Katech rod bolts installed.
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From: Houston, TX
Katech rod bolts installed. Spent the last few days installing the new cam, goodies, and Katech rod bolts. They were the same length and from the feel of it, they were the same weight. I didnt verify though, as I dont have a scale. The only difference I did find which I hope doesnt cause any problems is that it was .024" thicker. I didnt stretch the bolts as I was told wasnt necessary from one of the guys at Katech, I did toque them down to 50 ft. lbs. though as instructed. I verified to see what the stock ones were torque down to by setting the torque wrench to 50 and removed them. It clicked and started getting loose. So I assume they were 50 ft. lbs. Everything went pretty smoothly, but I did have to lift the engine up. I didnt think I would have to since I had the BMR k-member, but I certainly did. I put the pan back on, put a few bolts in, jacked it up, slide the bolts back in the motor mounts and rested the it on the k-member mounts. That too wasnt enough, so I jacked it up slightly from the crank pulley. It was for a short period, hopefully it didnt cause any issues. I paid $146 shipped for the Katech rod bolts, I hope they were worth it. No resizing as Katech says there is no need to with their bolts. I hope to see 7k rpm shift points and no issues. I will keep everyone updated. Thanks.
Are these rod bolts supposed to be better than the ARP Pro Rod bolts? I still have the ARP's at home, just been too lazy to install them, along with the new timing chain, oil pump and fuel pump 
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From: Out on the farm in Central IL
Just installed mine too over the weekend. I did this at the same time as the K Member so it was easy. Also very easy to get at the bolt for the pickup tube with the pan off. I wish it was that easy on a cam swap.
Like stated above, the bolts are avery close if not identical match to the stockers. One at a time and torque to 50. I spunt the crank several times and rechecked the torque on each rotation.
Like stated above, the bolts are avery close if not identical match to the stockers. One at a time and torque to 50. I spunt the crank several times and rechecked the torque on each rotation.
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From: Houston, TX
Yes, it is very possible to do in the car. If you plan on doing a k-member, this would be a good time to upgrade the rod bolts. If you already have a tubular k-member, then it will easier than if you were working with a stocker. My entire suspension stayed in place. Just had to lift the engine up a bit.
I couldnt tell you if they are better than the ARPs, but I went with the Katechs because they are the same length and weight as the stockers and I would have less chance of having any distortion.
I too did them one at a time with a torque setting of 50, then spun it over several times and double checked all the bolts. I didnt have a problem getting the nut off for the pickup tube towards the back, gotta love those gear wrenches.
I couldnt tell you if they are better than the ARPs, but I went with the Katechs because they are the same length and weight as the stockers and I would have less chance of having any distortion.
I too did them one at a time with a torque setting of 50, then spun it over several times and double checked all the bolts. I didnt have a problem getting the nut off for the pickup tube towards the back, gotta love those gear wrenches.
