Taphee6

iTrader: (2)

Has anyone used a 6.0 L crank in a stock alum block. Any issues? Please let me know.

Lesrace82

iTrader: (8)

I was wondering this also. Is it just as strong as the 5.7 stock crank? Just a little heavier?

NLang

iTrader: (12)

Just a little heavier...

Bryan@LME

iTrader: (4)

You need to watch for the flange on the back of the crank. Some truck cranks have a thicker flange that will cause alignment issues with starter, converter... It is easy to see the differance. One is about a 1/2" wider.

Another_User

Is the 6.0 crank an inexpensive option for a slight stroke increase? And would you need the 6.0 rods too?

Brains

iTrader: (7)

6.0 crank is the same stroke as a 5.7 crank (3.622"). If anyone wants one, I have one sitting in the garage, PM me

NLang

iTrader: (12)

The 5.3, 5.7, and 6.0 share the same crank (same casting numbers), only the 6.0 isn't drilled. It's probably a lb or so heavier-the single difference.

EDIT: You nailed it before I clicked post

goober35

iTrader: (1)

Not to mention that that lb is in the center of the crank. Is it worth the swap if the motor is out of the car? This will depend if you are going with Forged parts. If you get parts that weight more that stock than ya i would say it is worth it. Sence it could save you $200 at the mechine shop.

Country Boy

iTrader: (24)

NoseUp and goober are both right. I have one in my LS6 block with no problems.

Another_User

Oh, well that sucks. I forgot, they are all-bore. Can we use a 6.0 block and pistons with 5.7 crank and rods?

Brains

iTrader: (7)

Keep in mind, as Bryan @ LME mentioned -- some 6L cranks have the flexplate mounting flange sitting farther back than the 5.7L cranks, to fit the 4L80e... You'd need the appropriate starter to match, and it won't fit with your 4L60e. Its perfect for folks going with a TH400 or 4L80e though.