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Replacing connecting rod, need help

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Old 03-16-2005, 10:25 AM
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Question Replacing connecting rod, need help

Trying to replace a connecting rod that spun a bearing, and, I can't figure out how to disconnect it from the piston. my lowly haynes book says just to take it to a shop and have them do it, but I'd prefer to just do it myself(and, I dont know any shops nearby). Anyone have any tips on how to get the pin off the rod? do I need to pony up for a press or what ? Thanks
Old 03-16-2005, 10:32 AM
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If it is the stock semifloating pin it will need to be pressed off
Old 03-16-2005, 11:21 AM
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Is that something i could do at home with a simple press from sears or seomthing ? I assume the connecting rod is what its pressed on so, just support that and push it out ?
Old 03-16-2005, 11:27 AM
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Save yourself a lot of time and heartache...take it to a machine shop and pay them to do it for you. The rod end must be heated to allow the pin to slide out and the piston must be supported in a special jig so that it doesn't get dinged when the pin is pressed out. There are Kent-Moore tools available that will enable you to so this job yourself but unless you are going into the piston replacement business you're better off letting a professional do the job for you...
Old 03-16-2005, 05:19 PM
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You can't just replace one. you have to do them all.
Old 03-16-2005, 10:52 PM
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Sure you can do one as long as the rest are ok. The main thing hear is what does the crank look like that it came off of, are you using the same crank. If it is out of factory spec and you put another rod on you will be back hear posting another thread complaning of oil pressure issues. Where are all the shavings as well. Your to the point you might as well redo your shortblock if you want it to last at all.
Old 03-17-2005, 02:30 AM
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Originally Posted by MAC4264
Sure you can do one as long as the rest are ok. The main thing hear is what does the crank look like that it came off of, are you using the same crank. If it is out of factory spec and you put another rod on you will be back hear posting another thread complaning of oil pressure issues. Where are all the shavings as well. Your to the point you might as well redo your shortblock if you want it to last at all.
That is what I mean't, not that you phisically can't, but why?
Unless this is a patch job and car is for sale.
Old 03-17-2005, 07:33 AM
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Originally Posted by PREDATOR-Z
That is what I mean't, not that you phisically can't, but why?
Unless this is a patch job and car is for sale.
I spun a rod bearing . Had to get a new crank, and so replacing the connecting rod that had the spun bearing. New crank is already in, just been kinda slow about doing everything so this is the last step before sticking it back in the car.
Old 03-17-2005, 09:15 AM
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Spun one myself, #8, motor has 55K (hard miles), so I said WTH and I'm getting a longblock forged 347/5.3 heads/11.5:1 SCR/CM 228/230 112lsa
Old 03-17-2005, 11:20 AM
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You can certainly repair just the broken parts. You do not have to replace everything. There is a common mentality here that says "I want a major upgrade but I cannot justify it until something breaks". This is fine but it leaves the impression that you cannot repair a motor without a full rebuild.

If your crank is new, make sure everything is cleaned out as stated above. You have to check just as many bearing clearances with that new crank even if the other rods are not changing. There is no inherent problem with replacing a single rod. However, you are so far into the motor that other upgrades are just a few more hours of labour away.




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