped out right after you boost the motor anyhow. Might as well get them out of the way now.
That alone can be close to 3,100.00 (without the driveshaft) without install charges and those things would probaly have to be swapped out right after you boost the motor anyhow. Might as well get them out of the way now.
I can Vouch for that and Anyone that lives in the area around me can tell you that I boosted my car and I went through 4 tranny's, 1 rear end, and the car still does not run. So I sold the damn supercharger. I am going to do all motor for now worry about boost when all the suspension is done. Believe me you will wish you did after you blow up your rear
Staging Lane
Joined: Aug 2002
Posts: 84
Likes: 0
From: LaPorte / Houston
100k miles and you want to re-build .. 100k is just broken in if you have been taking care of you motor. I know folks who started modding at 100k .. adding a cam , heads .. etc ..
I have 90k on my LS1 and it is still strong .. Maybe around 250k , I would think about a rebuild, but who knows. I normally sell my cars around 150-175k miles and I have never rebuilt a motor yet.
I have 90k on my LS1 and it is still strong .. Maybe around 250k , I would think about a rebuild, but who knows. I normally sell my cars around 150-175k miles and I have never rebuilt a motor yet.
FYI...most LS1/LS6 engines are still breaking in up to 40K. If you dyno at 10K/20K/30K/40K with the same set up, almost always you will continually see an increase in power as the engine continues to "break in".
100K on a well maintained LS1 is nothing. These engines are built like tanks.
If you are really worried, do a compression test before you start modding.
100K on a well maintained LS1 is nothing. These engines are built like tanks.
If you are really worried, do a compression test before you start modding.
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well see i bought the car with 80K on it, and i know the trans needs to be rebuilt and im doin that soon, but i mean i think the car was taken care of, it drive great and runs like a champ. i didnt know these motors are that good, cause my old LT1 ran like **** at around 110K
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TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
From: Red Stick, LA
To go faster, worry about chassis and driveline. My first car, I built a strong 350 and my ET's were bad due to a bad 60ft.
I imagine your engine will last many more miles (not to say you shouldn't prepare for a rebuild).
An engine running poorly usually means emissions/induction/exhaust problems before it means new engine (though not always).
Other issues may be affecting your tranny (but I usually expect an auto to expire in the 100k-140k range.)
Good Luck!
I imagine your engine will last many more miles (not to say you shouldn't prepare for a rebuild).
An engine running poorly usually means emissions/induction/exhaust problems before it means new engine (though not always).
Other issues may be affecting your tranny (but I usually expect an auto to expire in the 100k-140k range.)
Good Luck!
TECH Apprentice
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 356
Likes: 0
From: Texas
I saw post just a few days ago on another forum about some guy doing a pretty stout heads/cam package on his ~120K mile LS1. He mentioned the bores looked good on his block. Another guy recently posted about a 150K mile service or mod he is doing on a LS1 and he said that one looked clean internally as well.
Best advice I think, put some money aside just incase....and keep driving it!!!
Todd
Best advice I think, put some money aside just incase....and keep driving it!!!
Todd
Launching!
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 233
Likes: 0
From: Dallas Texas
70K on my 99 and I just changed Cams (228/232 588/598 112 +2lsa comp cams) and added headers (pacesetter LT), Valve springs (918s) , retainers (comp cams). Runs Strong, but I do have my worries about the rear end. I would bet the rear will go ahead and die in the next 5-10K. 
but other than that I plan to go for at least 150K before looking at the rebuild option (I Hope anyway).
but other than that I plan to go for at least 150K before looking at the rebuild option (I Hope anyway). TECH Enthusiast
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 659
Likes: 0
From: Red Stick, LA
If a rear is going to go, it will do it at the track with sticky tires!
I have the same rear in my monte and it has 185K on it. Of course it lived a modest life until I got it. Not too many launches on the MH's
I have the same rear in my monte and it has 185K on it. Of course it lived a modest life until I got it. Not too many launches on the MH's
I currently have 170K on my 2000 Z28.
Had a built LS6 put in @ 150K.
Started out just doing a cam swap but the guy busted some bearings putting it in which resulted in LOW oil pressure.
Anyway, did the LS6 block,intake and a small cam TR220 / .553 @112+4.
Car runs great. ( for a daily driver).
To echo what everyone else is saying. These LS1's are pretty much bullet proof.
Good luck.
Had a built LS6 put in @ 150K.
Started out just doing a cam swap but the guy busted some bearings putting it in which resulted in LOW oil pressure.
Anyway, did the LS6 block,intake and a small cam TR220 / .553 @112+4.
Car runs great. ( for a daily driver).
To echo what everyone else is saying. These LS1's are pretty much bullet proof.
Good luck.