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Question on port-matching intake to heads

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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 01:25 PM
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Default Question on port-matching intake to heads

I just got my FAST intake today, and would like to get to work port-matching the intake ports. But how can I do that without getting plastic shavings down in the intake ports of the heads? Obviously, in my case, the heads are still on the car. I know there are a bunch of people out there that have done this. How did you do it?
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 01:36 PM
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cardboard Template of the heads.
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 01:57 PM
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 02:15 PM
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Here is what we did...

I unbolted the intake pieces and then took paper and cut it out the length of the head,I taped it down and squared it up.Then we shaded each individual port,after that I cut out each port and siliconed the paper to the bottom of the intake and bolted just the lower 1/2 of the intake to the heads and let the silicone setup on the intake.We then took the lower part of the intake off the heads very carefully and the paper was stuck to the bottom of the intake showing u the exact way to port each runner.

It took 12HRS total to port it and clean up the upper intake flash,we then lined up the lower intake and it was a perfect match.I smoothed it with 100/320/600 until it looked good,then glued the pieces back together and let it set up for a few hrs and bolted it on the car.

I picked up .16 in ET and 2.1MPH going from the LS6/PTB to my ported LSX/90 Combo.I'm VERY happy with the results and it has performed flawlessly on my car.
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 02:29 PM
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Great info guys, thanks alot.
Sorry if it seemed like a simple task, but with a $750 intake, I don't want to make ANY mistakes!
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 04:57 PM
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I stuffed the intake ports with toilet paper, except for the opening, and matched up the openings. I did this by leaving the lower 2 pieces of the intake together, then stacked alot of washers on the supplied bolts from FAST. I snugged them up and ported away. Once the openings were matched, I removed it and did the clean up to get it all to match. I then finished with the sand paper like stated above. Be sure and vacum the ports before you remove the TP.
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 05:41 PM
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Did you guys touch the top half of the intake at all? I don't see many imperfections at all that look like they could hurt airflow significantly.
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 05:43 PM
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i had TEA do mine
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 09:17 PM
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The top half of mine needed no porting. I left it alone.
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 09:28 PM
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Did you guys remove the protrusion on the bottom side of the runners?
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Old Dec 28, 2004 | 10:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Phil99vette
Did you guys remove the protrusion on the bottom side of the runners?
Yes. It's all one smooth path now.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 12:08 AM
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Remove that,I talked to Wilson and they told my to port those out,we tapered mine.U wanna smooth the top too,there is alot of casting knots and lines,bumps in the upper 1/2.

I used 100/320/600 grit to finish it up...

I remove my intake into 3 sections and just re-siliconed it,no leaks and my port job was dead on using the paper to the head method,It matched perfectly once I matted it to the intake.

Last edited by JS; Dec 29, 2004 at 04:17 PM.
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 02:35 PM
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Don't ever let anyone say this isn't work LOL
I ust spent 3 hours just doing two runners with just 120 and 220 grit paper. I can see I'll not be able to get every little spot where the sanding drum bumped, but it should be pretty good none the less...
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Old Dec 29, 2004 | 04:19 PM
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I told u it takes time Took us 12 hrs to do the intake (tootsie roll) and another 2 hrs finish 100/320/600 sanding for final install.

Its worth it.....
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 02:15 AM
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Did you guys smooth out the Throtle Body opening also?
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