bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

I've got all the bolt ons and AS stage 2 5.3L heads. I just ordered a Comp 224/228 .581/.588 112+2, but really wanted a 228/228 .588/.588 112+2. How much HP am I leaving on the table? I have a potential coil bind and p/v issues.

bigdsz

iTrader: (1)

Come on guys

MrDude_1

iTrader: (4)

8hp. 50hp. 80hp. -2hp.

we have no way of knowing from what you said... it would be a total guess, based on alot of assumptions.....

CH3NO2

cam specs dont equal hp, it has to work as a system, as your car sits, with good tuning you are bound to make more hp with the cam you bought then with the larger cam untuned. the engine is a system and the parts have to work together, and one part that is great with maybe a given head, with a given stall and a certain length header, could be totally wrong for another setup. thats why pro racers dyno tuned every peice, for example the cam, then they take it out grind another dyno tune it, and keep going until its perfect. so dont second guess yourself thinking you should have gone with part a instead of b. cause unless you know ever part u are gonna buy in the future it doesnt matter neways, and suspension is key. my friends LT1 with 180k miles, runs 11.'s on motor cam only, stock heads hell he even has the factory air box, runs 10.70's on spray. tuned to make only 321rwhp on motor, but he has a 9" with a spool, 28" tall slick and QA1's front and rear and that car cuts some mean 60'ers

u will drive yourself crazy always wondering what u should have done....just make what you have work together and u will have a fast fast car

zo6vetteman2003

iTrader: (1)

I agree, there is really no way of knowing for sure unless you compare two identical vehicles with the same mods. and the exact same tuning. Looking at the two cam specs. there really isn't that much difference after spending all that time to get it done. Hopefully I made you feel alittle better