Rollmaster double roller timing chain set users, I have a question.
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From: Houston, TX
Rollmaster double roller timing chain set users, I have a question. When you installed the timing cover, did it feel like it didnt seat flush? As I was reassembling everything back, the timing cover felt like it didnt seat completely flush. I assume its because the timing set is now a double roller and the oil pump is shimmed out. I dont think there are any moving parts that would cause the timing cover not to seat flush, but do you think I'll be ok?
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Did ya'll reuse the stock bolts for the oil pump or the new ones that came with the timing set?
I now use the stock ones......I found that the ones that came with the timing set tended to snap off when torqued
you need to go back and check because NOTHING should touch anything.....
I just put my long block together this weekend.
I got the roll master AND a high volume blue print pump from SLP.
Here is the interesting thing. The SLP pump stands out as tall as the stock pump with the spacers. After measuring I decided to leave the spacer out and run the SLP pump. This is where it gets interesting.
The SLP pump comes with instructions to slightly grind the back of the timing cover to clear the pump to cover issue. It does not take much, but if it was not ground down the cover would hit the pump and it won't seal right.
I test fit, then took a minimal amount of until I had about .020" clearance. The timing chain clears EXACTLY as it would have with the stock pump and spacers.
I used the ROLL MASTER grade 8 bolts and washer, but found they were basically the same length as the stockers.
So, my answer to you would be to grind a bit out of the cover and rock on!
I got the roll master AND a high volume blue print pump from SLP.
Here is the interesting thing. The SLP pump stands out as tall as the stock pump with the spacers. After measuring I decided to leave the spacer out and run the SLP pump. This is where it gets interesting.
The SLP pump comes with instructions to slightly grind the back of the timing cover to clear the pump to cover issue. It does not take much, but if it was not ground down the cover would hit the pump and it won't seal right.
I test fit, then took a minimal amount of until I had about .020" clearance. The timing chain clears EXACTLY as it would have with the stock pump and spacers.
I used the ROLL MASTER grade 8 bolts and washer, but found they were basically the same length as the stockers.
So, my answer to you would be to grind a bit out of the cover and rock on!
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I now use the stock ones......I found that the ones that came with the timing set tended to snap off when torqued
Originally Posted by Dragaholic
Do you have any pics of where you had to grind?
No pics, but this is a simple procedure.
If you look at the back of the cover you will see the lip the front main seal sits in. You have to actually grind the engine side of that lip to about 1/2 its current thickness. This is easily and quickly done with a grinder. Use a fine grade disc to avoid taking too much material too fast.
A quick easy way to test fit is to spray some lithium lube on the front of the oil pump. Clean the cover up (without the seal in if possible), and mock it in place with the gasket. Torque the bolts down so you get the full compression of the gasket.
Take it back off and look for any greese transfer on the inside of the timing cover. If it is clean, you are good to go.
