I have searching on here to find out how to install these.
One person said

and from ls1howto.com

which one do I do?
thanks

 

the first one but it's not the correct torque sequence. the correct tq sequence as per arp is 50 60 70.

The second set of instructions is for factory torque to yield bolts.

Just install the studs with an allen wrench pretty snug after you clean out the threads and then slap the heads on as i mentioned above. There should be instructions in the stud kit.

Nate

 

thanks

the motor had them already on so I dont have any instructions

 

cliff notes:

factory bolts and ARP bolts take VERY DIFFRENT TQ specs.



the factory bolts take a very high TQ, and then a number of degrees to twist. this tightens the bolt so much that it streches a little... and cannot be reused.


ARP bolts take a much lower TQ spec... you just TQ them to that amount, with the proper lube, and they are reusable...


like any time you torque a bolt to a spec, you "sneek up" on the spec in steps... gradually higher until you reach the final spec.



the order to TQ the bolts in is the same for both.

 

dont forget to blow out your bolt holes in the block use a blow gun with a pipe long enough to reach the bottom if you dont you can crack the block.DONT ASK ME HOW I KNOW!

 

what do you mean


are you talking about the sequence illustrated above is the same for the arps? Or start from the center head stud and torque in a circle going clockwise.
And which lube should I use arp moly lobe?

bad0211secws6
the motor came with the studs already in

 

my ARP instructions said to torque 12 point nuts to 40, 55 and 65. Due to the expansion rate of aluminum ARP recommends final torque to be 65 ft# with moly lube, not 70.

 

i also had 12 pt nuts and i had 50 60 and 70...

Nate

 

Use the pictured torque sequence above with the 50, 60 and 70 torque spec. Let them sit over night then go back through them in sequence set at 70. The gaskets will compress a little so it may be necessary to retorque a couple times. Top row goes to 22 ft/lb. Use the arp lube to ensure correct torque readings.

 

thanks guy
these studs/nuts have been used before so do you think 70lbs will be ok?
I will be using Felpro graphite head gaskets

 

yes they will be fine.

 

yes.
as much as we like to think of metal blocks like heads as solid, they still bend and flex.
by torquing them in that order, the head seats down even and flat... notice that the bolts start on the inside and evenly pull down when you count in the order... oneside, otherside.. oneside, otherside... nice and even.
the factory has a special machine that does ALL the bolts at the exact same time.. its kinda neat to watch.


thats what you do when you dont have the offical TQ sequence for what your working on.. same idea... oneside, otherside.. starting from the center working outward.....


the lube you use changes what TQ specs you need... some things make bolts more "slippery" then others...

i would use ARP lube, and use the ARP lube specs as given by ARP.
as much as i like this board and others online, CALL ARP directly. tell them what you have, and do what THEY say... they are the only ones to take TQ specs from... its not that i dont trust anyone on here, but on somthing as critical as that, you would rather be safe then sorry.


just for future ref.
the bolt holes are "blind"
this means that they arnt open holes, they have a bottom...
if this bottom is filled with fluid, when the bolt tries to get tight, it squishes the fluid.
the fluid doesnt compress... so all this force is pushed to the block using the fluid... you may only be putting 70ft-lbs on the socket, but the bolt may be pressing 1000s of PSI with the fluid.
its enough force to crack the block.


so if you remove the studs (and you will, if you ever pull the heads off in the car) blow out the holes before re-installing the studs.

 

the TQ specs for the ARP bolts do not change with usage.

make sure the threads are clean, both the nuts and studs. this effects the TQ reading.
lube them.
run your first TQ step, then your next, then your final.
wait if possible, then recheck the final TQ... alot of people dont do that last step without problem, but its still a good idea.

 

Go back over them after they sit an hour!!

 

will do!!!
thanks guys

cant wait to get this car running, been over a fu#$@#% year

 

Anyone know how much to torque them down using motor oil? Do you place the motor oil/moly lube on the threads as well, or just the nuts and washers? I have to know this because the reason I am doing this now to a new block is because the previous owner did something wrong and cracked the block by the water jacket, possibly by torquing them down to much or by leaving liquid inside the bolt hole. thanks

 

I thought ARP recommended an extra 5-10ft-lbs. when using motor oil. I didn't trust it, and bought some moly lube instead.

For reference, the studs themselves do not need to be torqued. Only hand tight. No lube is required on the block side of the studs, just the nut side.

 

jimmy p you should not bottom stud into block. i install with a light film of moly on the stud, bottom the stud by hand, then back out 1/2 turn. this allows the load to be distributed on all threads. also use moly on nuts and washers. add 10# to final tq if you must use oil in an emergency

 

Thanks. Anyone know if ARP would sell a seperate small stud? We found out that the threads on one of the smaller studs were prety bad. Would I be ok to use a regular head bolt? Thanks

 

email them directly, they should send you several at no charge. had similar incident w/crane and they sent me a bunch of stuff just for the inconvenience. instead of packaging 16-8mmx3/8 studs for the rockers, 15 were correct, one was 8mmx7/16.