my first cam change????
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Joined: Jun 2002
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Originally Posted by GuitsBoy
This is the first time ive heard the JPR tool being called a piece of crap. May I ask the reason?
Seriously, on certain model years, it simply doesn't work. If you do a search, you'll find plenty of complaints about the JPR Tool. Most people either make their own, or use pen magnets. I bought the JPR Tool, and did everything but walk on water to make it work, but no go. It simply wouldn't slide home on one side. I ended up using pen magnets. A total waste of $80. Some guys with certain model years have had success with it, and others haven't. In my eyes, it is crap. I'm just trying to save someone from making the same mistake.
TECH Addict
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 2,428
Likes: 0
From: Las Vegas, NV
I think this was mentioned, but if you follow jmx's LS1howto.com article exactly, you can't go wrong. It's an amazing document, and totally accurate. If it wasn't for that article I don't think I ever would have attempted a cam change, but the way Jon explained everything, in great detail, with such clear photographs, gave me the courage to attempt it. This man deserves the LS1 Nobel Prize, or at least a lot of credit.
Originally Posted by Black Z/28
I did mine last October (using LS1Howto). I thought the spring change was the most tedious/difficult part. I highly recommend the crane spring tool. This thing was awesome and you get to do 2 springs at a time. It's a little pricey but well worth it if you expect to do more than 1 spring change in your car's life: (I've done 2 already with it)
We had to beat the hell out of my crank pulley bolt to get it loose. The pulley itself wasn't bad to get off, and the 5/6" bar stock trick worked out great for me. Turn the cam over a few times and listen to make sure no lifters drop down, pull the cam, insert the bars in the oil galleys and put in your new bumpstick! If you're changing timing chains and pumps, which I highly recommend while you're there, loosen every bolt but the rear 2 on the pan and stuff rags in the pan, so you don't lose the pickup tube 10mm bolts when you remove them... Now you can pull the pump straight off and replace the crank sproket! =)
Why don't you guys just remove the rockers when doing a cam swap? Sure may be overall quicker to use JPR tool or whatever, but it only adds about 1/2 hr to my install to remove all the rockers, and pull the pushrods out. That makes sure nothing drops down. Just a thought.
Originally Posted by Michael Ozorowsky
Why don't you guys just remove the rockers when doing a cam swap? Sure may be overall quicker to use JPR tool or whatever, but it only adds about 1/2 hr to my install to remove all the rockers, and pull the pushrods out. That makes sure nothing drops down. Just a thought.
You have to anyway to use the tool. It just keeps the lifters from dropping. Otherwise you'd have to "russian roulette" it, pen magnet, or remove the heads.... 
Originally Posted by mr2guru
You have to anyway to use the tool. It just keeps the lifters from dropping. Otherwise you'd have to "russian roulette" it, pen magnet, or remove the heads.... Actually, the reason you have to remove the rockers anyway is because if you dont the lifters would still be pressed against the cam lobes and youd never be able to pull the cam out, and even if you could pull it out, a lifter would be shot downward with the force of the spring's seat pressure. The weight of the pushrods is, while nil compared to the force of the springs, an additional factor that could make you drop a lifter into the oil pan.EDIT: Nevermind... I re-read and i think i got confused by your reply. You were explaining the JPR tool keeping the lifters up, not that the act of not removing the rockers = russian roulette. My bad.