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Proper valve spring/camshaft break in?

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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 07:55 PM
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Default Proper valve spring/camshaft break in?

I am going to install new patriot gold dual valve spring kit, tr224 camshaft, pushrods, ASP pulley, and ported oil pump this come spring. My father is doing it at his auto repair shop and I am giving him the ls1howto.com guide as well. Anyways whats the proper procedure for breaking in the new valvesprings and cam? Any hints, tips, and suggestions about the install and aftermath is greatly apperciated and what I am too expect. Thanks
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 08:45 PM
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Roller cams don't need to be broke in like a flat tappet cam. Basically cover the cam with eng oil and install it. For the valve spring I believe it is recommended to heat cycle the springs a few times before reving the engine. After that you will want to let the springs warmup before driving the car(high rpm) each time you start it. Stronger valve springs are brittle when cold.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:08 PM
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What's heat cycling? How many miles should I be doing all this?
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:16 PM
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Let the car warm up to operating temp and shut it off. That's heat cycling.
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:24 PM
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ohh so when I first start up my car after the install, warm it up to full running temp, shut off, cool down, repeat a few times before even reving the car up at all?
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 09:26 PM
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after my H/C i did about 6 heat cycles.... drove the car for 20 min. a day and keep it under 3K rpm... then after the break in... i wait till full temp before i rev over 3K....
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Old Jan 6, 2005 | 11:21 PM
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What do you do if the garage is installing cam, springs,rockers,etc and they will be dyno tuning after install, where they do take it to redline.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 12:27 AM
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After installing my cam, we revved the engine up to 4k and held it there for like a minute.

Not even ten minutes later we pegged the speedo.

That's goes to teach you something right there. TSP 231/237 w/ PRC gold duals. Car's been running fine now after 1000 miles, and I rarely wait until operating temp to go high up in the rpms.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 12:45 AM
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Originally Posted by 5POINT7
After installing my cam, we revved the engine up to 4k and held it there for like a minute.

Not even ten minutes later we pegged the speedo.

That's goes to teach you something right there. TSP 231/237 w/ PRC gold duals. Car's been running fine now after 1000 miles, and I rarely wait until operating temp to go high up in the rpms.
put some more miles on it then come back. seriously. i want to know if all this "proper break-in" and "warm-up" is all from back in the old days of racing.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 07:55 AM
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Originally Posted by 5POINT7
After installing my cam, we revved the engine up to 4k and held it there for like a minute.

Not even ten minutes later we pegged the speedo.

That's goes to teach you something right there. TSP 231/237 w/ PRC gold duals. Car's been running fine now after 1000 miles, and I rarely wait until operating temp to go high up in the rpms.
no heat cycling? why risk it? i just did a few heat cycles on my dual springs after my cam install just in case, better safe than sorry.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 09:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Turo
no heat cycling? why risk it? i just did a few heat cycles on my dual springs after my cam install just in case, better safe than sorry.
Well I had a minor hand during the install. For the most part, the kid that did the cam install (17 yrs old, btw) said no worries...it'll be fine. And after 10+ LS1 cam installs, I'll believe him.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 03:36 PM
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Originally Posted by 5POINT7
Well I had a minor hand during the install. For the most part, the kid that did the cam install (17 yrs old, btw) said no worries...it'll be fine. And after 10+ LS1 cam installs, I'll believe him.
You aren't the first one to say that they beat on their springs right away, but I'd still opt for better safe than sorry myself. I Cycled mine a few times just for the piece of mind.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 03:45 PM
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There is no heat cycling of springs. . period. Springs are shootpeened and heat treated before they leave the mfg. Your warming of the engine does nothing.. . .Period. . .Nada....This comes from the engineering department of Associated. What is important is to get the engine oil temp up to operating temp before you put your right foot to the floor. The hardest thing on an engine is reving it when it is not up to operating temp.

So make sure engine is up to temp then have at it.

Chris
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 03:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Cstraub
... period. Springs are shootpeened and heat treated before they leave the mfg...
What the hell is a shootpeen? Educate me please.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 03:57 PM
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Shootpeening is a stress relieving process where a media is blasted at the part to reduce stress.

Chris
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 04:07 PM
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when i contacted TSP i was told to heat cycle them 3 times and i should be fine, and thats what i'm going to do.
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 05:16 PM
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Originally Posted by LSONE
when i contacted TSP i was told to heat cycle them 3 times and i should be fine, and thats what i'm going to do.
Your choice but it's a total waste of time.

Ed
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Old Jan 7, 2005 | 05:30 PM
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After reading some good opinions on both sides, here is what I've concluded. It is your engine and your $$$$ for repairs. I am on the 3rd heat cycle after a 231/237 / comp 918's install. I'd rather be safe than sorry. Plus my car sits all winter in the garage anyway so I don't really mind wasting the time.
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