are these the bolts i need?

http://store.summitracing.com/defaul...=egnsearch.asp

i see 2 listings, this and a 12 point and dont know what the difference is really. i was gonna get head bolts but told that they bottom out. let me know if this is what i want, and if any sponsors carry it becuase im having a hard time finding it.

 

also, do i need to get the assembly lube with this?

 

I guess it's just a matter of preference...they come with assembly lube, you need to use it to get correct torque readings.

 

how hard is it to install the studs? do the studs have to be torqued and then the nuts? can you explain how this is done for me please? and who had the best prices?

 

i bought the 6pt studs from TR and it came with moly lube and instructions.

 

ok, thanks

 

thunder racing has them, most of the other sponsors should too

 

The studs are easy to install, but I suggest you chase the threads in the block first. You only torque the studs finger tight. The nuts are torqued according to the instructions that come with them, not according to GM's TTY specs. I think it was 70 ft-lbs, but please double check as I could be remembering wrong. I got mine from Thunder Racing also.

 

ok thanks, if you guys dont mind, can you check out my other post about gaskets needed, i have got a lot of different part numbers and i wanna make sure its all right before i order. thanks

 

Does anyone have any problems with getting there heads on with the motor still in the car? I was just concerned that there would not be enough room with the studs sticking up to get the heads on and off.

 

The ARP studs are broached on the end to accept a hex key. This allows you to put the studs in or take them out with the heads in place.

 

Wouldn't that defeat the purpose of putting studs in, if you have to take them out to get the heads on? I maybe need to clarify. If the studs are in the block sticking out is there enough room to put the heads on?

 

"Allow" is more like "may" it does not infer "must" or "shall."

With the hex in the stud you can easily take them out if you need to. A nice touch if you ask me..oh wait, you didn't.

 

Well, I tried this. Note that I have 1 3/4" QTP headers so my room and the amount my exhaust will drop is nill.

I did NOT have close to enough room to get the heads on the car with the studs in. I didn't even have enough room to get the heads on with the top row of studs in. I had to put the heads on and use every single stud like a bolt, and then like a nut on a stud. So pretty much I'm installing every one twice. Not to mention they provide me with no advantage to using them when changing heads since I'd have to pull the studs out. So I'm just going to use ARP head bolts.

 

Definitely the way to go. They're reuseable and you just follow the factory sequence, but can ditch the torque angle spec.

 

The benifit in studs is the provide a more even clamping force.