hey guys a while ago i put in a double timing chain with the spacers then i put everything back together. WEll i used a new stock crank bolt and i fear it might have been to short becasue of the spacers for the chain, and now i started to get a littel squeky noice coming from the engine bay so i think the bolt might have loosen up. Well anyways i wanted to know if there was a longer bolt to remedy this, and how would i know how much longer it needs to be, or are they all the same, and where do i get it??

 

M16 x 2.0 Pitch x 120mm I believe are the specs of the longer bolt. Got mine at NAPA.

 

NAPA??? damn cool hey plp might talk crap about napa but you sure find a lot of uncomong things there. cool thanks for the info.

 

make shure you use a washer

 

"The bolt you need is a 16mm / 2.0 thread pitch and 120mm in length (the head of this bolt is 24mm). This bolt can be purchased from NAPA as P/N 2801-225. Price is $5.39. Also purchase 2 washers P/N 8071-035B. Two washers stacked works better than just one.

VERY IMPORTANT: Aditionally, if you don’t have a 24mm 6 point 1/2" drive socket; go buy one. DON’T use a 12 point socket. It does not grab enough meat on the bolt head, and may round off the head as you are trying to remove the ‘Super Tight’ crank bolt. If this happens; YOU WILL have more problems than you would ever want to deal with!!

Sears sells this socket in a deep-well version made for an impact wrench. This is the best one to get. The impact socket is much stronger than a regular socket and will not distort. "

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That was copied from another post on 11-06-04; not sure of the author.

 

wait but am i supose to use the 2 washers to take up extra room?? cuase i need the longer bolt casue of the spacers i put on for the double timing chain so i need the extra room.

 

????????? anybody??

 

This is new to me, the spacers aren't all that thick because of cover clearance. Why the need for a longer pulley bolt when there's plenty of thread/depth on the factory bolt? Have I missed something?

 

buy a reusable ARP damper bolt for 29$ and torque to 190ft#'s with 271 loctite, no worries

 

when the balancer sits all the way on the crank where it should

 

The spacers are to move the oil pump out a bit to clear the timing chain and its gear.
They do not push the crank pulley out too.
The crank pulley stays in the same position.
Putting a longer bolt in there will do nothing for you.

 

i know it doesnt mobe the crank out anymore but the spacers are taking an extra centimeter wich means teh oil pump sits out an extra centimeter meaning the pulley doesn't go in as far as it used to before. if not why would sponsors sell the longer bolt?

 

Oil pump spacers move pump out to clear timing chain.
Oil pump floats on crank drive, pulley still bottoms against timing gear boss on crankshaft. Longer bolt is used to take advantage of virgin threads in crank

 

the arp bolt is reusable?? also it is a 27mm 12pt socket for the arp bolt that i got...i ended up having to buy a 24mm to get old off and a 27mm to get new on...that upset me a little bit

 

The longer bolts that most people talk about are only for pulling the balancer onto the crank snout, then you use a normal GM crank bolt to tighten it down.

 

oooooooo ok i thought that i needed a longer bolt casue when i installed the stoker it din't even turned half way trough before it was as tight as could go, it felt like the bolt varely cought thread.

 

yeah i had to hammer the pulley on until i could get a good 2-3 turns on the bolt...you really don't want to strip the crank

 

yeah...um...proper way to seat crank...with gm bolt...

Seat your pulley back onto the snout of the crankshaft as best you can by hand. If you purchased a longer crank bolt, start threading this in now and pull the pulley on about a 1/4 or 1/2 an inch and remove the longer bolt. Use your old stock crank pulley bolt to pull the pulley onto the crankshaft(or use a long threaded rod and a nut and washer combo-My personal favorite...less possibility or stripping threads on crank snout....and you can put in as long of one as you want and grab ALL the threads instead of just the first couple until it gets on further) until the bolt seems to get impossible to turn. Grab your biggest torque wrench and attempt to torque that bolt down to 240lbft. Now, break the bolt free and remove it.

Take your NEW crank pulley bolt and thread it in all the way by hand. Torque this bolt to 37lbft. Now, we need to stretch the bolt into place. Get your breaker bar and pipe extension, and try to turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, keeping in mind the engine will be trying to turn some and those are degrees you can't count....so mark the bolt with a maker and do the same on the crank pulley....helps you find real 140*


and if you are doing a cam change and you have pulled off the timing cover...leave those bolts until after you have the pulley seated...you can start them...just dont tighten them down until th epulley is all the way done...allows it to center properly on the seal

 

wai wait wait pls excuse my noobness but by 140* you don't mean 140* with a torque angle meter do you cause if so all i can say is damnnnnn

 

ZUMBOXL is correct " turn the bolt 140degrees past where it is at now, ....so mark the bolt with a maker and do the same on the crank pulley....pull 140 deg. >not lbs.
if stdard - put in gear , if a4 make a tool to hold flywheel


REmove the small 2 in round plug on bottom of bellhouseing insert the home maded tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place
PS: if THE DRAWING DOES NOT SHOW UP CORRECT ,it should be about 2 in wide all the way down

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